Matthewdupreez
Legendary member
dude....... you're to good
Icarus Aerospace TAV (w/plans)
- Thread starter leaded50
- Start date
leaded50
Legendary member
Here is the "reference" side view, for internal horizontal structure with formers (in full size / full length 860mm)
The horizontal internal structure "spar" will be a touch shorter (approx 10-15mm) because the skins on outside. measures on where formers should be, gives it correctly).
Formers will give the correct look of that structure by measuring, and lines from former to former.
whats not shown here, is the battery/electronics "compartment" made by bottom & sides under the "slot" at drawing. (between formers B - nearly E ) I choosed to make that to take a 5000mAh battery with measures H: 45mm X B: 50mm inside. Height space is here measured flat rearward from former B under "red line" at the sideview. You need make the correct cutouts in former C and D, to fit your wishes of electronics "box" size, I cutted out openings in that "box" to reduce weight, and get no problems with where wires goes.
The red line is where the horizontal internal is. Dont forget its change of angle at former D , and it should be a flat underside of belly from former B to F.
(yes, i used some scrap foamboard from chrashed planes)
The horizontal internal structure "spar" will be a touch shorter (approx 10-15mm) because the skins on outside. measures on where formers should be, gives it correctly).
Formers will give the correct look of that structure by measuring, and lines from former to former.
whats not shown here, is the battery/electronics "compartment" made by bottom & sides under the "slot" at drawing. (between formers B - nearly E ) I choosed to make that to take a 5000mAh battery with measures H: 45mm X B: 50mm inside. Height space is here measured flat rearward from former B under "red line" at the sideview. You need make the correct cutouts in former C and D, to fit your wishes of electronics "box" size, I cutted out openings in that "box" to reduce weight, and get no problems with where wires goes.
The red line is where the horizontal internal is. Dont forget its change of angle at former D , and it should be a flat underside of belly from former B to F.
(yes, i used some scrap foamboard from chrashed planes
)Attachments
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leaded50
Legendary member
******* NO, this wouldnt be a "easy build", without good knowledge/skills in building in "Master - style" + a bit more. Some parts (specially skins and individually wishes of builder) will need individually adaption/cutomizing for giving best result. But at least, i will share mainly how you can build the plane your self. *******
On this plane ive also used 3D print for pilots, rockets, bombs, rocketlaunchers, landinggear eg.
On this plane ive also used 3D print for pilots, rockets, bombs, rocketlaunchers, landinggear eg.
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cyclone3350
Master member
Nice to see U show us your design process. I am recovering well and will spend time on my Cub today. When I first constructed it, it was intended to be my first gasser. I have since changed my mind, and now I am racking my brains out as to how make it field operational for plugging and unplugging a 10s system.
leaded50
Legendary member
10s..... is it needed? By todays motors,its possible to find motors with similar power wattage by lower s rating after what can see.
nice to hear recover is going well. Ive been on surgery, and started recover, but goes slow ( in my opinion) and they found some sh**** needed to be done something later on, so are on same place as before, down in life quality more or less
by using a "condenser" (???) or whats called - electronic "thing" that remove/reduce the sparks made by connect/unconnect, it should be ok. for cars, you can by a "master switch" (even radiocontrolled) for 24V battery, that is possible mount on a side eg. ?
nice to hear recover is going well. Ive been on surgery, and started recover, but goes slow ( in my opinion) and they found some sh**** needed to be done something later on, so are on same place as before, down in life quality more or less
by using a "condenser" (???) or whats called - electronic "thing" that remove/reduce the sparks made by connect/unconnect, it should be ok. for cars, you can by a "master switch" (even radiocontrolled) for 24V battery, that is possible mount on a side eg. ?
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cyclone3350
Master member
10s..... is it needed? By todays motors,its possible to find motors with similar power wattage by lower s rating after what can see.
nice to hear recover is going well. Ive been on surgery, and started recover, but goes slow ( in my opinion) and they found some sh**** needed to be done something later on, so are on same place as before, down in life quality more or less
I have this power setup on a 17lb/7.7kg bird and it works very well. This one should come in @ 15lb/6.8kg and should be able to fly on 8s. Being a Clipped winged, I know that I will want the10s once trimmed and acclimated for some fun pattern/sport acro's. Yes, I know what U mean about a slow recovery. Today is day 6 since I was discharged and I am up to about half speed but getting better each day.
Attachments
leaded50
Legendary member
about... How i found how formers "should be". When researching the pictures found, as the one i removed boom/wing on, and a another from front, i know from the front one, that it shoud have a angled "midline". How much eg.... dont know, need just make out from the picture, what believ it is.
The fuselage view from side, i resized on my computer screen (a reason why im NOT using mobilphone for such and other "graphic" work) to the actual size i want it to be keeping aspect ratio. Then just using a ruler to measure how many mm at the points i decided formers should be to get the formers height. .
Former A is at rear of the nose, and supports its shape at an mid rounded shape from "0", to a more straight curb ahead to rear. And landing gear.
Former B is just at front of canopy, that give me a reinforced place for even a tongue from the canopy to lock it at front.
Former D exact of canopy rear, give thats reinforcing for eg a hatchlock. The E former support the wing, and F is where the fuselage sides changes to curb in to the end.
From the front picture, i can see approx the shape on the fuselage side, and make the formes D-E-F sides, on where it seems be more or less similar shaped/ straight sided. The former A is shaped as similar sides, but a lower , and all more rounded type. By using the former laid over the former C, and halved the difference between, i know how the former B should look.
Every formers edged side is determed by where the sideprofile line goes. Thats the max out on sides of the formers .
All shapes on the plane isnt straight cut looked from front rearward, all angles are rounded shape some more, some less. that gives how corners on the formers need looking.
- hope this give some understanding why i made the formers looks as they do. (true as on original, or just similarity.. )
The fuselage view from side, i resized on my computer screen (a reason why im NOT using mobilphone for such and other "graphic" work
) to the actual size i want it to be keeping aspect ratio. Then just using a ruler to measure how many mm at the points i decided formers should be to get the formers height. .Former A is at rear of the nose, and supports its shape at an mid rounded shape from "0", to a more straight curb ahead to rear. And landing gear.
Former B is just at front of canopy, that give me a reinforced place for even a tongue from the canopy to lock it at front.
Former D exact of canopy rear, give thats reinforcing for eg a hatchlock. The E former support the wing, and F is where the fuselage sides changes to curb in to the end.
From the front picture, i can see approx the shape on the fuselage side, and make the formes D-E-F sides, on where it seems be more or less similar shaped/ straight sided. The former A is shaped as similar sides, but a lower , and all more rounded type. By using the former laid over the former C, and halved the difference between, i know how the former B should look.
Every formers edged side is determed by where the sideprofile line goes. Thats the max out on sides of the formers .
All shapes on the plane isnt straight cut looked from front rearward, all angles are rounded shape some more, some less. that gives how corners on the formers need looking.
- hope this give some understanding why i made the formers looks as they do.
(true as on original, or just similarity.. )Attachments
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cyclone3350
Master member
Well U just got me motivated. Going down stairs and finish this Cub. Just started a thread on balsa builders and breakers. Like your work
leaded50
Legendary member
pilot figures i found on the web (thingreverse, stl finder) 3D printed and adjusted a touch to fit in size, and arm angle eg.
Planned to put on the instruments before gluing the plastic in place.... but now need wait... printer isnt function
This is how my solution of the canopy keeping in place are.
If sse at picture where the "brown stripes" are , its also openings, two slits all the way in length. Also at the wall between the pilots, instrumentpanel for rear pilot, and the rear wall of canopy are made of cardboard. When presses the sides in, the whole cockpit flexes a little (all parts inside just glued at the mid section) , and get a touch less wide, and will at place, press against the inside of the outer fuselage skin.
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leaded50
Legendary member
about whats written... parts can be in need of individual adjustment (even in size) ... the Nose!
Thats made of 4 pieces, i recommend start with two parts for the lower. Each part need "fingerwork", squeezing and shaping to curb it, even in both directions (yes, its possible up to a point)
-Glue a short bit, say eg approx 10mm of side C together on two skin parts. Try squeeze and shape it best possible to fit the former A shape. ----Then glue side A on both, half into the former A .
-Then you again shape the sides C forward to tip best possible as the shape shown on the sideview picture. Side B is where the "propline" are. That will be a little pronounced edge contour of the skin after. You will need to use fingers to shape it as good as can till glue dries.
- Then you take the two other parts, glue together a little on the C sides, and same method shaping. Its a good chance you need cut a little of them to fit good shape of the lower part.
It should not be straight lined form tip to former anywhere, It shopuld have a slight curbed shape on all sides, even the tip of the cone, should be rounded off, see on the picture of side as reference.
If necessary if believe can be easier, make internal shaped parts. (eg as a cross) , to get it shaped best possible.
Thats made of 4 pieces, i recommend start with two parts for the lower. Each part need "fingerwork", squeezing and shaping to curb it, even in both directions (yes, its possible up to a point)
-Glue a short bit, say eg approx 10mm of side C together on two skin parts. Try squeeze and shape it best possible to fit the former A shape. ----Then glue side A on both, half into the former A .
-Then you again shape the sides C forward to tip best possible as the shape shown on the sideview picture. Side B is where the "propline" are. That will be a little pronounced edge contour of the skin after. You will need to use fingers to shape it as good as can till glue dries.
- Then you take the two other parts, glue together a little on the C sides, and same method shaping. Its a good chance you need cut a little of them to fit good shape of the lower part.
It should not be straight lined form tip to former anywhere, It shopuld have a slight curbed shape on all sides, even the tip of the cone, should be rounded off, see on the picture of side as reference.
If necessary if believe can be easier, make internal shaped parts. (eg as a cross) , to get it shaped best possible.
Pilotr2020
Member
So how do you get the dimensions of the pieces and formers you need, especially for the skin. Do you guess, trial-and-error, use a computer program, etc.?
leaded50
Legendary member
- as written, i use a picture zoomed to the actual size on my home computer screen i wanna build it in, and take the measures i can get then, - the foamboard thickness (eg. 70mm height, will get 60mm with 5mm fomboard skin) and looks on other pictures s to determ the style, if cant find a picture in actual angle, its not so difficult make something pretty close.... as i wrote in another post here.
To get the skins size, well if starts in one end, its not too difficult individually get them to fit by trail & error. Or, can use plain writingpaper fitted on outside and light behind, to se where the formers are, and mark how rhe panel need to be. This plane even have a "angled line" going all the way... pretty nice to use for where top & bottom parts are connected
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leaded50
Legendary member
well, it gets biiiig..... just 1170mm length, and wingspan with "short" Wasp wing are 1200mm, with the "wing-extension" as Branta version it gets 1957mm wingspan..... Just as Wasp version with short wing, it feels like no space to transport it in one piece. Im thinking of the need to make wing & booms detachable from fuselage.
fuselage got quite nice with rocket carrying on the sides though?
Just as Wasp version with short wing, it feels like no space to transport it in one piece. Im thinking of the need to make wing & booms detachable from fuselage.fuselage got quite nice with rocket carrying on the sides though?
