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Spitfire Speed Build / esc, servos, or receiver??????

mcdaddy

Junior Member
#1
I bought the kit and got all the recommended parts listed. I went with the brushless 370 equivalent with the 18A esc, 4 suppo 9gram servos. I did have to add some extension wires for servos. I am running the AR6000 and DX6. I know it is old but I am working with what I have. Anyway, the ESC gets HOT just running the servos but not hot when they are not moving. The AR6000 also reboots or locksup then rebinds and controllable.

Here is the weird part, I plug in a battery and bypass the ESC and the AR6000 does the same thing but the battery does not get hot. It is a 3.7 volt so I am thinking low voltage but it pushed Futaba servos on a .60 size nitro Heli.

BAD AR6000? Since symptoms occur with 3.7v Battery and or ESC.

Bad ESC or too small? Since ESC may be overheating and rebooting AR6000 and 3.7 Volt battery is causing AR6000 reboot for low voltage.

Hate to think about a whole new radio and receiver but might be able to get into a DX6i cheap enough.

Any suggestions? Thanks.
 
#2
Explain the 3.7 volt?

Is it per cell or do you want to fly the spitefire on a one cell. My rx dies at about 4.3V and that was on a glider with just 2 servo's
So 3.7V will never run a AR6000.

My spitefire is running 4 x TG9G servo's 30amp hk blue esc and a 2830/11 21amp motor at 11.1V 1600amh 3S battery spinning a 8x6APC prop

My radio is a 9xr with orange DSM2 module and rx.. Its a budget setup, but it sure works great.
 

mcdaddy

Junior Member
#3
Thank you! I am running the suppo 2208 1450kv with 1800mah 3s for motor power but a smaller suppo 18amp ESC. My issue is with brownouts or the AR6000 resets, I mean I bind good and get an orange light. Once I work the servos over for a little bit the AR6000 orange light goes out and the controls stick in last position. Light comes back on and all is good again until I work the servos again. The ESC is hot as well. Since my meter broke I can't test anything so for the heck of it I plugged in a single cell 150mah lipo 3.7v into the AR6000 to run it and the same thing happens. I can run 4 Futaba servos with this configuration no problem. Thanks again for your help. I was begining to think I would not get a response.
 
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#4
Unplug all the servos. Hook up your watt meter. Turn on the tranamitter, plug in the battery. Check the meter. Plug the in the servos individually one at a time. What happens?
 

mcdaddy

Junior Member
#7
I tried it without the meter. I managed to test one aileron and it locked up or rebooted. While I was getting ready for the second servo test, I dropped my remote and it does not bind now. So I am just going to buy a new radio and receiver and ESC since I believe the ESC I have, 18amps, is too small. I am on a budget so i was thinking about the orange set up or a dx6i. Thanks for the help. I will post again for advice on the next radio and receiver.
 

tramsgar

Senior Member
#8
That ESC has a 2A linear BEC? I'd try an ESC with a beefier BEC or a separate BEC, that'll probably do the trick. Sorry about your tx, you can probably get it repaired.
 

tramsgar

Senior Member
#10
Well you got 4 analog 9g servos, your ESC's BEC should be able to handle that. For my scratch builds I've always used the built in BEC with no problems. Normally with this kind of problems you should try a dedicated BEC (and disconnect the ESC's) but probably it's just the one in your ESC that sucks. I'd try any 20 or 30 A with a switching BEC of at least 2A, for example this one is great (also red brick ESCs are good). But you could get away cheaper by just trying with an external BEC like this or similar. Maybe you can borrow one and try before you spend the money?

It is not that likely that it's noise that causes this, as your BEC is linear, but if everything else fails you could try to put a ferrite ring between your ESC and receiver.