Hobby King KK2.1 Multirotor Flight Controller: Featues LCD, 6050MPU, and Atmel 644PA

[Mustang7302]

This thread is intended to allow users to ask questions and share information specific to the new KK2.1, which has replace new production of the previous KK2.0. Feel free to comment about ordering one, from which warehouse, how long it took to come in, share PI settings and details of your setup (motor layout, motors, prop size, ESC firmware, all up weight, ect), and new firmware options.

The next evolution of the rotor revolution is here!! The KK2.1 is packing new found power with updated sensors, memory and header pins.

Designed by the grandfather of the KK revolution, Rolf R Bakke, exclusively for HobbyKing, the KK2.1 is the evolution of the first generation KK flight control boards. The KK2.1 was engineered from the ground up to bring multi-rotor flight to everyone, not just the experts. The LCD screen and built in software makes install and setup easier than ever. A host of multi-rotor craft types are pre-installed, simply select your craft type, check motor layout/propeller direction, calibrate your ESCs and radio and you’re ready to go! All of which is done with easy to follow on screen prompts!

The original KK gyro system has been updated to an incredibly sensitive 6050 MPU system making this the most stable KK board ever and allowing for the addition of an auto-level function. At the heart of the KK2.1 is an Atmel Mega644PA 8-bit AVR RISC-based microcontroller with 64k of memory. An additional header has been added for voltage detection, so no need for on-board soldering. A handy piezo buzzer is also included with the board for audio warning when activating and deactivating the board.

If you’re new to multi-rotor flight or have been unsure about how to setup a KK board then the KK2.1 was built for you. The 6 Pin USBasp AVR programming interface ensures future software updates will be quick and easy.

Specs
Size: 50.5mm x 50.5mm x 12mm
Weight: 21 gram (Inc Piezo buzzer)
IC: Atmega644 PA
Gyro/Acc: 6050MPU InvenSense Inc.
Auto-level: Yes
Input Voltage: 4.8-6.0V
AVR interface: Standard 6 pin.
Signal from Receiver: 1520us (5 channels)
Signal to ESC: 1520us
Firmware Version: 1.5

Supported Motor Layouts:

• Dualcopter
• Tricopter
• Y6
• Quadcopter +
• Quadcopter X
• Hexcopter +
• Hexcopter X
• Octocopter +
• Octocopter X
• X8 +
• X8 X
• H8
• H6
• V8
• V6
• Aero 1S Aileron
• Aero 2S Aileron
• Flying Wing
• Singlecopter 2M 2S
• Singlecopter 1M 4S

Custom Mix via the "Mixer Editor" option:
The Mixer Editor allows you to adjust where and how much signal the motors receive from stick input and sensors. This allows you to create any configuration possible with up to 8 motors or servos.

What is a Multi-Rotor Control board you ask?
The HobbyKing KK2.1 Multi-Rotor controller is a flight control board for multi-rotor aircraft (Tricopters, Quadcopters, Hexcopters etc). Its purpose is to stabilize the aircraft during flight. To do this it takes the signal from the 6050MPU gyro/acc (roll, pitch and yaw) then passes the signal to the Atmega644PA IC. The Atmega644PA IC unit then processes these signals according the users selected firmware and passes control signals to the installed Electronic Speed Controllers (ESCs). These signals instruct the ESCs to make fine adjustments to the motors rotational speed which in turn stabilizes your multi-rotor craft.

The HobbyKing KK2.1 Multi-Rotor control board also uses signals from your radio systems receiver (Rx) and passes these signals to the Atmega644PA IC via the aileron, elevator, throttle and rudder inputs. Once this information has been processed the IC will send varying signals to the ESCs which in turn adjust the rotational speed of each motor to induce controlled flight (up, down, backwards, forwards, left, right, yaw).

*Royalties paid on each unit sold to Rolf R Bakke, the original KK Designer.

** Note: An updated software version”1.6” for the KK2.1 is available. It is all ways recommended to update to the latest software version as part of your initial setup. (This is different than v1.6 for 2.0)

 

[Mustang7302]

Ordered my first KK2.1 from the international warehouse on 12/2/2013 (Cyber Monday, but wasn't on sale) with new powerplant parts (Turnigy SK3 2822 1275KV Motors, Q-Brain 4 x 20A ESC, and 8045 Carbon Fiber Props). Ordered with the "EMS Express" option which was curried by Swiss Post out of Hong Kong and arrived in the states on 12/9/2013. Still waiting on final delivery to my door, but I am excited to get my hands on the new parts and see how the new KK2.1 does.

 

[RoyBro]

I ordered mine on black Friday. It shipped the same day. It arrived in LA yesterday. Let's see how long it takes to get to Montana. :applause:

 

[khostr]

Hey could you list and link all the parts you will be using for your setup?
thanks in advance^.^

 

[TDM22]

I'm looking at building a multirotor during the winter. Having never done this, and my only experience being the AR drone 2.0(Which I quickly wanted more from) and those toy quads, I have no idea what I'm doing. I do have some experience with RC ground vehicles but this seems way different.

Anyway-With this board, it comes all put together and I just mount it, and plug my receiver into it? Or do I have to do some soldering? And is this something I can keep, and in the future add a GPS chip/antenna and have a return to home feature? And will this (with or without a GPS added on) be able to remain in one spot when I take hands off the controls?

I guess basically I want all the good stuff of the ARdrone with none of it's limitations (And no I'm not going to mod the drone-that would cost me almost as much as this build)

 

[Mustang7302]

Hey could you list and link all the parts you will be using for your setup?
thanks in advance^.^

I have a build log started for the setup I will be running, which includes links to the specific parts: http://forum.flitetest.com/showthread.php?6530-Mustang7302-s-iQuad-Build-Log

I'm looking at building a multirotor during the winter. Having never done this, and my only experience being the AR drone 2.0(Which I quickly wanted more from) and those toy quads, I have no idea what I'm doing. I do have some experience with RC ground vehicles but this seems way different.

Anyway-With this board, it comes all put together and I just mount it, and plug my receiver into it? Or do I have to do some soldering? And is this something I can keep, and in the future add a GPS chip/antenna and have a return to home feature? And will this (with or without a GPS added on) be able to remain in one spot when I take hands off the controls?

I guess basically I want all the good stuff of the ARdrone with none of it's limitations (And no I'm not going to mod the drone-that would cost me almost as much as this build)

I do not expect the KK2.1 to support GPS in the future as it lacks a I2C or Serial communication bus for it to receive input from a GPS receiver. GPS and barometric sensors are needed for a flight controller to remain relatively stationary in the air.

The KK2.1 will not require any soldering to get it in the air. Connect the receiver inputs to the pins on the left of the LCD and connect the signal to the ESCs on the right side of the LCD. The KK2.1's biggest advantage is the on board LCD and buttons to navigate the menu and modify settings without connecting it to a computer. This makes initial setup a breeze and tuning the gains much faster to get a smooth flying multirotor in Acro and Self Level modes.

If you want autonomous flight, look into the MultiWii Pro or Ardu Pilot Mega 2.5. Both of these board can be had for less than $100 and offers the additional sensors and logic needed for Altitude and GPS hold. They're much more cumbersome to setup and tweak, however.

 

[TDM22]

If you want autonomous flight, look into the MultiWii Pro or Ardu Pilot Mega 2.5. Both of these board can be had for less than $100 and offers the additional sensors and logic needed for Altitude and GPS hold. They're much more cumbersome to setup and tweak, however.

I looked at the APM2.5 but couldn't find it for under $100. Actually I found them going $140-$180 that came assembled and with a GPS. I can justify that price, but wouldn't complain if I could get it cheaper. And it Looks like I can throw it on different aircraft and ground vehicles.

However When you say they are more difficult to set up-is that just because it doesn't have the LCD screen like the kk2.1 board? Is it actually more difficult, or does it just require more patience? And as someone experienced in these, do you think there are any advantages other than ease of setup, for the KK over the APM?

 

[jhitesma]

I do not expect the KK2.1 to support GPS in the future as it lacks a I2C or Serial communication bus for it to receive input from a GPS receiver. GPS and barometric sensors are needed for a flight controller to remain relatively stationary in the air.

I wouldn't rule it out completely. The KK2.1 may or may not have the pins brought out to pads anywhere...but the Atmega644 that it uses does support I2C and two serial ports so it should theoretically be possible.

Once the actual boards get into more peoples hands we'll know for sure just how easy or difficult it would be to implement.

But it's almost guaranteed to require some soldering and will require custom firmware if it does prove possible.


As for the extra difficulty of MW over the KK...I've yet to use a KK but can shed some light on what might be scary to some people about MW:

1) Earlier/smaller MW boards don't have on board USB - so you need an external programmer to do much of anything with those boards. Most current MW boards out there do have USB on the board so this isn't much of an issue anymore but it's still there in a lot of peoples minds.

2) MW supports a LOT of stuff and the config file is therefore pretty daunting. But 99% of that config can just be left alone. You can see the full config file for 2.2 (All 1000+ lines) here: https://code.google.com/p/multiwii/source/browse/tags/version-2.2/MultiWii_shared/config.h And there's a webpage that makes creating an initial config easier here: http://panoramaic.se/configurator/2.2/ Either way this step of config is something you generally only do once per airframe unless you're really playing with things like I have been. This upload does have to be done from a computer.

3) MW does support an LCD but doesn't have buttons so programming with the LCD is still done with stick movements which is not quite as nice as the KK's LCD and buttons. But MW also supports bluetooth (or other RF links) and there are apps for Android and iPhone that are even nicer than KK's LCD and buttons for tweaking the kinds of things that generally get tweaked.

If you buy a MW board from somewhere that ships them pre-flashed with "standard" configs there's a good chance you will be able to just connect it up and fly much like you can with a KK board. You'd still have to tune the PID's but that's true on any controller (and IMHO doing it from bluetooth on the MW is way better than reaching between props to do it with an LCD and buttons on a KK.)

 

[Craftydan]

(and IMHO doing it from bluetooth on the MW is way better than reaching between props to do it with an LCD and buttons on a KK.)

While I *compleatly* dig the bluetooth connectivity, the Menus in the KK2 cannot be accessed with the props armed, and most well designed multirotors will not have the control board underneath the props -- the frame would block downward thrust and picks up prop thump right at the board. Still, I understand the paranoia.

I will say having the modular capability that can be added and removed is nice -- buy 1 BT module or screen, get the copter tuned and it goes into the flight box until it's needed again -- no need to buy a screen/BT for each airframe, and lower chance of breaking them when you crash hard.

 

[jhitesma]

I admit I'm super paranoid about prop strikes. It was drilled into me when I first started getting into planes as a child that props are dangerous and fingers can be lost. Even met one old timer with half a finger as proof.

And while my rational brain knows that a plastic prop on a small electric motor is nothing compared to a wooden prop on a gas motor....I'm still rather attached to my fingers and don't like being anywhere near a prop that's attached to a motor that's attached to electronics that have a battery on them. Disarmed or not they still scare me.

Heck, I'm paranoid enough that I treat my quad with respect even when I have the props and colletts off.

I fully agree that it should be totally safe to use the controls on a KK board and the risk is probably lower than the risk of loosing a toe by dropping a heavy quad on it.

Not trying to claim it's rational...but I'd rather be safe than sorry and I have a hard time getting my hands anywhere near a prop when the electronics are powered up.

And I do still want to try a KK board...just not quite in the budget for a few more months.

 

[Cyberdactyl]

There's a huge gulf between Slo-Fly poly-plastic props and glass-reinforced or CF props.

Plastic can somewhat be considered a 'serious toy'. The latter is a weapon used to push air.

 

[cranialrectosis]

I own the MultiWii Pro and the KK2.0 and I found the KK2.0 to be far simpler to tune for great flight.

 

[xuzme720]

There's a huge gulf between Slo-Fly poly-plastic props and glass-reinforced or CF props.

Plastic can somewhat be considered a 'serious toy'. The latter is a weapon used to push air.

Yes, plastic will just remind you to keep your hand out of there, CF will cure that "attachment" you have still have to those fingers!

 

[Mustang7302]

It looks like USPS didn't get the memo about EMS "Express" shipping. It got out the door of HobbyKing and into the states in seven days; but took a day to go from New York to New Jersey, another day from New Jersey to Indiana, and at this rate I might see my parts Monday or Tuesday of next week.

 

[Cyberdactyl]

For anyone who hasn't seen, I have been humbled by what props can do, and believe me, I have complete respect for carbon fiber since I'm very aware what flexible Slow-Flys will do.

The summer before last, when I was using the old V2.1 FC, I would arm it on my garage floor and then take to my yard. I had my truck up close to my garage opening and was slipping sideways between the garage outer wall and my truck and my Tx strap snagged the throttle.

This was only maybe 40-60% throttle for around a third of a second.

 

[Craftydan]

Ouch!

I've set a Throttle hold on my TX on all my models for this reason -- got lucky myself, I started off with a night vapor and all it would give is a nasty thump, but the thought of moving up made me figure out how to set up a "safety" on my transmitter. Some TX's are easier than others, but if it can be done, it's worth the effort.

Even then, like the Firearms training goes, "Safetys are designed to fail", so always treat it with the due respect even if it's "disarmed".

 

[Cyberdactyl]

The KK2 pretty much made safety a no-brainer. Flashes when armed, displays armed and safe on the display, keeps and maintains the set artificial horizon, etc. I've also set my prop not to spin until the throttle has moved around 10%.

Had no issues since moving to the KK2.

 

[Craftydan]

That's been my experience -- no near misses with the KK2, on the ground. I did, however find myself pulling the throttle all the way off and shutting off the ESCs when airborne one day (it made sense at the time). End result: she couldn't spin back up fast enough to aviod "landing" :black_eyed:

Now I've got my assigned throttle hold switch (I use the same switch for *ALL* of my models) to cut throttle in the hold position and run just above the KK2's minimum throttle in the run position.

To arm/disarm, I've got to have the hold on, and then I flip the switch and it comes up in a low idle. If I do it out of order, I get no life.

Aslo, until I flip the hold back on, I can't accidently stop the motors from the TX (Light poles, trees and ejected batteries will still stop it, but I keep that to a minimum ) Downside is pulling the stick back doesn't stop the motors -- If I'm in trouble, I've gotta be quick on that switch!

The throttle hold is probably not necisary on the KK2 (and I find myself trying to disarm all my other quads now), but the switch is set consistantly across all of my models. The model might not be safe when that switch is set, but at least the transmitter won't tell it to come to life!

 

[Cyberdactyl]

If going to 'SAFE' on the KK2 was merely putting throttle all the way down, I would have crashed my new quad many times by now. It takes almost no throttle to hover, around 30%, so my left stick inadvertently hits bottom stop quite a bit on a hard decent. Thank goodness I have no good reason to swing the rudder hard to the left or right when down that far.

 

[Craftydan]

My crash wasn't the KK2's fault -- it was the ESCs. That set of ESCs will change level pretty snappy if it's running, but on spinup the fastest start setting is still too slow if it's 100' above the ground.

Probably should reflash them to BHeli (they won't take a SimonK) but it's fine for now, and the same switch that disarms all of my models will hold my V-tail's throttle at 0, armed or not.

I't a weird setup, I'll grant, but it's consistant for all of my models.