Help! 3D Printed wing spars?

Alec

New member
About 3 months ago I built a ft mustang and it was a very good plane but one of the servos broke and the plane crashed :(. I want to build another one and modify it a bit so I was thinking if it could be possible to 3d print a wing spar that connects the 2 wings together. I was wondering if anyone had done this and would this affect performance much?
 

LitterBug

Techno Nut
Moderator
A 3D printed spar is not going to add much rigidity. You would be better off using a carbon tube.

LB
 

Piotrsko

Master member
You buy the carbon tube that is the appropriate diameter as the spar and glue it in just like the original spar. Otoh, you can use a thinner spar and add stuff to it. top , bottom, or both
 

Alec

New member
You buy the carbon tube that is the appropriate diameter as the spar and glue it in just like the original spar. Otoh, you can use a thinner spar and add stuff to it. top , bottom, or both
The spars in the wing are square.
Even though carbon fiber is good i think 3d printing it would at least make it stiffer than the regular foam ones.
 

Combat20

New member
The foam spar is adequate, but if you must have a stronger spar here are some options: carbon round tube as suggested, carbon square tube, yard stick (lighter type), foam epoxied to lite ply, etc.
 

Merv

Site Moderator
Staff member
I use bamboo skewers to join all of my wings. Before joining the wing, I dig a slot for the skewers in the top and bottom skin of the wing. The skewers need to above & below the foam spar. The idea is to make an I beam with the skewers being the top & bottom of the beam with the foam spar in between.

I like high G maneuvers, like the square loop. I have broken in flight one skewer joints, but so far have not yet been able to break two skewer joints. That is two on the top & two on the bottom.
 

Alec

New member
I use bamboo skewers to join all of my wings. Before joining the wing, I dig a slot for the skewers in the top and bottom skin of the wing. The skewers need to above & below the foam spar. The idea is to make an I beam with the skewers being the top & bottom of the beam with the foam spar in between.

I like high G maneuvers, like the square loop. I have broken in flight one skewer joints, but so far have not yet been able to break two skewer joints. That is two on the top & two on the bottom.
The wings on the mustang have some dihedral so should i bend the bamboo skewers or try to stick them in straight on both sides?

while doing rolls and quick turns the wings did bend .
 
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Alec

New member
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I have modeled some wing spars in fusion 360 and ill make some grooves where the wings join so i can stick a bamboo skewer in


but would 3d printing it make the plane too heavy? It will be around 55 grams of filament per spar
 
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Merv

Site Moderator
Staff member
The wings on the mustang have some dihedral so should i bend the bamboo skewers or try to stick them in straight on both sides?...
A bit of dihedral is no problem, the bamboo will easily bend to accommodate. Some of my wings will have an inch or so of dihedral, but I'm sure there is a limit.
 

skymaster

Elite member
WOW no one likes to woodwork anymore. you could get a piece of plywood and a jigsaw and just cut it out. how about making it out of popsicle sticks. here is one that it's been on my head for a long time maybe someone could answer it. has any one ever put fishing string from one side of one wing to the other. just like like a real plane uses cables to hold the wings. could this work?
 

Flying Monkey fab

Elite member
WOW no one likes to woodwork anymore.
I wouldn’t say that. People just think down the road they are familiar with.
Wood is good, probably better than 3d print but let’s not discourage exermentation!

has any one ever put fishing string from one side of one wing to the other. just
I bought some spectra thinking just this and havn’t had the use case for it yet. From my futzing around with it it looks like the hard part will be tieing it at specific lengths. Will probably require some type of jig. You can also use push/pull rods this way, that’s been done since forever.
 

Alec

New member
WOW no one likes to woodwork anymore. you could get a piece of plywood and a jigsaw and just cut it out. how about making it out of popsicle sticks. here is one that it's been on my head for a long time maybe someone could answer it. has any one ever put fishing string from one side of one wing to the other. just like like a real plane uses cables to hold the wings. could this work?
I don't really have the tools for that and im not so experienced with building planes and all that, the mustang was the first plane i built and before that i got the 3d printer so i had lots of ideas with what i could use it for.

I dont even have much space, i built my plane on the floor and my small table lol
 
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Piotrsko

Master member
Back in the day, we used "string tape" only on the bottom to increase rigidity. Works up until the foam compression strength is exceeded

Too much diehederal is when the wing tips touch
 

Shurik-1960

Well-known member
I have been doing an experiment for a long time: I glued double-sided tape on a simple T-shaped spar. The wings withstood huge overloads and did not break, although the upper and lower shelves had cracks. For 4 years now, instead of spars, I have been using the tips of fishing rods, which are very light and durable. You can see in the photo's section: "does anyone do it in the evening"
 

Laszlo

New member
I don't really have the tools for that and im not so experienced with building planes and all that, the mustang was the first plane i built and before that i got the 3d printer so i had lots of ideas with what i could use it for.

I dont even have much space, i built my plane on the floor and my small table lol
If you have razor knife and a steel rule you have the tools. 1/8" plywood or thinner can be cut with repeated strokes of a razor knife. When combined with a steel rule to keep the cuts straight, it's as precise as a laser cutter, a lot cheaper and doesn't stink of burnt wood.

Lots of light cuts are your friend. Don't try to cut through all at once. Lay the steel rule on the wood on the cut line and run the razor along the edge of the rule. Start off just scratching the wood. Once you get a nice straight scratch established, do it again with a bit more pressure. Repeat until you're through the wood.

A few credit card sized pieces of sandpaper are all that you need to finish the piece. If you need a thicker piece of wood, cut out 2 pieces and glue them together with wood glue to double the thickness. Repeat as needed.

You can use this technique on plywood, popsicle sticks, tongue depressors, craft sticks, etc. If you're using short pieces of wood, you can glue them up into laminated beams to make longer ones. Just make a 2-layer (or more) piece where each layer acts as the backing for the other layer's butt joints.

Finally, don't forget that i-beams and u-channels will give you a lot of stiffness without a lot of material. Look at the standard Flitetest u-channel foam wing spar. That same shape laminated from tongue depressors will be much stronger and only require straight cuts with a razor.