Exponential
Junior Member
I was recently asked to do a build and fly with a local girl Scout troop, and the leader asked for a glider as the build. A search of the internet didn't really show much by way of simple, easy to build foam gliders so I set up the following criteria:
1. No more than 3 parts
2. DTF (what else!)
3. No cuts longer than 12" so a 1' steel ruler can be used
4. Flat plate
5. No tabs or slots
6. Flies reasonably indoors.
7. A novice can do it with some supervision.
9. Virtually indestructible. Okay, almost indestructible.
10. At least a little cool looking.
I had recently heard the FT podcast that talked about a simple chuck glider for kids, and I thought I'd try my hand at it, using the criteria. I started with the design of chaosMurphy in Bluecor based on one of the Kline paper airplanes, with the intent of using the KF airfoil to help make the design floatier, knowing it would be a little heavier in DTF.
The first attempts fared poorly with the standard dimension KFm2 foil on a diamond-shaped wing, and I then cut in the trailing edges to get more like the design I had seen in chaosMurphy's postings. Still not good, with too much pitch instability. I then added extended F15-like horizontal stabilizer extensions to get more moment; this was better but still pitched up too much. Adding more weight to the nose fixed the pitch, but it flared at the end of the glide and stalled. Maybe the KFm2 was providing too much lift, but removing them made things much worse. Since I had spray-glued the KFm2 steps in place, I started resizing them smaller and moving them around the wing until I got reasonable performance, still with some stall tendencies. I moved the launch skeg forward to reduce pitch-up on launching, and decided to model what I had in Sketchup and print some flat plans to do a DTF build.
The resulting plane had a slightly worse tendency to balloon on launch, and more nose weight helped a bit (up to 4 pennies by now!) The next variable to tune was the dihedral angle, and this proved important. reducing dihedral made the design balloon less, and at the current design angle it performs about as well as I need it to - one wall to the other in a gym. The design is simple enough that anyone can modify it and I'd encourage you to try your hand at improving the flight characteristics. I'm sure it could be made better with more tweaking.
View attachment 19857
Here's the build:
Bluecor tester, with moveable KFm plates:
And now the DTF build. The centerline is a cut almost all the way through, and I put a bead of hot glue on the back of and skimmed with a piece of scrap to make a strong midline:
These are the folds that attach the wings to the fuselage:
Now fold the fuse down the midline so the skimmed surface is on the inside. Skim the exposed top of the fusealge with hot glue to provide a sturdy top line:
Glue the KFm2 plates in, push the plate back so the paper is stretched out, it will form a nice angle on the top:
Glue on the little back plate to hold the angle of the fuse, and then the vertical stabilizer on top:
The throwing skeg is glued into the underside with the back end at 3 inches from the nose.
Final form. I used 5 pennies, with a dab of hot glue between and then taped into the nose.
Lastly, gluing a bit of skewer in the nose will reduce the damage from hard landings:
Have fun with it, let me know if the plans aren't scaled appropriately and I'll fix them. Use four (4) pennies in the nose.
Exponential
1. No more than 3 parts
2. DTF (what else!)
3. No cuts longer than 12" so a 1' steel ruler can be used
4. Flat plate
5. No tabs or slots
6. Flies reasonably indoors.
7. A novice can do it with some supervision.
9. Virtually indestructible. Okay, almost indestructible.
10. At least a little cool looking.
I had recently heard the FT podcast that talked about a simple chuck glider for kids, and I thought I'd try my hand at it, using the criteria. I started with the design of chaosMurphy in Bluecor based on one of the Kline paper airplanes, with the intent of using the KF airfoil to help make the design floatier, knowing it would be a little heavier in DTF.
The first attempts fared poorly with the standard dimension KFm2 foil on a diamond-shaped wing, and I then cut in the trailing edges to get more like the design I had seen in chaosMurphy's postings. Still not good, with too much pitch instability. I then added extended F15-like horizontal stabilizer extensions to get more moment; this was better but still pitched up too much. Adding more weight to the nose fixed the pitch, but it flared at the end of the glide and stalled. Maybe the KFm2 was providing too much lift, but removing them made things much worse. Since I had spray-glued the KFm2 steps in place, I started resizing them smaller and moving them around the wing until I got reasonable performance, still with some stall tendencies. I moved the launch skeg forward to reduce pitch-up on launching, and decided to model what I had in Sketchup and print some flat plans to do a DTF build.
The resulting plane had a slightly worse tendency to balloon on launch, and more nose weight helped a bit (up to 4 pennies by now!) The next variable to tune was the dihedral angle, and this proved important. reducing dihedral made the design balloon less, and at the current design angle it performs about as well as I need it to - one wall to the other in a gym. The design is simple enough that anyone can modify it and I'd encourage you to try your hand at improving the flight characteristics. I'm sure it could be made better with more tweaking.
View attachment 19857
Here's the build:
Bluecor tester, with moveable KFm plates:
And now the DTF build. The centerline is a cut almost all the way through, and I put a bead of hot glue on the back of and skimmed with a piece of scrap to make a strong midline:
These are the folds that attach the wings to the fuselage:
Now fold the fuse down the midline so the skimmed surface is on the inside. Skim the exposed top of the fusealge with hot glue to provide a sturdy top line:
Glue the KFm2 plates in, push the plate back so the paper is stretched out, it will form a nice angle on the top:
Glue on the little back plate to hold the angle of the fuse, and then the vertical stabilizer on top:
The throwing skeg is glued into the underside with the back end at 3 inches from the nose.
Final form. I used 5 pennies, with a dab of hot glue between and then taped into the nose.
Lastly, gluing a bit of skewer in the nose will reduce the damage from hard landings:
Have fun with it, let me know if the plans aren't scaled appropriately and I'll fix them. Use four (4) pennies in the nose.
Exponential
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