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Pumpkin drop event

Help! Eachine wizard x220 (problem with receiver and ESC)

#1
Hi

I just received my eachine wizard x220 and it went pretty well the first 2 flights. However, on the third flight, I barely touched a tree branch and the drone fell to the ground.

Once I arrived to it, I wasn't able to bind the controller to the drone anymore. I figured it was the receiver and I was right since it doesn't work anymore.( no flashing light for binding)

I was trying for a good 5-6 minutes to make it work but it was pointless.

About 10 minutes after that, I tried again and when I plugged in the battery, there was no beeping like it used to do earlier ( Every time you plug it, there 2 series of beeping, after the crash it was only doing the first serie). I unplugged it and plugged it again and smoke came out one of the ESC and then flames. I quickly unplugged everything and unsolder the damaged ESC. Put the drone away, order a new receiver and 4 new RaceStar ESC.

The problem is that I wonder, since there was no beeping the last time I plugged it, even though it was still beeping after the crash, if something else might be dammaged and if replacing the ESC's and the receiver will even work.

Thanks in advance
 

FDS

Well-known member
#2
You need to go about this logically. The most likely thing is that a wire has been pulled off the board.
First check all the connections visually, look for anything loose.
If that all looks OK then check the receiver power with a voltmeter, the red and black wires going to the plug or board are the power.
You should also remove your props and go into Betaflight, check the receivers tab to see if there’s a signal to the board from the RX.
You can also use the Motors tab to check the ESC’s, use the master slider to run the motors WITH PROPS OFF.
 
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#3
You need to go about this logically. The most likely thing is that a wire has been pulled off the board.
First check all the connections visually, look for anything loose.
If that all looks OK then check the receiver power with a voltmeter, the red and black wires going to the plug or board are the power.
You should also remove your props and go into Betaflight, check the receivers tab to see if there’s a signal to the board from the RX.
You can also use the Motors tab to check the ESC’s, use the master slider to run the motors WITH PROPS OFF.
I doubt you have broken an ESC, you are more likely to have damaged a wire.

Well I have a broken ESC for sure since on burst into flames.
When I slide the master slide for the motors, nothing happens. (I have unsoldered one of the ESC since it was burnt and I plugged it in the computer to see what it was all about, but nothing)
 

FDS

Well-known member
#4
Have you tried each motor in turn?
Have you checked every wire connection?
Was the receiver showing anything in Betaflight?
Also some clear, well lit pictures will help with finding your problem. To start with you will need to find a replacement esc but there might be other things contributing to the problem. You won’t need to replace all 4 esc’s, that’s the point of separate ones.
 

PsyBorg

Wake up! Time to fly!
Mentor
#5
Things to check are the motor that dinged the tree. If it was damaged it could easily have shorted the esc and set current thru the frame.

Shorted or broken wires, a bent bell, damage to the motor stator are all possible scenerios.

Check to see if there is continuity between motor and frame. The motor screws can complete that circuit if they are touching anything in the motor after taking a hit and have something bend or distort.

Take a real good look at the motor as its almost a garanteed loss if an esc shorts
 
#6
The motors seem to be in good shapes. Tomorow I'll buy a multimeter and check the continuity. I will also try to plug the battery again and plug it in betaflight and I'll take pictures once I took it apart as well (and from the betaflight screen since I'm not quite sure what to look for)
 
#8
Alright thanks, I'll start by making sure there's no short tomorow and then I'll proceed to check the other stuff.

Simple question, where should I check for shorts ? (the motors , the receiver board and the other board under it ? )
 

FDS

Well-known member
#9
Check the whole motor circuit, from the FC to the motor bell.
If you are going to keep plugging it in, make a Smoke Stopper. I have on with a 3A mini blade fuse in, its saved my gear several times.
 

PsyBorg

Wake up! Time to fly!
Mentor
#10
Alright thanks, I'll start by making sure there's no short tomorow and then I'll proceed to check the other stuff.

Simple question, where should I check for shorts ? (the motors , the receiver board and the other board under it ? )


Do those checks as well as checks to the side of the frame where there is no epoxy and can get readings.

Check power connector to motor screws and motor frame. Check across poles on input side of escs. Then from poles to each motor phase across each esc.

Finally check resistance between motor phases looking for variances in resistance more then a few milliohms.
Usually if there is a problem its a direct short between phases where the coating burned off the coils and shorted thus frying your esc and igniting it with a shot of full current your battery could produce.
 
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PsyBorg

Wake up! Time to fly!
Mentor
#12
Not really a necessity to carry a meter to the field unless you have room.

A quick field check to see if there is physical damage that could be hiding possible electrcal damage is to look at the gap between the base and the bell if you dont have open bottom motors and see if that gap changes when the motor is rotated by hand.

Not sure of an obvious check for open bottom motors.

Looking at the coils to see if some windings are darker then others is a good indicator of potential issues as well as smell. Hot motors smell different then melting / melted shelac on windings.
 
#13
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I haven't notice any shorts while doing my test with a multimeter so I presume nothing else was damage and it was just the ESC and receiver. I'll wait for my new ESC and receiver to arrive in about a month and if it still doesn't work, I will create a new thread.
Thank you for your replies
 

FDS

Well-known member
#14
Good luck getting flying again. I have found that there are several not Banggood suppliers that are in my country that can match or beat the China price without the shipping time, it might be worth looking for quicker sources of spares, plus if you support a seller in your country you are helping grow the domestic hobby.
 
#15
I 'll have one more question.
Since that one of my ESC burned and I unsoldered it + my receiver Fs-Ia6B not working. When I plug the quad in the computer and go in the motor tab nothing is working. I power up the motors from the computer but nothing is happening.

Also, there is no more beeping when I plug the battery in the quad. Could it be that since 1 ESC is missing, nothing else will work until I replace it. (when I only plug the board in the computer, there's a red light flashing as well as a blue, steady light
 

ElectriSean

Eternal Student
Mentor
#16
I 'll have one more question.
Since that one of my ESC burned and I unsoldered it + my receiver Fs-Ia6B not working. When I plug the quad in the computer and go in the motor tab nothing is working. I power up the motors from the computer but nothing is happening.

Also, there is no more beeping when I plug the battery in the quad. Could it be that since 1 ESC is missing, nothing else will work until I replace it. (when I only plug the board in the computer, there's a red light flashing as well as a blue, steady light
The ESC's should initialize and beep as soon as you power them up. All 4 motors/ESC's produce the beeps, so if you're missing one it will just be slightly quieter. Make sure they are getting battery voltage.
 
#17
The ESC's should initialize and beep as soon as you power them up. All 4 motors/ESC's produce the beeps, so if you're missing one it will just be slightly quieter. Make sure they are getting battery voltage.

From what I can tell, there is continuity from the battery cable to the ESC's but still none of them produce beeps

But there's no continuity from the battery cable to the tiny cable under de motor (is it normal)?
 
#18
I've come to a realisation, there's no voltage going to the FC, LED, ESC etc... which means the PDB is fried. I'll get myself a new one as well as a new receiver and ESC and when I receive them I'll change everything hoping for the best,
 

PsyBorg

Wake up! Time to fly!
Mentor
#19
Do your continuity checks again before applying power. The short could still exist and it hapoened to burn the circuit open. Giving an illusion of no shorts.

In the mean time while you wait for parts build yourself a smoke stopper.