First Multirotor build!

Scratch

New member
Backstory….
Back in the day, I had some gas and electric RC cars, (still have one) and used to have a gas Heli (Concept 60) it was fast, and scary to fly. I’d only crashed it once real bad, but honestly only had maybe less than 50 flights with it. It was stable and I could easily get it trimmed out to hover, without touching the sticks on the radio. Because of its large size, it seemed to handle wind pretty well and I was pretty happy with it until I sold it for some reason. I think it was because I decided I needed a Mustang 5.0 to bother the local police with…. Or to pay for speeding tickets. Either way… I’m pretty sure I sold it because of that damn Mustang!

With the technology jump in multirotors, and mini cameras like the GoPro, I decided I should get back into it, and multirotors look too awesome not to. I have a hard time nowadays with certain cognitive functions, from a work accident, so I decided to find a build that looked extremely simple for my first one. I probably should have just bought a turn-key copter, with GPS, auto return, and easy fly-ability, but I know I used to like to build things… and crash things…so I thought I’d give it a shot… plus it was much cheaper. I’m open to suggestions by all who care to help too.

The design I decided on was the H-Quad design that FliteTest did a build on. I know the tricopters have a more natural movement, better yaw control, and are possibly less cost since there are less motors, props, and ESC’s, but I thought for my first one, a more stable design, with more space for camera, FPV equipment, battery, etc… might be better. Plus with its wide platform, I can easily rent it out to Amazon.com for drone delivery jobs… or to the NSA for spying on your hot girlfriend. (Don’t tell my wife)

Of course about a year ago, I joined a couple RC forums, to find out as much as I can, then I did some research and found the design I liked with a nearly complete parts list, and build video from the guys here at Flitetest.com

I ordered up most of my parts from Hobbyking, and am still waiting for one of them to arrive on the slow boat from China, but thought I’d at least start the thread. Like I said, I now have a problem with coordinating my eyes to my fat fingers, due to my accident, so the build is taking me longer than it probably should, but what the heck… winter’s a long time and I hate the cold, so I don’t mind taking my time.

The geek I am, I also created an Excel spreadsheet, and am keeping track of everything down to the wood glue, (as far as cost is concerned) so I’ll be able to tell you exactly how much I’ve spent on this flying disaster when it’s complete.

I hope you enjoy the pics as much as I enjoy building it! And I apologize in advance for all the stupid questions I'm sure to be asking along the way...
 

Scratch

New member
I liked the idea of a simple, cheap wooden frame so I bought some 1/2”X1/2”X36” square Poplar pieces from Menards, two of them. Along with some 1/8” light plywood from Michael’s crafts. I think the light ply measured 24” by 12”.
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Scratch

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Got some cheap wood glue… Resist the temptation to eat this stuff unless your around eleven years old.
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Scratch

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Then cut them to size, glued them together and clamped them for 24 hours. By the way, these clamps are WAY too tight to use on your nipples for late night bedroom sessions with your significant other…. Just saying…
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Hi, actually i wanted to do a tri but the costs are practically the same since you need a high quality servo for the tilt mechanism . If i remember correctly the price of a good metal gear servo will be probably more than a esc and a motor ...
 

Scratch

New member
Here’s the basic frame shape completed. I’m still trying to figure out why they call this design an “H-frame” design…. If anyone knows, please clue me in.
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Scratch

New member
Hi, actually i wanted to do a tri but the costs are practically the same since you need a high quality servo for the tilt mechanism . If i remember correctly the price of a good metal gear servo will be probably more than a esc and a motor ...

Oh yeah... I guess I forgot about the tilt mechanism cost... if I ever get this one in the air, maybe I'll try a Tri too.
 

Scratch

New member
Then I cut another piece of light ply to go on the bottom of the frame, but I made this one a little longer in the front to hold a camera… The next one will be cut longer to hold a Samurai Sword I think… ya never know when you’ll need a remote controlled, FPV, flying Samurai Sword with high definition camera.
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Scratch

New member
Luckily I still have a good soldering station from my “digital specialist” days. (I like to throw that term “digital specialist” out there since it sounds more important. But basically I was one step above working at Radio Shack…)
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Scratch

New member
Here’s most of my order from Hobbyking. I ordered some extra parts for when they get damaged during the many crashes I will have. The basics are:
Turnigy 9X 9ch RX/TX combo
Hextronic DT750 motors
Turnigy Plush 30A ESC’s
Turnigy 2200mAh 25C Lipo battery pack
Hobbyking i86 Multi-Rotor Control Board
11X4.7 Slow Fly props
Misc. wire, heat shrink, nuts, connectors zip ties, battery strap etc.

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Scratch

New member
I also got my first GoPro on Black Friday! It’s the Hero 3, Black edition, and should make for some great videos.

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Ive already made my first extreme, high adrenaline, super crazy, intense video with it! Feel free to check it out, but only if you don't have a heart condition... It's pretty intense like most GoPro videos are...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_mko9O9j__M
 

Scratch

New member
As stated in Flite Test's build, the ESC’s have a thick capacitor inside that bulges out and will hit the bottom piece of light ply, so I added a 3/16” thick spacer to give a little more wiggle room in there. Plus if I ever use it as a drug mule to smuggle weed across the border… I can fit more inside.
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Here you can see where I left some small sections of the 3/16” spacers out so the wires can pass through.

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Scratch

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This is the bottom. I had originally planned on putting this on my CNC table and cutting out something really cool like the Devil holding an AK47 shooting a baby seal while eating his own poop, but it’s too cold to go outside so I just drilled some stupid holes in it.

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Scratch

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I also thought that if I ever did mount a machine gun on it, and made it the quadrotor of death, that it should be black, so I painted it. My daughter suggested Hello Kitty, but I grounded her for that remark and sent her to her room with a copy of Guns and Ammo magazine and told her not to come out until she could explain herself.

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Scratch

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These “helping hands” work great for holding stuff for soldering. They also work great for throwing across the room, and making holes in sheetrock walls when you’re in your 20’s and mad at your coworker…. Not that I’d know about that…

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These are the electric motors I’m using for this build. They are DT750's. They come with short wires that I need to solder on some quick connectors onto. Here you can see on the bottom, how they come from the factory, then in the middle with the connectors soldered on, then on top with the heat shrink added and ready to go.
Polarity isn’t really an issue since once I start up the motors, if they’re spinning the wrong direction, switching any two of the three wires will change the direction. Hence the need for quick connectors rather than direct soldering.

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(I know you all are probably thinking "Duh... we already know most of this stuff" but I've actually cross posted this on another one of my forums, and am just copying and pasting so excuse the "dumbing it down" I've done. Some of the people on the other forum have never heard the term quadrotor...)
 

Scratch

New member
These are the ESC’s.Plush 30's
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The ESC’s have short wire leads also, so I need to extend out the three red wires going to the motors about 5 inches. Here you can see one wire extended.
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Here’s a bunch of those “extension” wires ready to go on all the ESC’s
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Here’s the ESC’s in the various stages of being extended. You can see how I wrapped the stripped ends of the bare wires together with bare copper strands for soldering. I jumped ahead for the pic and didn’t tin the wires first on that one ESC… but I unwrapped them and tinned them before I did the final solder. Four motors, so I need four ESC’s.
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Here’s the four ESC’s where they will go in the frame. I also ran the power leads for all four ESC’s together and to one common power connector that will go straight to the main battery. The four smaller 3 pin connectors on the top will go to the radios receiver.
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cranialrectosis

Faster than a speeding face plant!
Mentor
LMAO...

Extreme Cerealing...

The Devil with the Kalashnikov was good but Hello Kitty has me rolling.
 

xuzme720

Dedicated foam bender
Mentor
Yeah, I subscribed because of the pour. I was worried for a sec but you just went for it! Whoa!

Also, if you add some rubber bands to the handle of the clamps, you can pull off some of the clamping pressure! I... uh... I read that somewhere...
 

Scratch

New member
Some small updates on the build...

I managed to get it all painted, then install the motors, ESC's and wiring. Here's the underside:
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Here's the top:
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