BATTLEAXE Quick Tips

[leaded50]

Difficulty with connections on each skins when build as "master-style"?
You know, it aint difficult to make it this style. When you see the FT build movies, they make each the rounded skinparts single, not direct one the internal. Thats a good reason for. When you shape the foamboard to glue the rounded shape together, when you push enough down at connection, the outer paper will meet each other fully, and will be kept together on the outside as what you see on a ready build.
If you try glue a round shaped skin direct on an internal construction , you can NEVER push it enough together to get the outside paper to meet fully, so paperpart get glued tacky first, than the foam shapes. the foampart would stick first, then paper... and that will everytime give a "crack" where outer papers dont meet each other.
Make a single round shaped part first, when glue dryed, then put it on the internal, or against other rounded skins .

(hope it was undestandable, i should made a video to show it... and will later.)

 

[BATTLEAXE]

Difficulty with connections on each skins when build as "master-style"?
You know, it aint difficult to make it this style. When you see the FT build movies, they make each the rounded skinparts single, not direct one the internal. Thats a good reason for. When you shape the foamboard to glue the rounded shape together, when you push enough down at connection, the outer paper will meet each other fully, and will be kept together on the outside as what you see on a ready build.
If you try glue a round shaped skin direct on an internal construction , you can NEVER push it enough together to get the outside paper to meet fully, so paperpart get glued tacky first, than the foam shapes. the foampart would stick first, then paper... and that will everytime give a "crack" where outer papers dont meet each other.
Make a single round shaped part first, when glue dryed, then put it on the internal, or against other rounded skins .

(hope it was undestandable, i should made a video to show it... and will later.)

Thats a good tip man. Thanks

 

[leaded50]

Thats a good tip man. Thanks

Ill try make a video showingthe difference later.. it will more easy show it

 

[Sumadartson]

Keep shape of hatches, opening surfaces, doors eg ? Yes, you can put in formers, plywood, foamstrips eg but that uses space.... an easy way is to put a good layer of 2k epoxy, or just woodglue, pla glue, eg. inside , and the part is set in correct shape till dry.
On a hatch eg, i lay a good layer of glue at inside, not totally all the way to edges, waits a few minutes to glue begin end running, and tape the part at at place where it should be. When dry it keeps it shape! You can even glue on a posterboard at inside when hold in right curbing, to make it even stronger.

Careful when you use some wood glues, not all have a water barrier and if you deside to paint after you run a chance of seperation.
If you want a quick tack while waiting for your primary glue to dry. Lay your glue on then a few drops of hot glue will give your primary glue time to dry while keeping everything form fitted.

 

[leaded50]

Careful when you use some wood glues, not all have a water barrier and if you deside to paint after you run a chance of seperation.
If you want a quick tack while waiting for your primary glue to dry. Lay your glue on then a few drops of hot glue will give your primary glue time to dry while keeping everything form fitted.

- my tip was on eg a hatch.. backside of it, that shouldnt need any paint. The point was to get the foamboard part hard enough at backside, to hold the hole eg. hatchpanel in correct shape.

 

[The Hangar]

Right now I use alot of hand tools for fabrication but I'm looking to upgrade in my new shop to power tools. What do you use, tool and brand wise, that you find works best?

The two most used power tools in my shop are the band saw and drill press.

 

[BATTLEAXE]

The two most used power tools in my shop are the band saw and drill press.

A band saw would be handy here