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Micro - 1S Build Help

Hey everyone. While this is my first time ever posting on the forum, it is by far not my first time using the FT forum to get in the air. I am not entirely sure what I would do without the generosity of the individuals that take their time to respond to others in the community with less experience. With that said, I apologize in advance if this is not the proper, “protocol” in which to post something like this. Nevertheless, I am truly out of options and hope that someone out there may be able to help me with my current build!

It all began with a WLtoysF949 the Cessna 187. I learned to fly on it, and felt this odd attachment to it whenever the brushed tri motor gave out. So I opted to do a little research to see what a brushless upgrade would look like. That decision in and of itself is the catalyst that set the rest of my(limited) experience in motion. I went online and ordered a plethora of parts online from various different outlets. 1.7G, 1.9G, 2.5G and 4.6G servos, 1806 motors, 2212 motors, and accidentally five 1103-8000KV motors. Pushrods, ESC”s etc. I basically wanted my own parts warehouse. All and all I spent less than $150.

I scratch built the FT mini Scout, with 1.7G servos, Turnigy Plush 20A esc, and 1806 motor and I love it. Straight forward on the electronics and all is well. Then I had bought an old Flyzone Aircore Folkwulfe for a steal when I originally conceived the notion of getting into the hobby..so I put a turnigy 18A in there, with the 2111 I think? with 1.7G servos as opposed to finding a “power cord” and all went well with that build. . I built 2 more scouts with the various electronics I had laying around. But I did not want to fly them until Inhad the Cessna in the air. The Cessna was what I would get back into the swing of things with so I wouldn’t destroy my new scout or the 190 since I’d be a little rusty coming off of the manufacturing period lay-off if flying....which brings me to the issue...

Not only did I want the Cessna in the air, I wanted simulator projects. Small, 1S powered 500mah type airplanes running on the 1103 motor. The information online is scarce, however a few different threads pointed to this being the absolute best motor for a micro >60G plane. The Cessna weighs somewhere around 50G. The popular setup is an 1103Brushless running off of an S-Bus inverter with a micro quad ESC running off of the original Wltoys PCB. However, like others, I could not get the setup to work for me. Apparently the key is to have a Flysky radio and to be able to set the throttle points. (Wltoys runs off same protocol as flysky...so I got a flysky transmitter to fly it. Whenever I could not get the PCB to send the signal to the motor I opted to use a receiver I had at the house. 4Ch ultra micro FLysky receiver. It weighs absolutely nothing.
I hooked the servos, and the ESC to the new receiver and voila!! Everything works....I put a GMS 2x3 on, and went to the field. It didn’t end well...after calibrating the ESC the 1103 motor seemed to take forever to spool up to full speed...I went back home and calibrated and programmed some more and got it to finally seem to work. However now, it only runs at constant speed! Soon as I move the throttle stick it goes to a set RPM, and then doesn’t accelerate or decelerate. It remains at a constant no matter what. I continued to try and program it and now it will not work at all. It’s a 7A brushless(XP). Anyhow, I decide to try it on one of my turnigy ESC”s and it will not even turn the motor unless I hook up one of my 2S batteries to it. When I do this, I get full throttle curve, response, etc. but the 1S does not so much as power the receiver board with the exception of the light. This seems to me as if the ESC is somehow not working for a lack of a better term with the 1S battery..I’ve tried multiple 1S 500mah batteries and multiple receivers, and it’s the same result. I’ve changed the 1103”s out for different brands, and it’s alwYs the same result.

Based on what others had said(20 min flight time with this setup) I felt this was just some hidden gem of a motor with a magical weight to thrust setup for micro builds. I had dreams of micro bipes and ultra micro foamies and all sorts of stuff based on the #”s in some of the 1103 threads...but I cannot seem to find the benefit of this setup if it will not run off of the 1S..I know that this is a ton of information with a poor delivery of what exactly I am asking. However I hope thst amongst the info I’ve provided that someone out there may have some ideas about the 1S 500mah setup on the 1103 or if someone else has an idea of a better motor/ESC/prop combo for what I am talking about with the micro builds...I personally was led to Believe that 1103-8000KV on a 500mah 1S would be wayyy overkill for >60G airplanes...however I cannot seem to even be able to produce enough thrust to make the plane so much as wiggle on the table...I have to leave the prop on, otherwise the motor will not spin..I guess this is a fail safe of sorts for the ESC..but anyways...I truly got into this with the aspiration of using these 1103”s for similar size scratch builds while being able to use cheap, 1S lipos...the brushed version can fly 20-25 mins...on the Cessna...and I had a blast flying in wind, Soaring at the coast, etc. and wanted something close to the same power just brushless...but unless I am missing something, it seems to me that I have messed something up, or the other pilots claiming these things are leaving something out in their posts....

Any help, thoughts, would be greatly appreciated!


Legendary member
I have run a lot of 110X sized motors on things, but I've never tried one 1s... even an 8000kv would only be pushing the props 32k on 1s... my last 1s build was brushed. The little 820 motors, in theory, can push the props almost 50k rpm... I'm wondering if going for a 2s battery would help...
Thanks for the reply. Honestly it’s a bit confusing for me, and that is ultimately why I decided to proceed with the post. Unfortunately this is still new to me and the etiquette for this stuff. Nevertheless what confuses me I guess is that between the, “Failed Brushless Upgrade WLtoys F949” thread and the “1103 for micro build thread” there is a great deal of people that seem to love and enjoy successful flights via 1S on a 1100”s type motor. For instance, when I first stumbled upon the Tiger Moth build by manic on FT, my first instinct was to question why exactly he felt that the 2S 300mah battery was the best for the 5G motor that is used. I felt that type of build, was almost precisely what I set out to achieve with the F949 Cessna basically being my “Guinea Pig” for the setup applying the 1103 8000KV instead. Needless to say, The Cessna remains grounded, so further attempts at a micro build with this application will to as well. Obviously I’d like to understand why exactly the 1S 500mah manages to turn the motor but only 1 speed/RPM. That is the lingering issue that I cannot really explain. Otherwise I’d probably haven given up and gone to the 2S. But it’s the ESC seemingly not accelerating or decelerating thst leaves me thinking: “Maybe there is a higher gear”. Maybe it’s not functioning as it should and that’s the issue. 1S or not; one would think that with the Prop on that the 1S 500mah would at least produce enough thrust to make the plane wiggle a little bit or something..it just seems flat, constant and steady RPM. That has had me ”chasing my tail” trying to learn exactly what is going on here. And in the process, I found the thread on 1100 types with all the watt-amp-volt info associated with variois props etc. and it certainly was less than what I had anticipated...here this guy that did this conversion originally has sparked this mini trend of sorts where a TON of noobs(first plane/dk difference in Brushed/brushless) are on that thread asking how to do it; then posting weeks later with how amazing their plane is now that they have ordered and installed the suggested 1103 8000KV setup on 1S 500mah, basically all of them have used the tiniest prop available...we’re talking about multiple reviews of guys/gals speaking of 20-25min flight time at half throttle and such..yet enough thrust that the wings fold in on themselves so you of course have a multitude of other responses of guys with their setups(same setup) and the “struts” they’ve made to accommodate the new found performance causing stress on the airframe...”Stress on the air frame”....I can’t even get my plane to wiggle on the table at WOT...let alone begin to think about a similar style scratch build with the same electronics...

Sooo; I hear you...and I hear the numbers/stats as well. They all say: go to 2S or rethink the setup. But that of course is not what I’d “LIKE” to do...but perhaps I may have to..nevertheless, based on the ESC and it’s “odd behavior” and the multitudes of novice and veteran pilots alike posting about the awesomeness of the setup, I hope one can imagine why I perhaps am being so stubborn about it..it has frankly taken Me an absurd amount of tinkering and outright working my tail off to get this plane up and going like so many others have...to no avail so far.. I guess I had just maybe hoped the application of the 1100”s type in the ultra micro build was something that was fresh enough that maybe a ton of others hadn’t tried it yet: and like I said; maybe I had found some gem by stumbling upon that thread, etc. as opposed to there not being a ton of 411 out there because it is not exactly a practical application....no matter how many posts I’ve seen claiming it is..


Legendary member
Correct, even on 1s it should be enough power to get around, I was forgetting just how light your plane is.

Could be your esc, have you calibrated it? Try putting your transmitter on full throttle, powering up your plane, wait for the beeping, then lowering the throttle to zero... also double check the the esc is capable of operating on 1s, but I suspect it may just need calibrated...


Building Fool-Flying Noob
Welcome to the forum @NoleBlooded235!

I'm glad you reached out. If this advice here doesn't help... think about recreating the successful build others are talking about... 1103 (same brand) and the same brand esc. if you have the funds of course. I rarely do it seems.
Correct, even on 1s it should be enough power to get around, I was forgetting just how light your plane is.

Could be your esc, have you calibrated it? Try putting your transmitter on full throttle, powering up your plane, wait for the beeping, then lowering the throttle to zero... also double check the the esc is capable of operating on 1s, but I suspect it may just need calibrated...

Thank you for the advice. I attempted to keep the post more digestible by omitting Occasional details about what I had or had not done yet. But I probably could of just posted the link to the info I attempted to describe and made it much shorter. Since in the end, it’s really about trying to discern if my ESC is the issue; or if the build is possible in the first place. So far:

I got the ESC hooked up, took it to the field for its (re)maiden and crashed immediately. I had not yet calibrated the ESC properly. *The Motor would gradually; “spool up” from a low RPM, to the highest, but the reaction was sluggish, and not consistent with the throttle input. (I include this here to show that this setup out of the box DID at least change motor speed/RPM with throttle input).

I take it home, calibrate the ESC. Exactly as the directions say to do. And the same as you suggested as well. I did the same thing to calibrate the Plush 20 and 12 that went on the FW-190 and the Mini scout(s). Those calibrated the throttle immediately by putting stick all the way up then back down before the 2nd beeps..
So for the 7A on the Cessna it beeps the same as the plush’s did. And do exactly as the directions state it should: it “arms and gives the confirmation tone indicating the throttle and ESC are all good and ready to roll.

However the Motor after many an effort of calibrating, tinkering, etc. does not speed up or down whatsoever. I move the throttle stick a little bit, and it’s the same speed as all the way up at WOT. That, “speed” in this case doesn’t produce enough Power to even wiggle the plane let alone fly. No matter what: it remains the same.
* the only other piece of information about it is that now the ESC doesn’t arm whatsoever..it simply makes the “Arming tone” but does not move the motor. It did this once before, and I flipped the connector then tried it again, then flipped me back to the correct pattern and it worked again...or would allow me to program it, but not to accelerate or decelerate...constant RPM no matter the throttle position..

This of course would indicate the motor or the throttle end points..however the throttle endpoints are the same as they are for the other planes I’ve built, and indicate they are both at the proper position based on the wealth of videos and threads out there showing how to do check and set end points. So it should be fine.

I plugged a 2S 300mah from the 190 into it to test it because the 1S would not power the plush ESC I was using to isolate the problem instead of the 7A. And with that setup, the power is absolutely awesome. The throttle accelerates and decelerates properly...

If the 1S would power the 12A plush then I’d be able to see if it was an ESC problem for the 7Axp immediately..

Anyhow...I appreciate the response. I certainly am not aiming to pin you down to solve my issues with the plane. But I really appreciate it. The plane weighs 55 grams. There is a video of the guy that made the original 1103 on the stock PCB setup flying FPV with it for 20 mins..it’s tag is that it’s a 50G plane..mine weighs a little more because of the ESC I used instead of the original PCB.
These are some numbers that I found online on another forum. And they are quite surprising to me in regards to the thrust #”s that others are suggesting on the other thread where everyone posts their successful 1103 to F949 conversions. Everyone seems to use a super tiny prop on these motors, almost everyone uses the deal of the month 7A ESC, and seem to produce plenty of power. Yet these tests suggest that a 5x3 is the way to go if ur on either 1S or 2S..but that just seems crazy to me based on what people report with the 2.5x2.5 or 3030 props...suggesting that 3535 is too large..anyhow...just throwing it on here if it helps .


Welcome to the forum @NoleBlooded235!

I'm glad you reached out. If this advice here doesn't help... think about recreating the successful build others are talking about... 1103 (same brand) and the same brand esc. if you have the funds of course. I rarely do it seems.
The, “successful build” or the origin of all this was sparked by the guy that got it to work on the original PCB. Because the F949 is more or less almost exclusively a beginners plane, it is a thread chalked full of guys having absolutely no idea what this dude is talking about. So because of the nature of that along with impatience, it kinda morphed into a challenge of sorts for the veteran pilots and a “must have” for the noobs. Thus some of the foremost info on the 1100”s 8000kv type with a 1S 500-650mah battery almost, “bloomed” from this seemingly unassuming thread..because of the impatience of most with the PCB setup, you began to have people come out of the woodwork so to speak, with a micro receiver with HK 1.7”s as opposed to trying to get a Brushed MOSFET to signal the motor From the original PCB...the original PCB has 1.7G servos built into it..so getting that to power a brushless motor kinda becomes the name of the game for a lot of people out there..and it is very possible...but since my SBUs wouldn’t signal the motor, I being impatient I guess, opted to go the micro receiver route...

I include this because: obviously the best way to figure all this out would of course be: to go straight to the source...however just powering the PCB/motor and SBUs and all that became the focus of the aforementioned thread...and people simply trying to get an 1103 8000KV to run off 1S the same as the PCB setup does became unpopular and no one has been able to get him to comment further in over a year....

Since then; is when all these posts of the 1103-8000KV on the receivers started coming out as an alternative to the guys original setup...and these are individuals speaking about it collapsing the wings and pitching up from the powers...(all the things that sound ludicrous to my current status with the setup!) With that said, using the original PCB to power a brushless motor is 100% a real thing..with a good deal of literature on it now...but I was not able to complete that, and figured this would be the “quick and easy way” to just convert everything...thst way I’d know for future micro builds...and that’s unfortunately where I still sit...It’s clear that the 1S doesn’t run on the larger ESC”s I have...
i checked a bit now.. and found that some 1103 8000KV is recommended 1-2 cell, others 2-3 cell. Could it be the reason?
hey thanks! I have 5 knockoff Happy models that are 7500KV and then a Racer Star 1103 8000KV that I currently have mounted on the front of the plane...the result has remained the same:..but I will note that the Racerstsr version seems to spin more freely..the “ads” for them on Banggood and Ebay both indicate that they are recommended for 1-2S...

The ESC however, does not indicate what it is recommended for whatsoever...

It makes me wonder if perhaps a model without a BEC, mean for a quad is the way to go? I mention this because after reviewing the thread and everyone’s versions of it, very few if maybe one guy has an ESC thst has a BEC...however the guy with the same 7A ESC as me as well as motor, is the 2nd person to really get out there with a video and pics and all that showing the success of the “alternate build” (like I did) instead of the original PCB build...so I didn’t even think about the BEC or lack thereof somehow effecting the signal to the motor?

Idk; just throwing it out there...but thank you very much for the advice..
I guess my intention with the thread wasn’t to go on a tirade about my personal issues with my plane, but instead I was hoping to see what others felt about the 1S setup potential with the 1100”s 4000-8000KV..I mean at this point I am certainly not against using a 2S to power it...but obviously based on the title of the post I had hoped to be able gauge the plausibility of examples I had previously seen regarding the use of the 1S..and was hoping to broaden that topic more from the 2-3 posts I have been able to find obline(which is where all of my info came from)..

Out of curiosity, does anyone know what the flight times would look like on a 2S 300mah, maybe 150mah for something relative to the size of the F949? So 60 grams or less...obviously I know that there are a number of factors that go into that type of loaded question but I’d be using either a 3030 prop or the 2530 or the 60mm tri-blade(can’t remember the pitch) but I have quite a few 3 blade prop options in that neighborhood...and of course plenty of 5x3”s...

I guess the real incentive behind this build (besides being able to apply the same type of application to another plane) is to be able to fly a micro plane like the Cessna around for 15 mins...people claim to be able to get nearly double that on a 1S-650mah...but from what I understand, the 2S would not be even half of 15 mins? So it almost defeats the whole incentive on the build besides having a ultra micro brushless plane in the hangar...


Legendary member
It all depends on what you're trying to do in the end I guess. The only reason I've done 1s builds is to use the pile of 1s batteries I have for some purpose other than micro quads, and to use left over micro quad parts. I've had some pretty successful builds but Its never been for the purpose of long flight times.
If you're in it for long flight times I'd step up to 2s and maybe even consider some lithium Ion options. If you want to keep weight as low as possible, keep toying with 1s...


Master member
Few things to note, 1s is 4.2v at full charge, when you hit the throttle it will sag lower. That said a lot of recievers do not function below 3.8v and some need 4-4.2v. Esc's are the same, most do not work on 1s. If using the bec on 1s you are adding to the issue as there are always losses on a bec. For 1s power, powering the reciever directly from the battery is often necessary. On another note, every 1s setup I have done has always used a gear box. Often the kv on small motors is very high and you need a gear reduction to use any reasonable sized prop. Of course if you do 2s then the esc is almost certain to be fine, you need the bec to drop the voltage, and there is enough voltage to run the motor with a reasonable sized prop.


Active member
Few things to note, 1s is 4.2v at full charge, when you hit the throttle it will sag lower. That said a lot of recievers do not function below 3.8v and some need 4-4.2v. Esc's are the same, most do not work on 1s. If using the bec on 1s you are adding to the issue as there are always losses on a bec. For 1s power, powering the reciever directly from the battery is often necessary. On another note, every 1s setup I have done has always used a gear box. Often the kv on small motors is very high and you need a gear reduction to use any reasonable sized prop. Of course if you do 2s then the esc is almost certain to be fine, you need the bec to drop the voltage, and there is enough voltage to run the motor with a reasonable sized prop.
I read "math math science science voltage use a UMX receiver and be done with it already"
An update on the 1S build:
first and foremost, I apologize for the confusing rambling that ultimately characterized my responses to everyone as well as the main substance of this thread itself. It certainly wasn’t my intention. I truly hoped to have some advice come my way, but ultimately hoped this would be more informative to those out there contemplating the very same questions that I was. With that said: here is the “Tale of the Tape”.

The reason I had no thrust: was because the 7A ESC was for 2-3S. It however specified that it was for 1-3s..so it took me a little while to fully de-commit from that setup. Since it was roughly the same as others I had seen.

I had ordered a tiny, XP 3A b/less ESC a while back and had honestly forgotten about it as a viable alternative..nevertheless, I interchanged it for the 7A and immediately, the plane had enough thrust to move on the table...which in and of itself was a victory for me..

The maiden flight took place this evening...and yeh..it was freaking awesome...I went into it basing my assumptions off of the thrust test results that can be found in various places online. Suggesting that the motor would produce about 25-35G of static thrust on 1S..almost everything thst I could find pointed towards going to 2S and changing everything about the intent of the build..the only contradictory info that was out there was the initial thread in which I rambled about last month..and began to question the validity of as well...so I certainly was not expecting much..

My mini scout with the 1806-2300kv on 2S 800mah is absolutely incomparable to the flight of the little Cessna.. obviously I expected different flight characteristics, but good lord, this thing will absolutely roll now...it is just bad fast, has unlimited climb..and is night and day different than what it was on the original triple-geared brushed setup that it came with...I absolutely could not control it before I adjusted my rates..so maybe not, “wing collapsing” but the thrust is a non issue...and to think, I was worried I had wayyyy too much thrust angle...

My first flight was around 13 minutes...and that was me really pushing it to see what I had in the setup...the second flight was closer to 20 but it got so dark I could no longer see it and had to call it a night...so basically all the criteria that I set out the achieve or learn about: was ultimately accomplished with the setup on 1S.

The Hangar

Fly harder!
Awesome!! Would you be willing to link the parts you used? I’m interested in making micro 1s versions of some of the ft models for indoor and backyard flying.
According to others results on static thrust, varying about 10Gs between the various places I went to looo suggested that the plane would have a ratio of 30:100 or 30:1..which at a quick google glance, suggests that the plane should have been relatively mild and comparable to other brushed micros like the HZ cub or some of the brushed volantex planes...basically a super easy flying, low thrust type flier...however, what I got was a plane nearly twice as powerful as the original version...

From what I understanrd: static thrust is not the best way to learn the information that one wouod need to determine if the 1103 has enough power or not for other builds. That is reflected in my own experience, as there were times where it was flying at dang near 3D when I first was getting the hang of it...which a static thrust test would suggest that’s impossible with that motor on this plane...yet, what I got was an Uber fast, absurdly long flying ultra micro plane on a day that was too breezy to fly my mini scout....so I can’t speak to my “specifics with my wattage and static thrust and all thst, but I can speak to an amazing experience...with thst said: I think it’s important to mention that this setup was utilized in a plane that has vastly different wing loading characteristics than say something like a micro Tiger moth; like I mentioned before as perhaps a candidate for this setup as opposed to the 5G motor with the 2S 300mah on it like suggested on here...so I cannot promise that this setup would work without a hitch in all airframes....but this is rough specs of my experience; I hope that it can help others, and engender a little more information for others:

Airframe: WlToys F949 - like the strongest foam ever(dk the type)
Motor: Racer Star 1103- 8000KV
ESC: XP 3A brushless
Servos: 1.7G HK Dig
Battery: 3.7V 1S- 500mah
Prop: Gemfan 3025
Wingspan: 51” high wing
Fuselage length: 38”(give or take an inch)
Weight(with battery): 56G

Flight time: 15-20mins..

hopefully I can apply this setup to something else and post those results...thabks for all the help and advice!
Awesome!! Would you be willing to link the parts you used? I’m interested in making micro 1s versions of some of the ft models for indoor and backyard flying.
I specified what I used in the post below..I would add links but the ESC is no longer in stock from Hobby King. So the link goes to a blank page...there are very similar setups to mine that have been done with a 7A/1BEC just dealers choice for the brand..however, I think it really depends on what Tx you use...for Flysky, it uses the same protocol as the Wltoys PCB..thst comes with 2 1.7G servos on it and it’s 4 channel...the issue is: it’s a brushed MOSFET gate...so you have to use a i-bus signal inverter and bypass the gate to get it to power brushless stuff...I wasn’t able to get it to work...however, it’s a common enough thing apparently...what is more common, is seeing people bypass the signal inverter and wire directly to the internal BEC on the PCB and apparently the Brushed signal feed will power a brushless ESC...so, if didn’t run out of talent on that, I would have used the original PCB...however the receiver I did use it’s about the size of a dime...so that’s ncredibly light...

But the nicer brands out there of Transmitrwrs, have a lot more options for receiver boards with built in ESC”s and stuff:...so if I didn’t have Flysky, and I was wanting to do micro builds...that’s what I’d do...if I was using Futaba stuff, then I’d certainly be buying the XK-A600 and XK540-edge PCB”s and using those...built in servos, ESC, and BEC...and the both of those are 7.4V; 2S...so lots of wiggle room there with what you could do with it..where as the PCB for the Wltoys stuff would go up in smoke with 2S...

So Brushless PCB”s preferably with built in servos, with the same motor is what I’d do if I had the option with my transmitter...

as far as the motor is concerned: I used the 1103-8000KV...I linked above some of the static thrust tests I was able to find online for that on 1S and 2S as well as the 4000KV and 6500kv version...and the 1104 version...which is preferable apparently...I like what i have, but as far as I can tell you have a lot of options with the brushless motor(s)..

They make the 0708 and 0804”s which are 15,000KV up to 25,000KV...
the 1103”s and 1104”s and the various KV”s...

Then u can always do a 1306...that is by far the most popular motor for the plane I have with the brushless setup...but then you have to do 2S...and u go up on weight quite a bit...anyhow, I am sure that most of the info I shared with you is already a known commodity lol, but I’ve been doing so much “tiny 1S brushless motor research” the last month that I feel like I should be a sales rep...obv not too great at the specs, but I’m pretty well versed with all the various motor options that could be used on builds like this lol...would be interested to see what the 10,000KV 1104 would do though...better magnets, larger stator; and relatively the same weight with 2000 more KV,..

Finally; the prop is again dealers choice, but the overwhelming theme is: smallest u can get...and tri-blades actually work a whole lot better with this motor, but u draw so much more by using it thst it may nullify any noticeable performance...but I have about ever 30xx or 25xx size prop there is..in 2 and tri blade options...but the 2 blade Gemfan 3025 is what I used tonite and it worked wonderfully...

Apparently if u have the ESC to handle it, putting a 5x3 GWS on it is the overwhelmingly best “static thrust” performer based on the various specs I’ve found...but yeh, everyone actually flying and not running the motors on a bench are using “2525”s and 3030”s 3025”s etc...
Awesome!! Would you be willing to link the parts you used? I’m interested in making micro 1s versions of some of the ft models for indoor and backyard flying.
It would appear that dang near every Tx manufacturer out there(at least the more popular brands) have their own respective micro receivers equipped with servos, ESC and BEC. I cannot speak to the boards ability to be brushless however...interesting because the Futaba boards from the XK planes I made mention to before, don’t actually have servos on them..rather micro JST connectors soldered on. However I did find some Spektrum DSMX receivers akin to the same notion of using some of the “replacement PCB”s from typical RTF type micro planes on a 1S micro build..it is astonishing how the price is almost $70 for such receivers, however they do come equipped with micro 1.5G servos. Some of which have 3 servos on the PCB...However, unless I am mistaken; the majority if not all of those planes that those PCBs cane out of originally were actually Brushed motors and Brushed ESC”s, probably a mosfet gate like the flysky PCB on the Cessna..

So of all the brands out there(of course idk yours) but of the 3-4 I’ve made mention to: the Futaba FHSS PCB”s are the only ones that I have been able to find that are designed from the outset to power a brushless motor..and they run on 2S 300mah (I believe) with their intended setup.

The Spektrum and Flysky receivers are both brushed, however unlike the Futaba/XK PCB they come equipped with servos...

So, if I was setting out to do a 1S micro build again, depending on the radio thst I was using, I would definitely want to try and implement the use of a PCB as opposed to strictly using a receiver/ESC/ and servos all Independt of eachother...I won’t go into the “benefits” as I’d think that’s obvious...but as far as I can tell, the only real option to be able to get ALL OF THIS in one, running off of the 1S batt and being brushless...is to either A). Separate everything independent and plug it into the receiver..or B). Figure out how to bypass the MOSFET in order to power a brushless ESC from the brushed board and/or C). Using the board (brushed) to send the correct signal to power the motor..effectively using a brushed setup to power the brushless motor..apparently for 1103”s it can be done..

I think learning how to utilize options B and C is an intriguing notion because of weight and all that good stuff, but really because of the ability to take a replacement board from a beginners micro plane and utilizing the Gyro or ASMX perks that are typically built into those type boards...for instance my Cessna did not come equipped with GYro, however, the Futaba XK planes do...so I believe taking a micro plane and giving it the ability to have thst extra stability without any extra power consumption or weight is great! It certainly allows you to at least fly whenever it is too windy to do so..which is obviously an issue with these little planes...

so...that’s another long rant to get to that point lol...but I just figured I’d point that out..would almost be worth the PCB setup as opposed to typical RX alone...