Guillows Piper Cherokee 140 Rc Conversion

[Citabria]

So the structure is actually warped I will give it a couple hours and see what happens.

 

[Citabria]

The left wing is mounted! I used all the tips for getting rid of wing warping on the right wing, it removed some of the warping but not all of it, I’m just gonna fly it the way it is, it may not be the best but it will probably work.

 

[TooJung2Die]

Most likely the issue is caused by the covering tissue and can easily be resolved.

That has been my experience. It is not unusual for the tissue to cause a slight warp when shrinking. Most often the warp can be be removed by twisting in the opposite direction while holding the part over a hair dryer or heat gun set on low. If the warp is more drastic then dampening the tissue first is called for. Warps will happen when the parts sit for long periods due to changes in humidity so always check before flying.

I love building rubber power to RC conversions. Build as light as you know how. Most weight saving can be found in the fuselage. Rubber power fuselages are over-engineered to withstand the torque and pull of strong rubber motors. Eliminate all parts for mounting the rubber at the tail. The nose usually has more wood than needed for a lightweight electric motor. Bulkheads can be trimmed down inside the fuselage.

I find that I only need a motor with thrust equal to half the flying weight of the airplane. The rubber power motors these airplanes are designed to fly with have even less thrust than that. My latest rubber to RC conversion was the AT-6 Texan.



Jon

 

[Citabria]

Wings, Rudder, and Elevator are mounted! The right main gear is taller than the left making more dihedral on the right, it USUALLY goes back to normal when I lift it off the ground but it sticks sometimes. I’m not the best at building balsa airplanes, I’ve only done 2 others so before my next conversion I will put a few more models behind me.

 

[Citabria]

I fixed the dihedral issue by putting some 1/16 inch balsa in the gap of the fueselage and wing now it sits normal.

 

[Citabria]

Sorry for lack of updates there is not really anything to do with it till I get the electronics in which should get here Tuesday.

 

[Citabria]

Ok so the electronics came in but the transmitter isn’t binding to it. There is a weird green thing soldered to the board which is not supposed to be there and the antenna is soldered to the green thing and there is heat shrink with an extension on the antenna all of that shouldn’t be there I wonder if that’s the problem.

 

[cyclone3350]

Ok so the electronics came in but the transmitter isn’t binding to it. There is a weird green thing soldered to the board which is not supposed to be there and the antenna is soldered to the green thing and there is heat shrink with an extension on the antenna all of that shouldn’t be there I wonder if that’s the problem.

I

Ok so the electronics came in but the transmitter isn’t binding to it. There is a weird green thing soldered to the board which is not supposed to be there and the antenna is soldered to the green thing and there is heat shrink with an extension on the antenna all of that shouldn’t be there I wonder if that’s the problem.

I like what U R doing. I hope U can get it to bind. I did a Guillows C180 years ago after the first UMX P-51 I had finally got destroyed hitting ball field light post. I used the elect's from that and for one , who has been building for decades, found this to be way more challenging than it looks. I have seen others use the Tactic micro which is comparable to what U R using and have had success. Keeping it light is the key. Good Luck and keep posting.

 

[TooJung2Die]

Ok so the electronics came in but the transmitter isn’t binding to it. There is a weird green thing soldered to the board which is not supposed to be there and the antenna is soldered to the green thing and there is heat shrink with an extension on the antenna all of that shouldn’t be there I wonder if that’s the problem.

I have the WLToys F949 brick on several airplanes. Binding is easy but a bit different than you're probably used to doing. Important: make sure you change the Rx type for the model to AFHDS in the transmitter (AFHDS-2 is default). Plug in the battery to the receiver brick. The red LED flashes. Hold down the Bind button on the transmitter and turn on the transmitter. The transmitter screen says "Binding in progress". The red LED on the receiver brick stays on solid. Turn off the transmitter. Do not unplug the battery from the receiver. Turn on the transmitter. The transmitter is bound and you are ready to fly.

Every time you disconnect the receiver battery the receiver must be bound to the transmitter again. It's no more trouble than having to turn on the transmitter twice each time you swap batteries.

Jon

 

[Citabria]

I have used this receiver before how do you hold the bind button? It’s a switch not a button and how do you change transmitter modes I didn’t know you could do that on this transmitter

 

[TooJung2Die]

I have used this receiver before how do you hold the bind button? It’s a switch not a button and how do you change transmitter modes I didn’t know you could do that on this transmitter

I don't know what transmitter you are using. I know the F949 receiver uses AFHDS which is a Flysky protocol. I assumed you were using a Flysky transmitter.

 

[Citabria]

I’m using the wltoys f949S or f949 transmitter

 

[Citabria]

I honestly don’t really know where this project is gonna go for a while. I want to finish it, but it might take a couple months longer than expected.