Bloody WWII Baby!
- Thread starter BossBluff
- Start date
BossBluff
Simple is fast.
Yes. I've flown them extensively with A and F pack motors. They ARE different, but they both perform. Your best bet is to experiment with prop and battery combinations to find something that suits your style and performance expectations.
BossBluff
Simple is fast.
Exactly!! For me, its like the vacu-form Halloween masks and costumes from the 70's. Super-Realistic? NO, but that didn't matter. It was all about fun and imagination. You can use @Sponz amazing recipe to create nearly anything you want to fly.
synjin
Elite member
Here is a 150% Bloody P-40. I'll try to maiden it later this week (raining like crazy today). Why blue fanfold foam? 'Cause I still have a bunch, and it's good for experimenting.
Edit: Finally maiddened it. Flies great! I put a 3 blade 6x4 prop on it, and that is a 2212 2200KV motor. Goes vertical on a 3s 1300maH battery. Had to move the ESC to get better air flow.
Edit: Now the P-40 has a friend, a 150% F4F Navy Cat. Both of them are fun to fly.
Edit: Finally maiddened it. Flies great! I put a 3 blade 6x4 prop on it, and that is a 2212 2200KV motor. Goes vertical on a 3s 1300maH battery. Had to move the ESC to get better air flow.
Edit: Now the P-40 has a friend, a 150% F4F Navy Cat. Both of them are fun to fly.
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It's really quick to put one of these Bloody P-40s together!
Step 1: White Gorilla Glue on the fuselage, doublers, and wing spar:
Step 2: White Gorilla Glue on the trailing edge of the wing, wing to fuselage, and tail pieces
Step 3: Add a firewall and motor!
I had a Black Widow 2216 laying around that should swing a 9x6 on 3s - should be plenty of vertical power!
Should finish up this weekend and be ready for the club's streamer combat event next weekend
Step 1: White Gorilla Glue on the fuselage, doublers, and wing spar:
Step 2: White Gorilla Glue on the trailing edge of the wing, wing to fuselage, and tail pieces
Step 3: Add a firewall and motor!
I had a Black Widow 2216 laying around that should swing a 9x6 on 3s - should be plenty of vertical power!
Should finish up this weekend and be ready for the club's streamer combat event next weekend
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mrjdstewart
Legendary member
just re-found this thread. couldn't help myself but to build one. guess i didn't pay close enough attention to the "baby" part of the post. this thing is tiny!
i think i should come in around 220g AUW and using a 3S battery and a 5x3 prop i will have 600+ grams of thrust. if i go to 6x4 it's almost 1000g total!
thank goodness this will be my new FPV rocket because i could never keep up with something this small with that much power LOS.
will add diff thrust and dial back the elevator. i feel this thing is going to be "pitchy."
laters,
me
i think i should come in around 220g AUW and using a 3S battery and a 5x3 prop i will have 600+ grams of thrust. if i go to 6x4 it's almost 1000g total!
thank goodness this will be my new FPV rocket because i could never keep up with something this small with that much power LOS.
will add diff thrust and dial back the elevator. i feel this thing is going to be "pitchy."
laters,
me
good looking little plane there. Make me want to pull the Baby Bloody Black Widow back out and get it setup to fly right
mrjdstewart
Legendary member
it is finished.
i made several changes to the plans;
1- the V3 plans do not have the boom alignment slots on either side of the wing. i had to eyeball mine. @Rasterize is printing me another set of plans that have them correct placement so if this one eats the dirt, i will just build another.
2- i did not hack slots into the booms to allow for the ailerons to have downward movement. i thought the booms were the weakest link to begin with and did not want to compromise them anymore. the plans were really vague on this and i'm glad i waited until it was assembled before i did anything. if i build another i will be adding at least 2" to the length of the booms, in my opinion they are way to short. i know why they did it (1 sheet of foam), but i will spend the extra $1 and make it better.
3- due to me not hacking in the slots i had to add another aileron servo so that i could run a dual setup with differential. this allows me to to limit the downward movement of the aileron. basically when going right, the right goes up, the left does nothing. when going left the the left goes up, and the right nothing. no downward movement at all on the ailerons.
4- once again due to #2, i had to ditch my differential thrust. i only have a 6 channel RX and the 2nd aileron channel is using the Aux1. i have not figured out how to run them both on a 6-channel RX. i tried to use the gear channel but that was on or off, depending upon switch. i tried to use the unused rudder channel but had nothing but troubles. as it sits now it has a y-cable linking the 2 motors with counter rotating props.
5- the weight came in higher than i wanted. the new AUW is now 292g. that still puts me at a 2-1 thrust to weight with this prop setup but depending upon how it flies i may switch over the the 6x4.5 to gain the extra 300+ grams of thrust.
the final setup is;
2 x 1806-2280kv RaceStar motors
2 x 5x4.5 CF counter rotating props
2 x 12A BLHeli ESC
1 x 3S-850mah Lipo
3 x 5g servos
1 x 6-channel RX
my biggest concern, other than the short length (pitchy-ness) and the current lack of yaw control, is the fact that i think the ailerons will be blanking out half of my elevator at any point during the flight. again due to the short length, especially at full throws. i think extending the booms a few inches would greatly help with this.
the plan is to add a bigger RX with more channels and solve at least the differential thrust and yaw control. cant fly low and fast without it...
we will see what happens tomorrow, maybe i have it all wrong.
laters,
me
i made several changes to the plans;
1- the V3 plans do not have the boom alignment slots on either side of the wing. i had to eyeball mine. @Rasterize is printing me another set of plans that have them correct placement so if this one eats the dirt, i will just build another.
2- i did not hack slots into the booms to allow for the ailerons to have downward movement. i thought the booms were the weakest link to begin with and did not want to compromise them anymore. the plans were really vague on this and i'm glad i waited until it was assembled before i did anything. if i build another i will be adding at least 2" to the length of the booms, in my opinion they are way to short. i know why they did it (1 sheet of foam), but i will spend the extra $1 and make it better.
3- due to me not hacking in the slots i had to add another aileron servo so that i could run a dual setup with differential. this allows me to to limit the downward movement of the aileron. basically when going right, the right goes up, the left does nothing. when going left the the left goes up, and the right nothing. no downward movement at all on the ailerons.
4- once again due to #2, i had to ditch my differential thrust. i only have a 6 channel RX and the 2nd aileron channel is using the Aux1. i have not figured out how to run them both on a 6-channel RX. i tried to use the gear channel but that was on or off, depending upon switch. i tried to use the unused rudder channel but had nothing but troubles. as it sits now it has a y-cable linking the 2 motors with counter rotating props.
5- the weight came in higher than i wanted. the new AUW is now 292g. that still puts me at a 2-1 thrust to weight with this prop setup but depending upon how it flies i may switch over the the 6x4.5 to gain the extra 300+ grams of thrust.
the final setup is;
2 x 1806-2280kv RaceStar motors
2 x 5x4.5 CF counter rotating props
2 x 12A BLHeli ESC
1 x 3S-850mah Lipo
3 x 5g servos
1 x 6-channel RX
my biggest concern, other than the short length (pitchy-ness) and the current lack of yaw control, is the fact that i think the ailerons will be blanking out half of my elevator at any point during the flight. again due to the short length, especially at full throws. i think extending the booms a few inches would greatly help with this.
the plan is to add a bigger RX with more channels and solve at least the differential thrust and yaw control. cant fly low and fast without it...
we will see what happens tomorrow, maybe i have it all wrong.
laters,
me
Plans are fine. Just don't open them and print from Adobe Illustrator. Adobe Acrobat did them fine.
4- I'm not sure what transmitter you have, but I routinely have Diff thrust and all the normal 4 channels without a problem. As with this model setup you don't have a rudder, you should be able to plug the second motor to the gear channel. Slave the gear channel to Throttle. Than have a mix where the Rudder stick input provides thrust differential to the throttle and rudder channel, from inputs on the rudder channel. Or plug Engine 2 to gear. and set it up like FliteTest has in their vid. (or least this can help you get started.) consult your manual or go on the forums for your radio. Someone there has done it. I have a radiolink AT10. NO ONE uses it, but that is how I learned to set mine up. (I have done a similar thing with the Jumper TS8G I have, just more involved as you need activate input channels for each model) you may have to remap ch5 away from Aux1. the hard work is in the mixing.
Learning how to set this up is worth the trouble it causes. You will at least have a better understanding of how your transmitter works and what you can do. (I'm still figuring mine out. I just put a new model with glider model template with flaps....
and I think I entered a new country within my transmitter. (there are 5 sub modes, I don't even know You could do, or how to switch between yet). Keep at it!5- Holy Cr@p that will be fast! talk about Speed Building.
Well done. God Speed and good luck to you.
mrjdstewart
Legendary member
i tried slaving the gear to the throttle/rudder but is was an on/off type situation. if the gear switch was down i had no motor on that side, if the switch was up it was running non-stop. no actual control. i messed around with trying to use the rudder channel but in the end just decided to get a RX with more channels.
the airplane flew like a dream. came right out fo the hands and straight up into the air. i don't even remember having to do any trimming. i was amazed at how stable and controllable it was. i really thought due to the short length that it was going to be a handful, could not have been more wrong. i kept it in the air for 5 mins and when i checked i still had 11.4v in the battery so just about perfect. i was also pleasantly surprised by how well the ailerons worked. on full rates it would roll with relative ease.
the plan for today is to add the new 9-channel RX and get my thrust differential back so i can fly it FPV tomorrow.
should hopefully have some pics before too long and will post when i do.
laters,
me
the airplane flew like a dream. came right out fo the hands and straight up into the air. i don't even remember having to do any trimming. i was amazed at how stable and controllable it was. i really thought due to the short length that it was going to be a handful, could not have been more wrong. i kept it in the air for 5 mins and when i checked i still had 11.4v in the battery so just about perfect. i was also pleasantly surprised by how well the ailerons worked. on full rates it would roll with relative ease.
the plan for today is to add the new 9-channel RX and get my thrust differential back so i can fly it FPV tomorrow.
should hopefully have some pics before too long and will post when i do.
laters,
me
Javiester
Elite member
Building the Nose and Cowl for the I-16
View attachment 102878
Here we have the Cowl formers in place.
(Note the slight angle of the Power pod skewers. This Air-frame uses a modified Power pod and doesn't use the "C" fold piece.)
The scrap foam board piece is used on the left side to support the cowl when inserting the skewers.
Mount your Power Pod at this time.
View attachment 102879
A view from below. Note the skewer stop, also made from scrap foam board.
This should keep the skewers from poking through the cowl on the right side.
View attachment 102880
Another view of the finished former assembly. The skewers shown are for fitting purposes only.
View attachment 102881
Temporarily hold the cowl paper in place. Mark the skewer locations and poke a hole through on the left side only.
Glue down the cowl at the top center of both formers.
Apply a small bead of glue to the formers on one side and seal down.
Do the same to the other side.
The bottom edges of the cowl will wrap around the bottom of the Fuselage, glue them down as well.
The cowl paper is a little long in front so you may have to trim it back flush with the former.
View attachment 102882
Next, cut out and De-paper the two Nose pieces.
You may skip cutting out the cylinder cut-outs if you wish. I made them to add more visual detail.
Glue them to the front former. Try to center them as best you can.
Make sure the nose doesn't fowl the motor. Trim away any foam if it does.
When the glue is completely dry, sand the nose pieces to shape.
Finish off with a coating Water based Poly-U and Talcum powder, sand smooth when dry.
Cut you Power pod skewers to length and install your Power pod.
I leave my skewers about 1/4" long and add a drop of Hot glue to the ends so I can grasp them for easy removal.
I hope this makes some sense. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
Cheers
Tom G.
Did you finish the Polikarpov?
did you get to fly it?
