Help! Pushrod adjustment without linkage stoppers

FastCrash45

Elite member
Yes I dropped one of the screws and lost it that is why I am looking into using the bends instead of the linkage stopper.
I find everyone of them I drop. If I sift through the vacuum cleaner bag which os a big NO for me.😂😂😂😂
 

GlassL

Member
(y) Let me know how it works out for you. Did you watch my vids on it?
Yes I did and tried to use my old Monocote iron but it appears not to be quite hot enough even turned all the way up. It did just started smoothing the foam. I will have to get my wife's permission to use the iron or buy a used one at Goodwill for model work!:giggle: Happy wife happy life!
 

BATTLEAXE

Legendary member
Yes I did and tried to use my old Monocote iron but it appears not to be quite hot enough even turned all the way up. It did just started smoothing the foam. I will have to get my wife's permission to use the iron or buy a used one at Goodwill for model work!:giggle: Happy wife happy life!
That's funny the hobby iron wasn't hot enough, a household iron, mine any way, is dialed at maybe 2/3rds max up the dial and works really well. You will really like the results though
 

GlassL

Member
That's funny the hobby iron wasn't hot enough, a household iron, mine any way, is dialed at maybe 2/3rds max up the dial and works really well. You will really like the results though
The hobby iron is made only to heat the monokote hot enough to activate the glue and shrink the plastic, I think it is designed not to be so hot to melt the coating. By the way how does this look for a u bend on the linkage?
 

Attachments

  • 20191217_222405.jpg
    20191217_222405.jpg
    399 KB · Views: 0

Grifflyer

WWII fanatic
The hobby iron is made only to heat the monokote hot enough to activate the glue and shrink the plastic, I think it is designed not to be so hot to melt the coating. By the way how does this look for a u bend on the linkage?
That looks really good to me, all the ones I've done end up super crooked.
 

GlassL

Member
That looks really good to me, all the ones I've done end up super crooked.
I had to play with the amount of bend to the U, at first if you tried to squeeze the sides together to make the rod shorter the pliers would slide off. I finally got it right where squeezing the sides shortens it and pulling the sides apart lengthens it. I did have to take the twist out of it to get the two Z bend back to parallel.
 

quorneng

Master member
If you have difficulty putting a U bend in a push rod for length adjustment which also reduces its stiffness it does raise the question why use wire than is so hard to bend?
Softer wire is easier to bend so is easier to get the right length in the first place. Without a U bend it is likely to be just a stiff as the piano wire that has one.
Really soft wire can even be bent, straightened and then re-bent at a new position.
On my lighter (<1 kg) planes I use the wire from 'straightened' paper clips.
EleServo.JPG

Easy to bend and very cheap so if not quite the right length, just make another.
It works for me.
The pretty 3D printed servo horn cover is optional. ;)
 

BATTLEAXE

Legendary member
I don't really use any of the fancy U or V bends. I usuall make the pushrod a touch to long when complete then put a two bend section to shorten it to length required by grabbing it with pliers perpendicular to the push rod and giving it a twist. Less spring in the wire then a U or V bend and is also simple to adjust after the fact. You can see one here on the center most elevator servo...
20191105_163920.jpg
 

GlassL

Member
That's funny the hobby iron wasn't hot enough, a household iron, mine any way, is dialed at maybe 2/3rds max up the dial and works really well. You will really like the results though
So I tried your iron idea with the regular iron and it works great! Had the iron on the first setting of the stream zone and that was hot enough to melt the foam with a light swipe but not too fast. I rounded the leading edges on my tail feathers, then the wing tip edges on my TT wings, and finally tried it on the hinges for the rudder and Elevator on the Shrubwacker I am working on and it works a lot better than my shaky cutting of the 45 degree angle with a knife! The only tricky part is getting the iron all the way up to the paper of the hinge with melting the other side of the hinge. I did get a little wrinkling around the corner of the TT wing tip because I was too lazy to cut the notches in and I thought the curve might be small enough it wouldn't matter. It doesn't look too bad but if I do a curved edge on a plane I am trying to look pretty I will use the cuts to prevent the wrinkles. Another question, how do you insert a picture for your avatar to replace the letter??
 

Grifflyer

WWII fanatic
So I tried your iron idea with the regular iron and it works great! Had the iron on the first setting of the stream zone and that was hot enough to melt the foam with a light swipe but not too fast. I rounded the leading edges on my tail feathers, then the wing tip edges on my TT wings, and finally tried it on the hinges for the rudder and Elevator on the Shrubwacker I am working on and it works a lot better than my shaky cutting of the 45 degree angle with a knife! The only tricky part is getting the iron all the way up to the paper of the hinge with melting the other side of the hinge. I did get a little wrinkling around the corner of the TT wing tip because I was too lazy to cut the notches in and I thought the curve might be small enough it wouldn't matter. It doesn't look too bad but if I do a curved edge on a plane I am trying to look pretty I will use the cuts to prevent the wrinkles. Another question, how do you insert a picture for your avatar to replace the letter??
If you go into "your profile" you can click on your current avatar and it should give you the option to edit your avatar.
 

GlassL

Member
I think it was you who said you really liked the Telecasters, why not go for a picture of one of those...
My Telemaster is missing some side covering as I was doing some surgery to lighten her a little so she wouldn't look pretty but I could probably find a picture I like out of the old magazines when Hobby Lobby was still selling them. Getting the picture cropped right to fit the little frame was hard.
 

Zetoyoc

Elite member
I used an extra z bend in my linkage untill I discovered linkage stoppers. Not sure I'll go back. For the tiny screws I drop I use leftover computer hard drive magnets I made into a sort of small magnetic broom.
 

BATTLEAXE

Legendary member
So I tried your iron idea with the regular iron and it works great! Had the iron on the first setting of the stream zone and that was hot enough to melt the foam with a light swipe but not too fast. I rounded the leading edges on my tail feathers, then the wing tip edges on my TT wings, and finally tried it on the hinges for the rudder and Elevator on the Shrubwacker I am working on and it works a lot better than my shaky cutting of the 45 degree angle with a knife! The only tricky part is getting the iron all the way up to the paper of the hinge with melting the other side of the hinge. I did get a little wrinkling around the corner of the TT wing tip because I was too lazy to cut the notches in and I thought the curve might be small enough it wouldn't matter. It doesn't look too bad but if I do a curved edge on a plane I am trying to look pretty I will use the cuts to prevent the wrinkles. Another question, how do you insert a picture for your avatar to replace the letter??
I'm happy it worked out for you, did you subscribe to my YT channel?