Tricopter - Scratch Build
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Blu-Vector
Junior Member
Gotcha.
For the kk2, go in the mix menu and for motors 1, 2, and 3, set the Yaw value to 0 (I think motor 3 will already be set to 0). After that the servo alone will be responible for yaw. That will help a bit for the front booms dropping/rising in yaw (roll), but your yaw will be more off center than having a mix of props.
For the kk2, go in the mix menu and for motors 1, 2, and 3, set the Yaw value to 0 (I think motor 3 will already be set to 0). After that the servo alone will be responible for yaw. That will help a bit for the front booms dropping/rising in yaw (roll), but your yaw will be more off center than having a mix of props.
lankyjames
New member
Can someone answer if I must only have one power source on the m2-m8 power rail?
As I understand it, one ESC plugged into m1 will power the kk2.
My confusion lies with am I okay to connect ESC's 2&3 to M2/3 or should I remove one of their power inputs? M4 being servo output and requiring power from the kk2.
I know David avoided this doing a straight ESC>Servo power but was interested in the other way of doing it all through the FC.
As I understand it, one ESC plugged into m1 will power the kk2.
My confusion lies with am I okay to connect ESC's 2&3 to M2/3 or should I remove one of their power inputs? M4 being servo output and requiring power from the kk2.
I know David avoided this doing a straight ESC>Servo power but was interested in the other way of doing it all through the FC.
It's one of those It-probably-won't-hurt-to-ignore-but-it-might-help kind of issues. You're right, both M2 and M3 are contributing a voltage from their BEC, and if either is significantly different, one will "charge" the other potentially wearing one or both out . . . but that's usually not that big of a deal.
The easy answer is pull the middle pin out of *either* M2 or M3's plug, and tape it off. The remaining plug powers the servo, and a voltage regulator that doesn't provide any current can run pretty efficiently . . .
. . . Or ignore it and it'll probably be ok.
The easy answer is pull the middle pin out of *either* M2 or M3's plug, and tape it off. The remaining plug powers the servo, and a voltage regulator that doesn't provide any current can run pretty efficiently . . .
. . . Or ignore it and it'll probably be ok.
Blu-Vector
Junior Member
um . . . no.
Aileron is what controls your roll. As long as you don't want to move side to side -- EVER -- you might want to leave that one alone.
(unless you meant rudder/yaw instead of aileron/roll, then ignore that -- zero the rudder)
Aileron is what controls your roll. As long as you don't want to move side to side -- EVER -- you might want to leave that one alone.
(unless you meant rudder/yaw instead of aileron/roll, then ignore that -- zero the rudder)
lankyjames
New member
Thanks for your help Dan, finally finished (as of successful short-maiden last night), my tricopter.
Based on rcexplorer designs with;
Building the frame;
Delrin Legs; my big zip-ties just can't handle the weight
Motor Mounting; custom delrin plates for zip tie-ing to the boom and adapter for the yaw mount. To prevent slipping I used heat-shrink under the motor mounts.
Electronics; A pain and I ran out of heatshrink. Planning to go back and sleeve my wiring to look a bit tidier. Apologies for the not so great photos.
Here's the first (very short) flight from last night;
Next up; I need some FPV gear!
Based on rcexplorer designs with;
- G10 Body
- Carbon booms (35,35,37cm)
- SunnySky V2216-12 800KV
- HK f20a simonk escs
- KK2.1 with Steveis V1.12S1
- 11x4.7 props
- some custom cnc work for motor mounts and tail adapter plate
- solid wire-hung battery tray
- All up weight; 850g incl 3s 2200mah battery
Building the frame;
Delrin Legs; my big zip-ties just can't handle the weight
Motor Mounting; custom delrin plates for zip tie-ing to the boom and adapter for the yaw mount. To prevent slipping I used heat-shrink under the motor mounts.
Electronics; A pain and I ran out of heatshrink. Planning to go back and sleeve my wiring to look a bit tidier. Apologies for the not so great photos.
Here's the first (very short) flight from last night;
Next up; I need some FPV gear!
Blu-Vector
Junior Member
rudder/yaw is at 0 and -1 ... i tried to 0 the second motor but notthing happened.
Another question, i have some problem of pitch and roll, i'm trying to compensate via software with self leveling settings, but with poor results. I'm using trimmer to compensate , but i dont think this is the right way to go. Is there any other way i am missing?
if self level is "off", meaning it won't keep a true level, that means the "level" isn't properly calibrated to the props. changing the self level settings won't help this -- all it will do is make the level correction weaker or drive it to the wrong level faster.
Two things you can do -- Make the board and props "level" to ground then calibrate, then trim in your radio to clean it all up.
To make the props level to ground, place your tri on a flat surface and one motor at a time, measure the distance between the prop-tips and the ground, and subtract the two numbers. You're looking for the "angle" the prop is to the ground, as seen in the difference between the heights, so don't rotate the motor between measurements, but it might be good to turn the motor 90 degrees and remeasure if they match. you're looking for something less than a few mm, or less than 1/8". If any one motor is off by much more, check the frame and booms for any warp, and if you've got a warped wooden boom (it happens) it's time to replace it. If they all seem to be tilting the same way, try to adjust the landing skids to level them -- doesn't have to be permanent, you just need to do it for the calibration.
To level the board to the ground, place the tri on "level" ground, open the sensor menu and read at the accelerometer numbers. now turn it 180 degrees -- are both X & Y numbers the same? really close? calibrate. nowhere near? averge the numbers between each reading to get an average X & Y -- that is your level value. slip sheets of paper under the skids until you get close to the averages then calibrate.
Once both props and board are level to the ground, you know they're level to each other . . . but what if it still drifts on a windless day?!? you should now be in range of a few clicks of trim on the radio. If you're putting in only a couple of clicks of trim and not a dozen or so, your airframe is likely performing "level" well.
Two things you can do -- Make the board and props "level" to ground then calibrate, then trim in your radio to clean it all up.
To make the props level to ground, place your tri on a flat surface and one motor at a time, measure the distance between the prop-tips and the ground, and subtract the two numbers. You're looking for the "angle" the prop is to the ground, as seen in the difference between the heights, so don't rotate the motor between measurements, but it might be good to turn the motor 90 degrees and remeasure if they match. you're looking for something less than a few mm, or less than 1/8". If any one motor is off by much more, check the frame and booms for any warp, and if you've got a warped wooden boom (it happens) it's time to replace it. If they all seem to be tilting the same way, try to adjust the landing skids to level them -- doesn't have to be permanent, you just need to do it for the calibration.
To level the board to the ground, place the tri on "level" ground, open the sensor menu and read at the accelerometer numbers. now turn it 180 degrees -- are both X & Y numbers the same? really close? calibrate. nowhere near? averge the numbers between each reading to get an average X & Y -- that is your level value. slip sheets of paper under the skids until you get close to the averages then calibrate.
Once both props and board are level to the ground, you know they're level to each other . . . but what if it still drifts on a windless day?!? you should now be in range of a few clicks of trim on the radio. If you're putting in only a couple of clicks of trim and not a dozen or so, your airframe is likely performing "level" well.
Blu-Vector
Junior Member
I am really thankfull of all of your explaination.
Sensor is ok, and no warpen booms.
The result of trigghering is this:
There are 12 clicks on yaw and pitch, 5-6 clicks from the zero of the kkboard.
But i am not satisfied, i would really love to have a tricopter i dont have to compensate with command , i would like to get a stable behaviour and position when i leave the comand. The behaviour on this video is what i expect from a non-autoleveled fly, but in this case, it is. Is there any other tips i could use to get a stable fly?
Is there any guide i can follow for the tips you gave me for props calibration and angle ? I'm sorry but i cant get some part of the explaination.
This isn't a fair test. You're barely getting out of what's called ground effect, by flying so low.
The tilt down to the left is common, especially if you're using all the same direction of propellers.
The auto level isn't perfect on these systems, and it doesn't keep them in one spot, it just helps keep the aircraft from rolling or pitching too much.
The tilt down to the left is common, especially if you're using all the same direction of propellers.
The auto level isn't perfect on these systems, and it doesn't keep them in one spot, it just helps keep the aircraft from rolling or pitching too much.
Blu-Vector
Junior Member
Following the bakke video about kk2 board i'v reached this result
The tri is really hard to move from the position, and the position is quite stable, quite impressive, the problem is that everthing mess up when i try to fly...
The tri is really hard to move from the position, and the position is quite stable, quite impressive, the problem is that everthing mess up when i try to fly...
What happens exactly? Any video of flying off the stand?
Blu-Vector
Junior Member
I dont know if i'm the noob, and not having the required flying skills , but the tri just go fast forward when i fly, i never get a stable and linear takeoff, it allways pitch forward, when it's not pitching forward is rolling some side. It's really a mess to fly. Dunno what to try...
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Blu-Vector
Junior Member
I will try with ccw and cw, can someone give me some tips to buy CW + CCW props on hobbyking? EU Wharehouse. Thanks.
Blu, since it looks like you're using the DT750's you want to find the 11x4.7 slow fly props. They aren't listed as CW or CCW, they have the standard, and they have RH (right hand rotation) ones.
I would recommend getting different colors. I like to fly with two greens in front, and a black in back. I use a standard rotation in the back (they're easier to find) and one green CW, and one green CCW in the front.
It helps with orientation.
Make sure you use the same brand on all three. It doesn't really matter which brand you use, but each brand has a slightly different shape, weight, and airfoil for their brand of prop. So you don't want to mix those.
I would recommend getting different colors. I like to fly with two greens in front, and a black in back. I use a standard rotation in the back (they're easier to find) and one green CW, and one green CCW in the front.
It helps with orientation.
Make sure you use the same brand on all three. It doesn't really matter which brand you use, but each brand has a slightly different shape, weight, and airfoil for their brand of prop. So you don't want to mix those.
Blu-Vector
Junior Member
Got it FlyingMonkey, thanks. I tryed using 10mm longher booms 48cm, instead 15mm boom Front: 35cm Back: 37cm , and it's really "vibrating a lot" but hell it's more stable!
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