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Bloody Baron landing gear

Figure9

Well-known member
#7
We're do you keep the battery in flight?
The Gens Ace 3s 2200 mAh battery fits nicely inside the swappable power pack almost all the way forward. If the tail were any heavier I’d need to move the wing or extend the nose to balance it properly. 1st noticed this on the Bloody Baron design I built from an FT kit. Doing this model I used the same fuselage as the bloody Baron with the belly rails shaved off, a thinner tapered folded wing/aileron design & the tail redesigned & smaller. All that messed with the balance but luck was with me & it fell into a good balance point. I need to use tested plans in the future until I get experience building DTFB models. Figure9
 

Figure9

Well-known member
#9
Here is an Idea, for whatever it is worth.
Thanks Keno, I thought about doing it that way but I didn’t think it important to steer the tail wheel. All I wanted to do was save props because I was breaking one every flight (Newbie syndrome). I set up a prop inhibit switch when I later found out such a thing existed & would have saved a few props if I’d known about it (if I’d been thoughtful enough under pressure to switch it to cutoff before the crash).
 

BATTLEAXE

Well-known member
#10
Thanks Keno, I thought about doing it that way but I didn’t think it important to steer the tail wheel. All I wanted to do was save props because I was breaking one every flight (Newbie syndrome). I set up a prop inhibit switch when I later found out such a thing existed & would have saved a few props if I’d known about it (if I’d been thoughtful enough under pressure to switch it to cutoff before the crash).
I see you are using the APC electric only props, I found the sport props are much stronger to hits. I have used the electric only props in the past and broke every one on the second or third flight at most. I have sport props from APC that I have had for months in many different planes. Just a tip for ya:D(y)
 

Figure9

Well-known member
#11
I see you are using the APC electric only props, I found the sport props are much stronger to hits. I have used the electric only props in the past and broke every one on the second or third flight at most. I have sport props from APC that I have had for months in many different planes. Just a tip for ya:D(y)
Thanks BATTLEAXE. The prop with the kit were fragile. Haha. I tried the APC Elec only props because they’re advertised as a different compound that’s sturdier. I had one on the Bloody Baron’s devastating 45 degree full throttle auger into pavement crash, it didn’t break! I was amazed. I’ll give the Sport props from APC a try on my next order. My next flight with the Bloody Mess will be buddy boxed. The leap from Champ RTF to Bloody Baron was biting off a bit too much to chew. The Bloody Mess might have even higher performance characteristics, maybe, sort of. Figure9
 

BATTLEAXE

Well-known member
#12
Thanks BATTLEAXE. The prop with the kit were fragile. Haha. I tried the APC Elec only props because they’re advertised as a different compound that’s sturdier. I had one on the Bloody Baron’s devastating 45 degree full throttle auger into pavement crash, it didn’t break! I was amazed. I’ll give the Sport props from APC a try on my next order. My next flight with the Bloody Mess will be buddy boxed. The leap from Champ RTF to Bloody Baron was biting off a bit too much to chew. The Bloody Mess might have even higher performance characteristics, maybe, sort of. Figure9
What size of prop are you using? Looks to be a 9" but what's the pitch? And what's the motor size, is it a C pack?
 

BATTLEAXE

Well-known member
#14
I’m using a ‘B’ Power Pack with 9X4.5 prop. Same size as came with the Bloody Baron kit.
The Baron or any combat plane, as I have made a few, will fly fast. The small wing and stabilizers have a minimal drag profile to the oncoming air so they do have very fast capabilities, plus the wings and coupling being short they will roll and pitch very easily, hence why they are good for combat, super maneuverable.

What I found though that is if you put the CG a little further back, by say just a half inch, these combat planes will make good solid trainers too. You said you have your battery almost all the way to the front of the pod, move that back some until the CG is a centimeter or so back from where it is now and fly at around 50-60% throttle only. just to slow things down. If you punch it, it will pitch up of course, but this will give you a higher angle of attack on your wing and create more drag to help keep the plane slower. It will look and feel weird at first but if you get used to it, it will help you practice for coordinated landings as well.

Another thing is you could probably afford to dial the rates on your control surfaces down as well, and add some expo. I have found that on all the combat planes I have built, just for fun flying around I keep it on low rates. Again the short coupling and short wing span on large control surfaces you don't need much to coordinate the plane. All you need would be 1-1.5 thickness of FB of throw from center to control the plane. That's plenty for training. You can even adjust this either with your programming in your Tx or mechanically at your servos by connecting your pushrods closer to the servo on the servo arm and further out on the control horn.

Do you use dual rates and expo?
 

Figure9

Well-known member
#15
The Baron or any combat plane, as I have made a few, will fly fast. The small wing and stabilizers have a minimal drag profile to the oncoming air so they do have very fast capabilities, plus the wings and coupling being short they will roll and pitch very easily, hence why they are good for combat, super maneuverable.

What I found though that is if you put the CG a little further back, by say just a half inch, these combat planes will make good solid trainers too. You said you have your battery almost all the way to the front of the pod, move that back some until the CG is a centimeter or so back from where it is now and fly at around 50-60% throttle only. just to slow things down. If you punch it, it will pitch up of course, but this will give you a higher angle of attack on your wing and create more drag to help keep the plane slower. It will look and feel weird at first but if you get used to it, it will help you practice for coordinated landings as well.

Another thing is you could probably afford to dial the rates on your control surfaces down as well, and add some expo. I have found that on all the combat planes I have built, just for fun flying around I keep it on low rates. Again the short coupling and short wing span on large control surfaces you don't need much to coordinate the plane. All you need would be 1-1.5 thickness of FB of throw from center to control the plane. That's plenty for training. You can even adjust this either with your programming in your Tx or mechanically at your servos by connecting your pushrods closer to the servo on the servo arm and further out on the control horn.

Do you use dual rates and expo?
Sent you a DM.