Gorilla seems to have a bit of a marketing identify crisis -- there are may Gorilla brand glues, but only the original and white Gorilla glues are unique products. Everything else they sell is a knockoff formulation -- perhaps good knockoffs, but if someone is steering you toward Gorilla brand, if it's not the original or white, "better" is pretty much hype.
Gorilla super glue and Gorilla super glue gel are both (as the name implies) CA glues -- one medium, one thick, neither friendly to foam.
Gorilla wood glue is a PVA glue similar to Titebond. A good, slow-curing, strong, water based glue that holds dimensional stability (doesn't foam). Nice glue for building balsa, but foamboard, the water in the glue will do nasty things to the paper skins.
Gorilla Epoxy is . . . Epoxy. Epoxy has it's place among foamboard builds, but more often than not it's not worth the trouble. With a 1-2hr build, is it worth breaking out the 5 min epoxy that needs a few hours to fully cure? Even Gorilla glue is done in 30.
Gorilla sealant? silicone calking. Not much to write home about . . . unless you like gorillas.
The standard and white Gorilla glues are a foaming polyurethane glues. These are the unique products, that fit our projects well enough to be a slightly-slower-build alternative to hot glue. each are slightly different formulations of the same sticky goo and both are water activated, but the solvents in the glue are pretty mild and harmless to foam. The glue foams into the foam (so long as the parts are braced and seams taped up) so the bond can be super strong and deep. the original (brown) doesn't foam as much, so while it may be a touch less messy (if you don't mind the brown) the joints are also a touch less strong . . . but still stronger than DTFB.