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Help! Remote test “no signal ”

#61
Thanks to all of you. I will do as you recommend and as I can to provide.
Now i replace the ESC and the brushless that burned. When i arm the KK all of them working except this one i replace it deosnt work with them unless i move the throttle at high speed, and still the speed is really low on that ESC !!
Edit: when i connect only the new ESC and move the throttle some it works fine goes from low to full speed, but when connecting all of them it doesn’t move until I raise the speed and still lower than the others ESCs which lead to flip the copter.
 
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#62
Im
Use the smokestopper to prevent burning out motors and ESCs due to electrical issues (soldering).

After every time I solder, the first time I connect power, I use the smokestopper. Every single time...

Twitchy motors are a sign of a bad (cold) solder joint. If your motors twitch, stop and re-solder the connections between the ESC and the motor.

Motors and ESCs most often burn out due to overheating, shorts, reversed polarity, pushing cold solder joints, shorts due to motor mounting screws touching the wiring inside the motor.

At this point you probably want to start showing video of your copter to show us what you see.

Copters flipping or spinning on start up is VERY common and indicates a wiring problem.


Remember, if it wasn't hard, it wouldn't be nearly as cool to fly as it is. :)
really happy that I reach this point, i wasn’t expect this. Thanks to all of you
 

cranialrectosis

Faster than a speeding faceplant!
Mentor
#63
Thanks to all of you. I will do as you recommend and as I can to provide.
Now i replace the ESC and the brushless that burned. When i arm the KK all of them working except this one i replace it deosnt work with them unless i move the throttle at high speed, and still the speed is really low on that ESC !!
Edit: when i connect only the new ESC and move the throttle some it works fine goes from low to full speed, but when connecting all of them it doesn’t move until I raise the speed and still lower than the others ESCs which lead to flip the copter.
When you use the remote to start your motors all motors must start at the same time.

If they do not, you need to calibrate your ESCs to the transmitter throttle or you will instaflip your copter. :)

I don't recall a way to calibrate all 4 ESCs through a KK2. You may need to calibrate them one at a time directly through your receiver.
 
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#66
When you use the remote to start your motors all motors must start at the same time.

If they do not, you need to calibrate your ESCs to the transmitter throttle or you will instaflip your copter. :)

I don't recall a way to calibrate all 4 ESCs through a KK2. You may need to calibrate them one at a time directly through your receiver.
What do you mean, sorrg I didn’t get it! I know what calibrate means but I don’t know how to connect only one by one to throttle. And you mean the throttle on KK bored or or Rx. And if on Rx which pins cuz i dont know it on Rx. Sorry but im really new to this world and i want to get more knowedge as I advanced.
 

Wildthing

Well-known member
#69
Thank you i already did it. Any idea how i do the claibration for each ESC?
Nope sorry on that side, I have never really crossed into the darkside of these kk2 boards and such. The most I have done is programing some Arduino boards for led lights and even then needed a ton of help.
 

Merv

Well-known member
#70
Thank you i already did it. Any idea how i do the claibration for each ESC?
You need to unplug all ESCs from the KK. One at a time, plug each into the throttle channel of the Rx and calibrate it. Then move on to the next.

To calibrate, power on the Tx, move the throttle to high.
Power on the ESC, wait for the beep, move the throttle to low, wait for the beep.
Power off the ESC.

Repeat for each ESC.
 
#71
You need to unplug all ESCs from the KK. One at a time, plug each into the throttle channel of the Rx and calibrate it. Then move on to the next.

To calibrate, power on the Tx, move the throttle to high.
Power on the ESC, wait for the beep, move the throttle to low, wait for the beep.
Power off the ESC.

Repeat for each ESC.
Which channel on Rx is the throttle channel?
 
#73
Now i did the calibration for each ESC and it worked. Now the problem is the two ESCa which in the front i feel they faster than the two at the back 3,4 cuz it flips on that side!!
 

FDS

Well-known member
#74
Does it do that with the props on or off?
Also are the props on the right way and the motor rotation correct?
 
#76
Also, the motor i replaced now also get stuck littel bit. When rotate it by hand i feel like something stuck but nothing there. It it going to burned also? When i move the throttle slowly it doesn’t move with other motors until i raise the speed.
 

FDS

Well-known member
#77
It might have a screw touching the rotor, check your motor screws are not too long. All motors should rotate freely with no power. Some may be “notchy” feeling but all 4 should feel the same. The FC controls the motors, so they might not all spin the same speed to begin with, but it should hover level and steady regardless of what happens at lift off.
Multi rotors do NOT use trims, all those should be off or centred.
Also check that the ESC’s are plugged into the right numbered ports on the FC, you don’t want motor 1 in port 2 for example. Triple check ALL plugs and joint for potential short circuits and make a SMOKE STOPPER for bench testing, before you put props on it and try and fly it.
 

cranialrectosis

Faster than a speeding faceplant!
Mentor
#79
Your copter's motors will always act funny on the bench. This is because your KK2 is meant to manage motors in the air, not on a bench. :)

When bench testing your motors you look for 3 things.
1. They spin the right way. If you have any motors spinning the wrong way, your copter will flip on startup.
2. They don't "jitter". Jittery motors indicate a bad solder joint between the motor and the ESC. Don't throttle up! Shut down and fix the solder joints.
3. They all start at the same time. It doesn't matter on the bench if some motors seem to spin faster than others. On the bench that will most certainly happen if you have a working KK2 board. What absolutely MUST happen is that the motors start at the same time.

If you have all this working, these are the common causes of instaflip (copter flips or spins on launch).
1. Wires crossed. If you put the plug for ESC and motor 1 in the KK2's slot for motor 2 and the plug for ESC and motor 2 in the KK2s slot for motor 1, your copter will instaflip.

2. Reversed channels in your transmitter. Most transmitters have a setting to allow you to reverse a stick. If when you push right roll on your transmitter the copter gets left roll from your receiver, your copter will instaflip or spin. This one is really fun because if your copter is spinning left, you giving it right yaw is actually being received as left yaw making your copter spin even harder the more you work to counter the spin. In short, be SURE that when you give your copter a pitch up command, it gets a pitch up command not a pitch down command. Make adjustments in your transmitter. This will commonly cause either flipping or spinning.

3. Backwards props. The writing on the prop faces up.... ALWAYS. You need two CW props and two CCW props. These need to be on the proper motors. If you put a CCW prop on a CW motor your copter will howl at you and you may instaflip.

4. Board not facing the right way. If you mount your KK2 upside down or backwards or 90* to either side it will flip.

These are the most common reasons for flipping copters. If this doesn't help, post video of the event and let us see it. :)

EDIT: it seems I was posting at the same time you were. :)

If your copter is spinning go into the KK2 diagnostics and look for a reversed transmitter channel. Instructions are step 6 here.

Also, when you fly, POP your copter up about 1 meter off your launching surface and into "clean" air before you try to fly. The air between your copter and the ground is all swirly for the first few inches and not a stable place to fly.
 
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