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Help! Remote test “no signal ”

Merv

Well-known member
#43
I think you may need to do the calibration 1 ESC at a time. Unless the KK board will allow to do them all at the same time. The idea is you are showing the ESC what full throttle and low throttle looks like.

Turn on the Tx & move the throttle to high.
Power on the ESC, wait for the beep, move the throttle to low, wait for the beep.
Power off the ESC.
 
Last edited:
#44
I
I think you may need to do the calibration 1 ESC at a time. Unless the KK board will allow to do them all at the same time. The idea is you are showing the ESC what full throttle and low throttle looks like.

Turn on the Tx & move the throttle to high.
Power on the ESC, wait for the beep, move the throttle to low.
Power off the ESC.
i will do it also i think i have to adjust the rotation for ESCs, i will come back with result, I really appreciate all of you.
 
#53
Just wondering but you did replace the burned esc right?
Lol. Honestly not yet. I want to know first why it burned before it even flys. And only ine burned not all of them!
And please correct me if im wrong, when i start fly it it supposed to fly straight up not going around! Although when i check the Receiver test everything is 0 signal; I adjust it to make all signals to 0. But still goes forward or backward not up! Please any help?
 

FDS

Well-known member
#56
When you are arming on the bench with the props off the motors will not behave the same as with props on. The gyros will alter motor speeds which can make the motors not spin together. I would complete all your checks and calibrate the gyro, then get into a good large open space and hover test the board. Arm it and lift off out of ground effect.
Just do that, don’t try anything else. That will test the motors and gyros etc. You would have got smoke if you damaged an ESC.
 

Merv

Well-known member
#58
Unfortunately not one of them
Sounds like the KK board it preventing you from calibrating the ESCs. You need to bypass the arm process. Earlier you said you could power the motors by pushing the buttons. Turn on the Tx, move the throttle to high Hold the buttons, power the quad and wait for the beep. Move the throttle to low. Power off the quad. Get someone to help if necessary.

First, be sure to remove the props and replace the burned out ESC
 

cranialrectosis

Faster than a speeding faceplant!
Mentor
#59
Use the smokestopper to prevent burning out motors and ESCs due to electrical issues (soldering).

After every time I solder, the first time I connect power, I use the smokestopper. Every single time...

Twitchy motors are a sign of a bad (cold) solder joint. If your motors twitch, stop and re-solder the connections between the ESC and the motor.

Motors and ESCs most often burn out due to overheating, shorts, reversed polarity, pushing cold solder joints, shorts due to motor mounting screws touching the wiring inside the motor.

At this point you probably want to start showing video of your copter to show us what you see.

Copters flipping or spinning on start up is VERY common and indicates a wiring problem.


Remember, if it wasn't hard, it wouldn't be nearly as cool to fly as it is. :)
 

Wildthing

Well-known member
#60
That picture in post #5 all your soldered joints were all exposed, just asking for trouble and even possible fire if the battery leads shorted out. Shrink-wrap or tape them up before you hook up a battery .