BATTLEAXE
Legendary member
I use the utility flags all the time, and yes they are thicker for linkage steppers, but then again I never use linkage steppers, more room for failure.
Build, learn, repeat...
- Thread starter Jeffo
- Start date
RustySocket
Active member
Drill out the linkage stopper?
Dubro used to make ones for 2-56 and also 4-40 sized rods as well.
RustySocket
Active member
I like the utility flag idea, never thought of that before as a pushrod source. Used to use bicycle spokes and a modified spoke nipple soldered to a clevis on the threaded end for some adjustability on the control horn end and a z bend on the servo end.
BATTLEAXE
Legendary member
The utility flags do work well, easier to form then the music wire and little lighter I think. I will do the Z bend at the servo first, then lay the wire across the hinge at the horn location. Create the Z bend right at the hinge, then based on where the Z bend is, this will tell me where to install the control horn. It's all linear in the installation process. Super simple, works every time. This is the process John Overstreet used on the MS Spit build vid for the ailerons if you want to see the routine. The cool part is that if you can't get it perfectly centered this way you have a bunch of sub-trim to play with, and sub trim has a wide range of movement. Out of 0-100% of range in sub-trim, i usually only end up using 15-20% to get it bang on center visually, then there is usually trimming in flight because after all they are just foam planes. I have never used a linkage stopper and have never had a control surface failure
RustySocket
Active member
@BATTLEAXE
I like that idea, clean and simple. I just never thought of it like that. I come from many years of scratch building balsa planes so the control horns were centered perfectly over the hinge line and installed in advance. In cases where you are running two linkages from one servo to ailerons for example you needed adjustability somewhere to get the control surfaces parallel and if the horn wasn't centered over the hinge line you ended up with throws that were not equal. But in the case of these simpler less precise builds waiting until the end to level the control surface and then glue the horn in makes perfect sense and no need for stoppers (or anything other than z bends for that matter). The small discrepancies are negligible and makes the build that much easier. Great tip and explanation and keeps the cost way down. I'm old and stuck in old ways of thinking so these kind of ideas help open my eyes.... in my day the threaded clevis, was the subtrim... (the radios didn't have any)
BATTLEAXE
Legendary member
I was doing it the old FT way and trying to fit the wire control rod between two fixed points, and I always ended up with varied results. By doing the install process that way it is much more accurate and consistent. Especially when you use a Y connector for the aileron control, it really limits your adjustments, and if that's the case linkage stoppers kinda make sense. You then have the adjustment of one aileron over the other, but using a dual aileron set up the linkage stoppers aren't needed. Even with the elevator or rudder, because each have there own servo and signal port, lineage stoppers aren't needed at all.
They aren't really frowned upon, they are just over used. People tend to depend on them out of habit when there are much more simple ways to set things up. They do have their place in specific ways but it just complicates the build and like I mentioned before it is another level of failure. If you think about it, what do you think would happen if the set screw, or the mounting nut came loose mid flight, a couple of simple Z bends eliminates this problem.
Where does everyone store their planes? My “hangar” is currently a basement washroom! Some on the wall, others stacked on top of one another on the floor. Does high/low heat affect electronics (excluding batteries)? I have a dry, though uninsulated, shed I could utilize.
Attachments
I’m using the 30a yellow esc from amazon in all my planes, except the first one I built, which has an FT. Given how little I knew when I first got into this, I bought 4 lipos with xt30 connectors assuming that was a very common connector. The amazon esc comes with dean connectors. I have replaced a couple of the deans with xt30s, even though the wire gauge is much thicker than the xt30 solder pots. Seem to work ok, not sure about longevity though. To get a more solid connection, can I cut some strands at the joint to reduce the diameter? Seems there wouldn’t be an issue, but electronics have just never “clicked” in my brain for some reason, so figured I’d ask.
It’s not too bad a connection I don’t think, but definitely could be better. Haven’t sent anything up yet (currently -18 Celsius here!), but my guess is it won’t survive any anticipated beginner crashes.
I wonder why FT decided to use xt30 for their power packs. Really does limit the battery selection.
Last edited:
RustySocket
Active member
BATTLEAXE
Legendary member
What planes are you building or have built, The minis?
I’ve got a mini scout, which has the ft esc, so no issues there. I’d like to be able to use the same batteries in the tiny trainer, old fogey, speedster, and pietenpol. Might be easier just to buy more batteries with deans.
BATTLEAXE
Legendary member
I was gonna say because XT30 is all you need for any of the minis. You get into standard size planes XT60 is the way you want to go. Deans is decent, I use deans but I only fly standard size
Weather appears to be turning, so used up my remaining foamboard on an AP Eazy. The thrust angle is scrambling my brain. Since it’ll be using the power pod from my TT, I’ll be using a pusher prop so I don’t need to change the direction of the motor. The directions for the Eazy say to insert the power pod upside down to allow the esc to enter the fuselage. Makes sense. However, that reverses the thrust angle. Since I’m using a pusher prop, does that work in my favour? If my words aren’t making sense, refer to the pics 😜 Also, most glider/pushers seem to have an upward thrust angle, while the Eazy does not. Explain!🙂
Attachments
Piotrsko
Master member
On pushers, depends on whether the motor center is: at, above, or below center of wing thickness. Above wing needs motor THRUST pushing down, because that main thrust is trying hard to rotate the nose down. center needs nothing much, below needs motor thrust pushing up. The motor is attempting to rotate the wing around the CG and you need to minimize that either with control surface force or thrust.. Left or right thrust is for negating motor torque, you want thrust opposite direction of prop/ motor turning.
I think I know the answer, but I am also finding I know very little! I have an FS-i6X system. What I want to do is essentially be able to switch between stick modes 2 and 4 with one of the aux switches. I have a ft tiny trainer, and would like to switch between 3ch (right stick rudder) and 4ch (right stick aileron) without physically switching the servo leads. I think it’s probably not possible, so prove me wrong!
Similar threads
