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Firefeather Rocket Glider/DLG/Hotliner

FoamyDM

Building Fool-Flying Noob
#21
Amazing look it looks like it will be a screamer! good luck.
is there a reverse rocket to eject it from the tube mount?
 

FAI-F1D

Free Flight Indoorist
#22
@wilmracer, this thread has the DLG program I recommend for Frsky.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/sho...-rich-predictable-DLG-program-for-the-Taranis

It does require a little research for the launch, zoom, etc modes. I run about 1/32" reflex for launch, zoom, and speed, 0 for cruise, and 1/16" camber for thermal mode. The mode should be trimmed dead neutral in zoom mode and speed. I like about 25 degrees down and 15-20 up on the ailerons. Landing mode is as much down travel as you can get, usually 45-50 degrees, with about 10, maybe 15 down elevator.

I put the throttle on a slider on the left that my index finger can reach, the launch switch (for hand launch, not rocket) on a spring loaded switch also on left for index finger (where you'd have a trainer switch), mode switch above that, and default is for theatre stick to run flaps for landing.
 

wilmracer

I build things that fly (sometimes)
Mentor
#23
Amazing look it looks like it will be a screamer! good luck.
is there a reverse rocket to eject it from the tube mount?
So there is a clip that SHOULD catch the motor if it has an ejection charge, but I would still need to cut a hole to let the exhaust out. I'm still thinking about how I want to do the rocket launches. A club member swears by scraping the ejection charge out of the back of estes engines. I was going to run that by @FAI-F1D. I think he recommends re-loadable tubes without ejection ports and I'm going to look into that
 

wilmracer

I build things that fly (sometimes)
Mentor
#24
@wilmracer, this thread has the DLG program I recommend for Frsky.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/sho...-rich-predictable-DLG-program-for-the-Taranis

It does require a little research for the launch, zoom, etc modes. I run about 1/32" reflex for launch, zoom, and speed, 0 for cruise, and 1/16" camber for thermal mode. The mode should be trimmed dead neutral in zoom mode and speed. I like about 25 degrees down and 15-20 up on the ailerons. Landing mode is as much down travel as you can get, usually 45-50 degrees, with about 10, maybe 15 down elevator.

I put the throttle on a slider on the left that my index finger can reach, the launch switch (for hand launch, not rocket) on a spring loaded switch also on left for index finger (where you'd have a trainer switch), mode switch above that, and default is for theatre stick to run flaps for landing.
Cool! That will give me a place to start :)

On edit... lol, so this little bird will be the most complex thing I've setup on the Horus by FAR! I'm still a Horus noob though. Also will take some getting used to the various options for DLG.
 
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TooJung2Die

Well-known member
#25
A club member swears by scraping the ejection charge out of the back of estes engines.
Doesn't Estes still make first stage engines? They have no ejection charge. They burn through and send flames forward just before they're spent to ignite the upper stage engine. You'll need flame proofing in the engine tube so it doesn't catch fire. Scraping out the ejection charge is taking a single stage engine and making it into a first stage engine and you'll have the forward shooting flames anyway.
jon
 

FAI-F1D

Free Flight Indoorist
#26
Doesn't Estes still make first stage engines? They have no ejection charge. They burn through and send flames forward just before they're spent to ignite the upper stage engine. You'll need flame proofing in the engine tube so it doesn't catch fire. Scraping out the ejection charge is taking a single stage engine and making it into a first stage engine and you'll have the forward shooting flames anyway.
jon
The main thing with booster engines is that you still have to cut an exhaust hole in the motor mount, or the engine will actually eject at burnout. Not good on a DLG since it'll punch through the vertical tail.

My tests showed that all you have to is cut the hole, though, because the burn through doesn't scorch the exhaust hole significantly. The plugged Aerotech C and D reloads are still the best way to go...this plane will launch to 400'+ on D2.3 reloads, and in a really smooth, controllable flight at that.
 

FAI-F1D

Free Flight Indoorist
#27
Cool! That will give me a place to start :)

On edit... lol, so this little bird will be the most complex thing I've setup on the Horus by FAR! I'm still a Horus noob though. Also will take some getting used to the various options for DLG.
Unfortunately DLGs are infamously complex in setup. It's worth it though on most gliders...you can extract lots of extra performance.
 

wilmracer

I build things that fly (sometimes)
Mentor
#28
Unfortunately DLGs are infamously complex in setup. It's worth it though on most gliders...you can extract lots of extra performance.
Yeah... 2 hours last night playing with it and I'm still not quite where I want to be. A big setback is that I'm also very unfamiliar with OpenTX. I think I'm getting close now and will have to do additional adjustments once I have the actual flight servos installed. I was also able to get the throttle working on the slider/knob on the left side, but it seems almost every other switch is already in use in that program for some function and I wasn't able to figure out a good switch to use for throttle cut. I'll dig in more once I have a bit of time.
 

FAI-F1D

Free Flight Indoorist
#29
Yeah... 2 hours last night playing with it and I'm still not quite where I want to be. A big setback is that I'm also very unfamiliar with OpenTX. I think I'm getting close now and will have to do additional adjustments once I have the actual flight servos installed. I was also able to get the throttle working on the slider/knob on the left side, but it seems almost every other switch is already in use in that program for some function and I wasn't able to figure out a good switch to use for throttle cut. I'll dig in more once I have a bit of time.
Ah, forgot a couple things...I killed off the snap flap by zeroing it out in the flight modes and then used its switch for throttle cut. I also suppressed rudder mixing by zeroing it out and then ran throttle on the rudder channel (I'm using a tiny 4 channel rx).
 

rockyboy

Skill Collector
Mentor
#30
Yeah... 2 hours last night playing with it and I'm still not quite where I want to be. A big setback is that I'm also very unfamiliar with OpenTX. I think I'm getting close now and will have to do additional adjustments once I have the actual flight servos installed. I was also able to get the throttle working on the slider/knob on the left side, but it seems almost every other switch is already in use in that program for some function and I wasn't able to figure out a good switch to use for throttle cut. I'll dig in more once I have a bit of time.
I just dropped an order on a Firefeather kit today so I'll be able to provide some local OpenTX Support for this model soon :D

Ah, forgot a couple things...I killed off the snap flap by zeroing it out in the flight modes and then used its switch for throttle cut. I also suppressed rudder mixing by zeroing it out and then ran throttle on the rudder channel (I'm using a tiny 4 channel rx).
Any chance you could share out the EPEE or OTX file? :D

Thanks!
 

wilmracer

I build things that fly (sometimes)
Mentor
#31
I just dropped an order on a Firefeather kit today so I'll be able to provide some local OpenTX Support for this model soon :D

Any chance you could share out the EPEE or OTX file? :D

Thanks!
Awesome! With your balsa skills you'll have yours done in no time. Maybe we can do some launches at a club meeting in a month or so.

The EPEE file was linked from one of the pages referenced in Joshua's note above. I think this is the direct link: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showatt.php?attachmentid=7654620&d=1425967659

I'll have to look at tweaking those options. I'm using a small 6 channel receiver and didn't bother touching the rudder yet. Wasn't sure about the snap flap and a few other options. I was thinking about a sticky function where rudder stick had to be in a far corner with full up elevator while throttle was 0 to arm, if I can't get a real switch freed up. So many options :)
 

wilmracer

I build things that fly (sometimes)
Mentor
#32
Servos came in today and this evening I tossed together the servo block. I centered everything using the horus, but with this dlg program active and my inexperience with the horus I dont trust the centering enough to install it yet. I'll center everything with my other radio to be 100% sure.

I opted to crimp new connectors so I can go right from the servos to the receiver without the intermediary extension. Dead weight. I'll also shorten the battery lead and esc servo wire once I know the appropriate lengths. Keeping weight to a minimum :)
 

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wilmracer

I build things that fly (sometimes)
Mentor
#34
Baby steps. Got the servo brick installed and hooked up the elevator pull cable. Motor is mounted. Next up is installing the receiver and figuring how much I need to trim off the wiring for the esc. Getting pretty close now. May be ready for some glide testing in the next day or so. Folding prop is still taking it's time making it here but that won't stop me from testing everything.
 

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wilmracer

I build things that fly (sometimes)
Mentor
#36
Looking good! Keep taking those pictures so I can follow along when my kit gets here :D
I will! I have an issue with one of the servos but I'm hoping it is just a loose crimp. I do NOT want to have to dig that block out and replace it. Everything else is working perfectly and is ready for adjusting the program. Not sure I'll be able to look at it tonight but I'll get it working.

On edit: Nope... dead servo. I was VERY careful with the glue so I don't think I fouled anything. I wont be certain until I rip out the servo block. Definitely annoying but no other options at this point. I do have a spare servo so if it is unrecoverable I'll have an option, but it won't be fun cutting them all apart now. In any case that is a project for another night. Too much to do tonight.
 
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FAI-F1D

Free Flight Indoorist
#37
I will! I have an issue with one of the servos but I'm hoping it is just a loose crimp. I do NOT want to have to dig that block out and replace it. Everything else is working perfectly and is ready for adjusting the program. Not sure I'll be able to look at it tonight but I'll get it working.

On edit: Nope... dead servo. I was VERY careful with the glue so I don't think I fouled anything. I wont be certain until I rip out the servo block. Definitely annoying but no other options at this point. I do have a spare servo so if it is unrecoverable I'll have an option, but it won't be fun cutting them all apart now. In any case that is a project for another night. Too much to do tonight.
Dang. That seriously stinks. You're definitely doing an amazing job on the build though. Absolutely beautiful work.
 

wilmracer

I build things that fly (sometimes)
Mentor
#38
Dang. That seriously stinks. You're definitely doing an amazing job on the build though. Absolutely beautiful work.
No worries. New servos appear to have been delivered today and are waiting for me at home. After pulling the block out I think I might have shot myself in the foot by being a bit too rough with them. They appear to be held closed with a plastic strap rather than screws, and when roughing up the sides to glue them together two of those straps were cut and discarded. At least they are inexpensive.

I may skip re-crimping them to eliminate the extensions, or if I do still do that I'll do it BEFORE gluing them together. I suspect I can get the electronics reinstalled before this weekend and get some test glides in. Still waiting on the folding props to come from Hong Kong but I may be able to run a fixed prop to get some additional tuning done. I'm hoping to get out and fly on Saturday while my folks have a sleepover with the kid :)
 

rockyboy

Skill Collector
Mentor
#39
No worries. New servos appear to have been delivered today and are waiting for me at home. After pulling the block out I think I might have shot myself in the foot by being a bit too rough with them. They appear to be held closed with a plastic strap rather than screws, and when roughing up the sides to glue them together two of those straps were cut and discarded. At least they are inexpensive.

I may skip re-crimping them to eliminate the extensions, or if I do still do that I'll do it BEFORE gluing them together. I suspect I can get the electronics reinstalled before this weekend and get some test glides in. Still waiting on the folding props to come from Hong Kong but I may be able to run a fixed prop to get some additional tuning done. I'm hoping to get out and fly on Saturday while my folks have a sleepover with the kid :)
I'm not likely to make it out, but there is a streamer combat skirmish at Lorton Saturday morning! :D