FT Mini Mustang Paper Replacement Kit
- Thread starter Rasterize
- Start date
Thank you sir and you will. Hopefully by the end of the weekend.
I have at least 5 others that are next in line and some of these are going to be from scratch.
BBD would be easy enough but the checker pattern would drive me nuts!
Buzzmonster
Member
This is fantastic - and I realize the amount of work that has gone into it. Would you consider taking donations for these ? I would certainly through some $$ in the beer money jar.
So, how hard is it going to be scale these up for the swappable size FT Mustang?
Oh I could do a swappable size. It's never been hard to design "skins" for swappable size planes. I've done multiple versions of Viggens and the Storch.
Really the hard part is getting them printed. Larger planes mean larger prints and that raises the cost beyond what most are willing to pay. You're probably looking at around at least $8 a linear foot for most folks to print the swappable size. What?$30 to cover a plane? I can build four "Old Crow" type Mustangs for that!
These new mini P51 and Corsair sizes allow printing of the skin pieces on common (read cheap) paper sizes. I think people would pay the $4 to have them printed and get their planes looking cool. I have seen several folks designing other warbirds for this size that I will be doing skins for, localfiend's Mighty Mini Mitsubishi A6M Zero to name one.
Last edited:
Thanks guys. My inner narcissists has been well fed today! lol!
"Old Crow" and maybe one other (Corsair?) I planned on doing for the FT community. I'm not the best pilot in the world nor am I an engineer/CAD designer/electrician. This is such a great community and I wanted to contribute some way with the skills I did have.
I was toying with the idea of doing one for those north of us. This perhaps? Even it it looks more gray than silver when printed, I like the orange.
Edit: I stand corrected...it's not orange but "Guard Red".
Last edited:
bgfireguy92
Senior Member
Hey sir I tried sending you a pm but it said that your box is full. I was wondering if I might pick your brain a bit about this?
You make me happy!
Now I have a plane for indoor flying!
When I build it i will be rounding the edges of the foam with an iron to get rid of all the white spots where the foam ends. I'll also try to figure out a way to cover the foam where the hinge bevels are.
Now I have a plane for indoor flying!
When I build it i will be rounding the edges of the foam with an iron to get rid of all the white spots where the foam ends. I'll also try to figure out a way to cover the foam where the hinge bevels are.
Awesome! Day one of the new year and I made somebody happy! Cool!
You might want to print the PDF's out on an inkjet printer. If you go the Staples route or use any other place that uses a "Laser" or Toner Based" machine, your iron might melt and smear the polymer based ink.
As for hinge bevels. I was thinking about doing the cut then try and peel back the paper to expose the foam for bevel cutting. The trick will be re=attaching the paper over the beveled area. :\
bhursey
The Geeky Pilot
I have started doing that on my planes also. It helps also prevent the paper from coming up. It also gives a more polished look. I found it is better on scratch built kids vs speed build because the speed build has the foam already part way melted in from the laser....
Im wondering if minwaxing this will do anything. I am worried it may mess up the inkjet ink. I may have to do some testing... I am however thinking the 3m sprayed paper may not wrinkle as easy as default paper?
tyoho
Member
Ironed hinge bevels
You can iron the hinge bevels also.
It's a little tricky, so I'd recommend doing some practice on scrap scrap pieces.
For the bevels, do the hinge line cut and break it open, then lay the part down on the edge of your table or a wood block with a straight sharp edge. fold the control surface down and line it up with the edge of your support and use that as a guide for the iron as you form the bevel. Depending on the shape of the part, you might want to put a ironed bevel on both sides of the cut. I still do a bit of hot glue along the joint anyway just for safety.
I've been meaning to do an updated how to video on ironing the edges and adding sharp tapered trailing edges and ironed bevels. If I don't get to it soon, I'll try to at least get some pictures of what I'm talking about
You can iron the hinge bevels also.
It's a little tricky, so I'd recommend doing some practice on scrap scrap pieces.
For the bevels, do the hinge line cut and break it open, then lay the part down on the edge of your table or a wood block with a straight sharp edge. fold the control surface down and line it up with the edge of your support and use that as a guide for the iron as you form the bevel. Depending on the shape of the part, you might want to put a ironed bevel on both sides of the cut. I still do a bit of hot glue along the joint anyway just for safety.
I've been meaning to do an updated how to video on ironing the edges and adding sharp tapered trailing edges and ironed bevels. If I don't get to it soon, I'll try to at least get some pictures of what I'm talking about
Last edited:
schuttkerk@yahoo.com
Member
Great work!
Progress Upate
Thanks for all the kind words. I just wanted to update you on my progress:
I went out and I got version 2 printer Saturday night. Having my printer die and having to go out to have proofs printed has really slowed my process down to a crawl. Started building today but had family obligations so I did not quite finish up but I wanted to post some picks anyway.
Sporting the new canopy. Stopped at the upper fuse sheeting.
Bottom panels look good, Back one need tweaking.
Got to get the stripes lined up a little more.
.
Nose to nose. V1 on the Left. V2 on the right. Nose squares got a little bigger.
I liked the way the bottom turned out for the most part. There are some more tweaks that need to be made but I don't think I need to build a third model before I post the PDFs.
Unfortunately vacations over and it's back to work in the morning. Nothing like real life to cut into my RC time.
After I get the tweaks done I'll post the PDF's.
Thanks for all the kind words. I just wanted to update you on my progress:
I went out and I got version 2 printer Saturday night. Having my printer die and having to go out to have proofs printed has really slowed my process down to a crawl. Started building today but had family obligations so I did not quite finish up but I wanted to post some picks anyway.
Sporting the new canopy. Stopped at the upper fuse sheeting.
Bottom panels look good, Back one need tweaking.
Got to get the stripes lined up a little more.
.Nose to nose. V1 on the Left. V2 on the right. Nose squares got a little bigger.
I liked the way the bottom turned out for the most part. There are some more tweaks that need to be made but I don't think I need to build a third model before I post the PDFs.
Unfortunately vacations over and it's back to work in the morning. Nothing like real life to cut into my RC time.
After I get the tweaks done I'll post the PDF's.
Sweet. Got my speed build kit sitting here waiting. You going to put out a 8.5x11" version as well?
Blenderite
Professional Crash Pilot
This looks awesome!
I wanted to avoid having to tile pieces. Hence the 11X17 format.
I suppose I could. I would however advise aginst using them. The wing and fuse would be split in two. If you were off by just a little when gluing them together you would have some issues with your build.
BridgeInspector
Flite Test Groupie
Fantastic! Can't wait to try this out!
