KK 2.1 HELP!!??... or not

[unzapped]

Ok. So my first ever flying machine will be a Bat Bone V-tail. It is almost done. Er... was almost done...

The deal: my kk 2.1 board came in with the LCD "loose" so I thought hey I'll just apply a little tiny amount of CA under it to hold it down... and what really happened was a big drop of CA landed directly on one of the selection buttons.

Let me just tell you that thin CA wicks into small places like nobody's business... So I promptly got nail polish remover, q-tips, my "spudging" tools (who knows what these are?), micros screw drivers, tweezers, and after several careful hours with surgical like prowess. The LCD is not loose, but she didn't make it. In retrospect, maybe I should have just left it alone overnight and hoped for the best.



So there she is. That button will not work again ever. The KK 2.1 is useless... or is it? I have an avr programmer. Is it possible to modify settings on a pc?

I have ordered two more KK 2.1's (this hobby is f'in expensive no?) I am in pretty deep $$ I have no transmitter yet (apparently ebay sleuths buy out hobbyking, mark shit up, say their from the US and then ship stuff from china anyway) I could have just ordered international from HK if I wanted to wait several weeks.

Oh well, I am not getting into this hobby to "save" money or time right?

Hey Bixler if your watching your cart finally works again. My wife thanks you...

Any ideas on what I should or could do with this bunk board? she is new? Necklace perhaps?

-=unZapped=-

 

[Craftydan]

Wow. Bummer.

I see the button is shot . . . is the screen dead too?

The button *could* be desoldered and replaced . . . or if you're really good, just solder the through-hole version of those switches over top of it. On the positive side, of the four buttons, I think that's the only one you can do without.

The kk2.0 board had a rom made for broken LCDs -- the board could be programmed with a PC application through the USBasp. Inconvenient, but saves an otherwise lost board . . . But, I don't think it's been rehosted to the 2.1 board yet. Steveis over at RCgroups wrote that rom/application, but he's been busy resolving HK's blunders in board redesign. Might be handy to check out his blog, if for no other reason than to dream of a future for that poor board.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=367321

 

[unzapped]

Screen is good to go. It has only ever been hooked up to power and was setup for v-tail. It may fly as is... although I probably cant fly it I was hoping for a pc application of the sort you mentioned. I will go down that rabbit hole. I have had enough of soldering... as a matter of fact these days if you have the time to spend and the extra few bucks... the whole rig can be plug and play! I may have a friend who would be interested in trying to fix... Thanks for the link and taking the time to respond.

-=unZapped=-

 

[Cyberdactyl]

Since the switch is ...well... a contact switch, and it's also SMT, reducing complications, just figure out the incoming leads and solder a very small wire (28 gauge or so) to the contacts and simply touch the wires together when required.

 

[TooMuckinFuch]

Hey I popped my very first kk2.1 board by sending a full 12v signal into it The screen lights up but no words show. The buttons are still fine. If you want to transplant some buttons, I can send it to you!

 

[unzapped]

Hmmm... That may be an option lol I would need to get a magnifying glass out...

 

[TooMuckinFuch]

Just let me know. Ask your friend that may be interested in fixing it if he's capable of soldering in a new button.

 

[Tritium]

I have a hot air rework station and 35 years of electronics industry background. I would not mind attempting repairs for anyone but since I have not done any work on this board before, no guarantees on the outcome (except a switch, should be child's play)

Thurmond

 

[TooMuckinFuch]

Anywhere near central texas Thurmond?

 

[xuzme720]

West IIRC...

 

[TooMuckinFuch]

Too bad. I could use an experienced pilot locally to leech information from! Lol.

 

[Cyberdactyl]

The soft spongy softness of about 2mm of 18g silicon wire soldered and laid flat with about 1mm of bare wire whetted with solder over the correct trace end should work great. You just pop-press together when needed. The reason this would work well is because that second button is disabled except when accessing the menu and inadvertent contact is not a deal breaker.

 

[unzapped]

Ok I am willing to try anything... My soldering perfectionist has agreed to attempt a repair if I can take you up on your offer of the bunk board. I can finance the shipping lol... paypal?

-=unZapped=-