Hi there! :) / hot wire fuselage

[cudi]

Wow! That is just amazing!

Thx I've spent the day sanding the guy, and I've managed to upgrade my arch from 15cm to 40cm on same 4xAA rechargeable, so as you can guess I'm rapidly finding the best way to make the wing. Still not sure how to do it - styro way, or xps way or semi (styro ribs, xps cover).

 

[cudi]

Some progress - today I've managed to make the wing. A little accident has occured while sanding, so I'll have to patch up a small hole on the aileron during the covering process. There's still some work left: the attack line, sanding the wing tips and cutting out the ailerons (still trying to figure that one out ) As usual some photos:

 

[cyclone3350]

Some progress - today I've managed to make the wing. A little accident has occured while sanding, so I'll have to patch up a small hole on the aileron during the covering process. There's still some work left: the attack line, sanding the wing tips and cutting out the ailerons (still trying to figure that one out ) As usual some photos:

Looks good . I'm about to try and hot wire a thrust tube for my 007 James Bond Micro Jet .

 

[cudi]

Looks good . I'm about to try and hot wire a thrust tube for my 007 James Bond Micro Jet .

Thanks Good luck with that
I just figured a nice way to cut out those ailerons Still not sure however about those stabs I mean I'm pretty sure I'll make a spar for the wing - better get some extra weight that brake the wing in half while turning I've done that already You should what happens with a cessna 172 without a spar But I'm not sure about the stabs (do they need to be reinforced), 8 mm XPS didn't need that, but I'm new to styro so I'm not really sure. Oh - I intend to cover the whole thing with brown paper and white glue.

 

[cyclone3350]

What is the WS? I've experimented with the brown paper on some test pieces, but never built anything with it. I did find that it does add a fair amount of strength. If the total span is around 48" or less, a plywood connector in the shape of the dihedral to bond the wing together might be all U need. The tail feathers on this Keil Kraft Cub is DTFB, paper steamed off, & Mod Podge tissue covered. I found this to be plenty stiff. I did add a 3/16" balsa strip to run the length of the horizontal stab near the elevator hinge joint. I haven't measured it, but is around 14" & it holds up well. U can see how I did the wings on my 1/5 Gee Bee here. https://forum.flitetest.com/index.p...e-bee-model-d-from-foam-to-balsa.69228/page-2

 

[cudi]

What is the WS? I've experimented with the brown paper on some test pieces, but never built anything with it. I did find that it does add a fair amount of strength. If the total span is around 48" or less, a plywood connector in the shape of the dihedral to bond the wing together might be all U need. The tail feathers on this Keil Kraft Cub is DTFB, paper steamed off, & Mod Podge tissue covered. I found this to be plenty stiff. I did add a 3/16" balsa strip to run the length of the horizontal stab near the elevator hinge joint. I haven't measured it, but is around 14" & it holds up well. U can see how I did the wings on my 1/5 Gee Bee here. https://forum.flitetest.com/index.p...e-bee-model-d-from-foam-to-balsa.69228/page-2

Thanks for more reading material There won't be any connectors, as I had to simplify a little bit the wing by making it straight (had lot of trouble with the plans - they're old and printed on A4 sheets, so imagine their preciseness...), this in turn will allow me to use a straight piece of wood as a spar and as a consequence I hope it will make the plane more agile as the prototype made earlier barely reacted to ailerons at all. Also I'll have to stick to solid wood like pine or lime to make the spar (balsa is too messy and I am foced to sand everything in the apartment...), done that in the past - it's fast to make and durable as hell . The span is 120cm (about 47 inches). Well, again I must stick to brown paper as it helps me out a lot with any surface imperfections (no need to use any putty), unlike the tissue.
Stage two done:

 

[cyclone3350]

Thanks for more reading material There won't be any connectors, as I had to simplify a little bit the wing by making it straight (had lot of trouble with the plans - they're old and printed on A4 sheets, so imagine their preciseness...), this in turn will allow me to use a straight piece of wood as a spar and as a consequence I hope it will make the plane more agile as the prototype made earlier barely reacted to ailerons at all. Also I'll have to stick to solid wood like pine or lime to make the spar (balsa is too messy and I am foced to sand everything in the apartment...), done that in the past - it's fast to make and durable as hell . The span is 120cm (about 47 inches). Well, again I must stick to brown paper as it helps me out a lot with any surface imperfections (no need to use any putty), unlike the tissue.
Stage two done:

Sounds like U got it planned out. I'm with U on the brown paper. If I got a significant increase in stiffness with tissue, then the brown paper will be that X 10. I am seriously considering using that on the Micro Jet which I'll start the thread on later today.

 

[cudi]

Sounds like U got it planned out. I'm with U on the brown paper. If I got a significant increase in stiffness with tissue, then the brown paper will be that X 10. I am seriously considering using that on the Micro Jet which I'll start the thread on later today.

The only thing that really scares me now is cutting out the smaller things like spar socket or servo sockets, not to mention the battery compartment and so on The fillets are also going to be interesting to do...

 

[cyclone3350]

Did all those things on the Gee Bee. From what I've seen, you'll do just fine.

 

[cudi]

Did all those things on the Gee Bee. From what I've seen, you'll do just fine.

Thx for the faith

 

[cudi]

Did all those things on the Gee Bee. From what I've seen, you'll do just fine.

Also I've noticed that lots of modelers tend to fix the elevator servo in the tail instead of fixing it in the midsection and pulling the pushrod all the way through the fuselage, just like you did it in the gee bee here:

Doesn't it make the plane tail heavy?

 

[cyclone3350]

Also I've noticed that lots of modelers tend to fix the elevator servo in the tail instead of fixing it in the midsection and pulling the pushrod all the way through the fuselage, just like you did it in the gee bee here: View attachment 223840 Doesn't it make the plane tail heavy?

Most ARF's & modelers prefer this, do the ease & saving time from installing pushrods & guide tubes. When I do scale I prefer the looks of the servo installed in the fuse. On the Gee Bee, it will be a glow with an ignition & this puts the weight all the forward & need some in the back end.. I also didn't have the space. Unless U R building a WWI biplane where all the weight has to up front, CG is usually not an issue with this setup. If U scroll to the bottom on this page, https://forum.flitetest.com/index.p...cub-and-time-to-change-my-avatar.68115/page-2 , U can see what a hassle it can be to put them in the fuse. On my current build, I'm putting all the servos outside.

 

[cudi]

Now I just have to figure out how to allign everything correctly

EDIT:
Just eyeballed it Seems to be ok

 

[cudi]

A little update. Today I've managed to make the batt/rec. compartment, the engine segment along with reinforced (0,6mm x2 ply + 8mm balsa) foam former. The reason for using 2x thin ply instead of one thick former is that it was fast to do and didn't require to use any heavy machinery, just a pair of scissors And lastly I've managed to nicely sand down the segments to achieve a more realistic look. Here are the effects:

 

[danskis]

@cudi - any update on this?