nwnugget's Gremlin build

nwnugget

New member
Hello, I am posting my first build tread. Here is how things went when assembling my FT Gremlin.

01 Gremlin Box.jpg

Frsky XM+ receiver for the build, ordered from Amazon.

02 Frsky Receiver.jpg

Hyperion Camera from the Flite Test store, ordered with the Gremlin.

03 Hyperion.jpg

XT-30 connector ordered from Amazon. I would like a smaller wire gauge for this. It was difficult to solder to the tiny pads. (sorry for blurry pic, but most know what XT-30 look like)

04 XT30.jpg

Getting started I plugged the Femto Flight Controller (FC) into my PC and connected via Betaflight. Attempting to connect while shorting the boot pads proved fruitless. Even after asking my wife to help. I tried STM USB VCP Drivers. I tried Zandig. No go. I decided to proceed with the build anyway and hope the forums presented a solution before I finished. First thing to do was tin the pads on the FC. I had the dulcet tones of TJ's voice playing via the Youtube build video through the entire process, so thanks TJ.

05 Tin FC.jpg

I have since added heat shrink tubing to the clips on my helping hands. I intend to grind the points off the clips "teeth" as well, they are pretty aggressive right now. Next up was to prepare the electronic speed controllers (ESC). Per the Guru himself "strip, twist, and tin. - TJ".

06 Trim ESC.jpg

Soldering the ESCs to the FC was tricky at first, but one or two in I got the hang of things and it went pretty smooth.

07 Solder ESC.jpg

Following the ESCs I soldered on the battery lead and the receiver. I wish I had made the battery lead shorter. Maybe I can fix that in the future.

08 Solder RX and XT30.jpg

On to the motors. I left the motor wires the full length because I do not know what kind of frames I will make for this. I don't plan on keeping TJ's frame forever. Sorry TJ, nothing personal.

09 Solder Motors.jpg

The FPV camera was next in the hot seat for soldering. Following the video I trimmed the wires and soldered it down. I use a wad of StickTac to hold things still when I solder. I find it to be very helpful.

10 Solder Camera.jpg

After the camera it was time to put everything on the frame. It is pretty cramped on there. At first I was having issues getting the ESC wires around the standoffs for the rear of the frame. Some finagling and it worked out. I used a couple of rubber bands to hold the camera in and down for now. I'll probably 3D print a mount/stand off piece for the front of the frame.

11 Assemble to Frame.jpg

I have 5 of these batteries to use. So far I have 6-7 minute flight times just cruising around.

Battery.jpg

This is where things went completely out of my comfort zone and became a true learning experience. Surfing around the forum I found the post that recommended the ImmersionRC Driver Fixer. I downloaded that and ran it. Preparing Betaflight and shorting the boot pins then connecting the USB... DFU boot! Nice. Alright, time to flash the new firmware. Flash failed. Now I have read that Betaflight will say it failed, but it works anyway. I went to CLI and typed "version". Betaflight showed the latest version, but I didn't trust it so I flashed it again. It worked fine the second time. All good.

Now I needed to bind the receiver to my Taranis QX7. Set the transmitter to bind and with the help of my wife held the button and plugged in a battery. It didn't work. Three more tries later... it worked. Betaflight recognizes the transmitter movements. While I am in there I set the arm switch and the mode switch.

Following along with TJ I moved on to the motors. No props on I used the motor test mode to calibrate the ESCs and determine motor 2 and 3 needed reversed. I downloaded BLHeli Suite and connected to the Gremlin. I was unable to connect via the software. In the video TJ's stuff just worked. Probably because he has done this a thousand times. In the program there is a tab Select ATMEL / SILABS Interface. I tried all of those, changing the COM port to COM6 at the bottom of the program until I found one that connected. I am sorry, I don't remember which one it was. Once connected changing the motor direction was as easy as selecting which ESC at the bottom and moving a slider over one position until the motor direction read "REVERSED". I did this for motor 2 and 3 and hit the "write setup" button and disconnected.

After the ESC calibration I went back to Betaflight. I set the Gremlin level and calibrated the gyro. Went to the motor tab and into test mode (still no props) to check motor direction. All good. Attaching the props was as easy as TJ made it look, two screws per prop and you are done.

On to the maiden. I have a video. I am working on figuring out how to put it in here. Until then you'll just have to take my word that it flies well and I cannot wait to fly the field behind my office.

I will update the video when I figure it out.

I think I got it now. Thanks JimCR120.


Some new parts!
I did a search on thingiverse and found a 3D printable camera mount/standoff combo. Set up the file in Cura and sent it to my printer.

13 3D Mount.jpg

I then took the gremlin top plate off. And removed the rubber bands I was using to hold the camera on.

14 disassemble.jpg

I used a tap to thread the standoffs for the M3 nylon screws. They are not great and don't stay very tight. I'll probably put some hot glue down the threads as a "thread locker".

15 Camera in.jpg

Finally to put it all together again.

16 reassemble.jpg

All up weight is 101 grams, the quad with no battery weights 72 grams.
 
Last edited:

JimCR120

Got Lobstah?
Site Moderator
Nicely detailed build thread started. I like the pix and the comments.

I finally got my FCB connected last night on the 5th cable, ufff:mad: along the way not knowing what the problem was but yesss:applause:, so glad to be past that. I should be making good headway this Saturday.

Videos can be easily posted if they're already on YouTube by clicking the little Attach Movie button, pasting in the link, and then posting. If you make a mistake it can still be corrected afterward.
 

PsyBorg

Wake up! Time to fly!
Gratz on a successful build mate. To make things easier on future builds I suggest tinning the boot pins as soon as you get the FC. They seem to be coated and shorting with a wire or screwdriver can be problematic specially without an added pair of hands. With the solder balls on the boot pins you set the screwdriver between the balls and give a little twist and it works great. Lastly.. NO MORE vertical cell phone videos please. The internet and Rc fanatics hates them.

As for your field.. I HIGHLY suggest you add a buzzer first. These things can be hard to find in freshly mower grass let alone any thing over 3 inches high. Ask me how I know ;)
 

nwnugget

New member
Gratz on a successful build mate. To make things easier on future builds I suggest tinning the boot pins as soon as you get the FC. They seem to be coated and shorting with a wire or screwdriver can be problematic specially without an added pair of hands. With the solder balls on the boot pins you set the screwdriver between the balls and give a little twist and it works great. Lastly.. NO MORE vertical cell phone videos please. The internet and Rc fanatics hates them.

As for your field.. I HIGHLY suggest you add a buzzer first. These things can be hard to find in freshly mower grass let alone any thing over 3 inches high. Ask me how I know ;)

Thanks!

My wife was in charge of the video. I'll have to give her some cinematography lessons. Also noted for next time.

I got it stuck in a tree today (don't ask, and it was definitely NOT pilot error...) and it took two of us to find it before I could climb up and get it. With a ladder. And a 6 foot piece of PVC pipe. Any suggestions on which buzzer? I thought I heard somewhere that you could set your ESCs up to be beepers as well. Thoughts?
 

FoamyDM

Building Fool-Flying Noob
Moderator
Great Build Log. Thank you. I hope mine goes as smoothly as that reads.
 

JimCR120

Got Lobstah?
Site Moderator
Not pilot error?

Who put that tree there?
The tree just reached out and grabbed the Gremlin?
It was growing faster than advertised?
The dogwood ate it?

Hmm...
 

cranialrectosis

Faster than a speeding face plant!
Mentor
Nice build. I like the detail and the photos. How do you keep the RX antennas out of the props?

The Gremlin on top is pretty cool. I like how clean you kept it with such little room.

I second the buzzer comment, particularly if I end up flying the maiden at night because of STM32 Bootloader in DFU mode...:mad:

Way to stick it out and get the job done.
 

nwnugget

New member
Nice build. I like the detail and the photos. How do you keep the RX antennas out of the props?

The Gremlin on top is pretty cool. I like how clean you kept it with such little room.

I second the buzzer comment, particularly if I end up flying the maiden at night because of STM32 Bootloader in DFU mode...:mad:

Way to stick it out and get the job done.

The TJ frame has two small holes on either side of the battery lead. Once all the programming was done I fed the antennas down out the bottom of the frame.

Thanks, I tried to keep it pretty neat.
 

PsyBorg

Wake up! Time to fly!
I would not rely on the esc / motors as a beeper. Its not very loud and you can fry components if you raise the volume. Any peizo 5v buzzer will work and they are on their own pads so you can have it on a switch. I use the esc / motor buzzer on my Alien and if its in deep grass you (well my old half deaf ears) need to be to be pretty close to hear em. I don't worry too much as I can only fly in two places and I don't go far anyways. I am also focusing more with race speeds then free style this summer so I will not be over the alfalfa fields much.

One more word of advise and I will stop yakking.. Pay close attention to the nylon screws used to hold the frame. They do what they are meant to do in a crash and that is shear off. The last flight the day I maidened mine I pancaked it pretty hard and broke two or lost one and broke a second. I did not notice until this afternoon when I put the rubber band on and the frame went cock eyed. Needless to say it did not get air time today because of that.
 

nwnugget

New member
I would not rely on the esc / motors as a beeper. Its not very loud and you can fry components if you raise the volume. Any peizo 5v buzzer will work and they are on their own pads so you can have it on a switch. I use the esc / motor buzzer on my Alien and if its in deep grass you (well my old half deaf ears) need to be to be pretty close to hear em. I don't worry too much as I can only fly in two places and I don't go far anyways. I am also focusing more with race speeds then free style this summer so I will not be over the alfalfa fields much.

One more word of advise and I will stop yakking.. Pay close attention to the nylon screws used to hold the frame. They do what they are meant to do in a crash and that is shear off. The last flight the day I maidened mine I pancaked it pretty hard and broke two or lost one and broke a second. I did not notice until this afternoon when I put the rubber band on and the frame went cock eyed. Needless to say it did not get air time today because of that.

I ordered some buzzers from the link sent a few comments ago. I'll need to find the schematic for the femto because mine didn't come with one.

Does anyone know what size the nylon screws are? Looked over the gremlin this morning and I am missing one. I have a feeling this will be a reoccurring thing.

Thanks for the heads up Psy.
 

PsyBorg

Wake up! Time to fly!
I replaced mine with the metal screws that came with the standoff kit I got and used. They are M3 x 6 mm Same size as the nylon ones from the Gremlin kit. I am going to use metal ones as I have crashed this hard enough now that I think other then a head on strike into a solid non movable object will have no effect damage wise if I use the metal screws instead. I think it will solve the head ache of losing the nylon ones as they stretch on impacts and loosen up.
 

nwnugget

New member
So some interesting developments yesterday. Put a pack through the Gremlin. Came in, landed, changed packs. When I armed (under goggles) and went to take off the quad just flipped over. I disarmed and took my goggles off, righted the quad and armed it. Motor 1 (per the betaflight diagram) is not spinning at all.

I have not properly diagnosed the issue yet as I got busy at home. It was spontaneous and has me a bit confused.
 

cranialrectosis

Faster than a speeding face plant!
Mentor
Was the second pack charged?

Can you spin the prop for motor 1 easily by hand? (with the lipo disconnected) :)

When you connect a lipo, do you hear the proper chimes from ESC 1?

Has motor 1 ever been 'twitchy'?
 

nwnugget

New member
Was the second pack charged?

Can you spin the prop for motor 1 easily by hand? (with the lipo disconnected) :)

When you connect a lipo, do you hear the proper chimes from ESC 1?

Has motor 1 ever been 'twitchy'?

Battery was charged.

Props do spin, easily, freely and grind free.

I'll have to report back about the chimes and tones.
 

hungryzebra

New member
Interesting that you have that issue, I have the exact same issue with mine right now. I have a full set of replacement motors and ESCs, but I'd rather not just throw parts at it if possible.