Howdy! And is Ross foam now thicker?

CapnBry

Elite member
Hi guys, I was suggested a FT build video by Youtube's suggestion algorithm just over a month ago and set out the next day to find some DTFB. 24 hours later I had my first FT Arrow gliding around the yard and the avalanche of buying cool new RC hardware began!

I'll cut right to the point for the impatient reader. I grabbed a few sheets of Ross foam board ($0.88) at the local Walmart last week when they restocked and was building a new Arrow last night. The parts didn't fit together quite right, so I grabbed my calibers and measured the thickness of the board, 5.7-5.9mm. I had some half sheets laying around (everyone has a pile of these right?) that I had bought 2 weeks ago and they measure out around 4.7-4.8mm. The weight of one whole sheet, no sticker, is 129g. So the question is if this is the new Ross / Walmart board size or if I got some really weird off stock. A-folds and B-folds don't line up right after removing the foam strips, and it was a real chore to get the wing leading edge folded back on itself.

Anyway, I thought I'd share some photos of my first planes, all of which are now in the great foam pile in the sky now. I've never flown an RC plane before, but always appreciated them. My Dad and I built a giant balsa glider when I was a kid which somehow took years to almost complete but never flew, as both of us I think were too worried about crashing it with no flying experience. The FT planes seemed like a great way to learn without worrying about destroying a year's work in 6 seconds of panic. The first was the Arrow, which glided well but would barely go further than it glided once loaded up with electronics and an 2S/1806/6x3 prop.

I then built a FT Tiny Trainer and that was where it was at. First flight was in the backyard, which is about 150ft by 20ft and ended up in a tree about 10 seconds in. Trying to retrieve it, I got stung by a wasp in the face and had a severe allergic reaction.
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It took me over a week before I was brave enough to try again and that's where we started making progress. A dozen broken props and warped control surfaces, broken bits patched or rebuilt, and I'm feeling a little more comfortable on the sticks now. I found the 2S/1806/6x3 a little lacking in power too, needing 70%+ throttle to stay in the air. Upsizing to a 6x4 prop made it much more fun to fly and I still only maxed out around 8A. When my trainer hit a tree going 50kph and exploded in parts I switched to the Arrow (see: GPS track ending directly in a tree).
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Even with the 6x4 prop the Arrow needed almost max throttle on 2S so we went up to 3S with the 6x3 again and wowie this sucker can fly! The bad part is that I needed to cut some of the wing out to fit the larger battery which made the plane very fragile. One good crash would split the plane in half. Sort of easy to repair but next decent crash it would just split somewhere else. I'm trying to build a new one with some extra reinforcement but I spent 2 hours last night just trying to figure out where to put all the electronics and still haven't decided.
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I've also built some micro flyers because SO WEE. Here's the Nickel Pickle, which almost has more weight on the nose than the whole thing weighed (wing+packing tape=19g). I'm definitely having a lot of fun putting together aircraft that actually fly for like $2 in materials or less.
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While I'm introducing myself, I'll also ask for advice on what to build. My main most-convenient field is only 300ft x 200ft and surrounded by tall trees so I'd love an even slower flyer than the Trainer so I don't have exactly 7 seconds of flight time edge-to-edge. I also love having the flight controller onboard for getting telemetry back to the transmitter, and blackbox logging, and having fun with stabilized flight modes. Is there a slower-flying Power Pack A or F model that has enough space for all my junk, or should I go to something in a Power Pack C?
 

kilroy07

Legendary member
I'll address your first question, Ross IS thicker than Dollar Tree FB, it seems "softer" too, although the paper does seem stronger.
Also, I have had a random Ross sheet that was slighter thicker than the rest.
Some people prefer it but I'm going back to DTFB (Dollar Tree Foam Board) AKA Adams ready board.

I am curious to your setup for GPS tracking! Are you using an F3 board?

I see you are using FlySky, that's what I have too, great starter gear.

To fly slower it helps to be lighter. All those 3D printed parts (while cool) do add up.
It has been my experience wings just fly faster anyway...
I've nosed in a couple arrows myself (if your "really Good" you can get them to bounce!) :LOL:

What you will find here is an amazing community of people willing to help out and answer questions.
Welcome to the family.

I will caution you however....
"Once you start down the dark path, forever will it dominate your destiny, consume you it will..."
;)
 

CapnBry

Elite member
Yeah it is really odd about the foam board because I've only built with Ross board (because my Dollar Tree is always out of foam board. Where my Tampa Scratch Builders at?). All the stuff I had previously was ~4.8mm but I just went and bought more from Walmart and it is ~5.8mm. I also stopped at DT and they had 4x Ready Board in black that were not in the best shape but I got them to experiment with. I guess it is a little hard to tell here but this is all Ross and is thin, thick, superthin, thin, thin, thin, thick.
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The flight controller is an Omnibus F4 Pro V2 as far as I can tell. These things are cloned and copied so much it is hard to separate the fact from fiction in the sale listings sometimes and I did a lot of poking about with a multimeter to figure it out. It is running iNAV 2.0 with a BS-180 GPS. It is Beitan's cheapest UBOX 8-series receiver and it does the job just fine. I get 18-19 satellites when flying and it locks in under 10 seconds from power on. It also is only 18x18mm and only needs a UART to run. It doesn't have a compass or flash to store settings, but that's fine for iNAV, who reconfigures it on boot each time anyway.

As far as flying with it, I have played briefly with "loiter" (POSHOLD+ALTHOLD) and it flies around in circles over my head although it kinda makes me nervous because a a good gust of wind can really blow things off course and it takes a little space to get back into the pattern. RTH also works fine although I haven't tried to let it land yet. I really just added the GPS to get ground speed readings as I experimented with settings and balance and different wings (I have the poly wing, the sport wing, and a 110% wingspan sport wing).

The flight controller is really the bees knees though. For one, it adds telemetry to the FlySky transmitter so I can see current, battery voltage, ground speed, altitude, or whatever on the transmitter screen. The FlySky i6 is an incredible bargain I'll say. You can see when things are maxing out, or learn how it feels at different voltages. The stabilization is also incredible. I probably only have 2-3 hours of flight time so far and being able to get the plane all messed up, rotated, and headed for the ground and flip a switch to have it recover to flying straight was like having a teacher to bail me out whenever I needed. It also makes flying in wind a lot easier than it should be when the plane will just fix itself.

Flying low to the ground it has a tendency to descend though, which I haven't been able to work out. It's a bit of a pain to go out and fly for one battery, come home and hook everything up to the computer to look at logs and change a setting, then go fly another battery to test. The trainer stalls so gently though that it could just be I am trying to fly too slow when close to the ground and it is just dropping out of the sky. I also set up a switch for flaperons which actually works although riding the throttle and pitch just right to have it look like a real airplane landing is a bit beyond my skill level just yet.

Yeah the 3D printed parts are not great for weight. My trainer started out 290g then became 300g, became 320g, became 340g, and I think was up to 360g at the end after I added the flight controller, GPS, all 9g servos, and 3D printed mounts and screws. I try to avoid using it but it is just so dang helpful to whip out a mount or power pod or BBQ-skewer hole reinforcement that it is always my go-to.
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My brief time with the Arrow has been amazing though, I had such a stupid grin on my face when I cut the first corner and it just whipped into a bank and was coming back at me before I knew what had happened. I ordered an all-in-one receiver / servo board to slap onto the Nickel Pickle so maybe that will satiate my slow-flying desires and all the other planes can be Zippy McZippsters.
 

CapnBry

Elite member
I was just working on my new Arrow and I've realized that not only is the foam a different thickness, it is also a different texture and the paper peels off incredibly easily. On the old, thinner, Ross board, it was really difficult for me to remove the paper-- it would just shred. Now, it easily comes off in one big piece. (both of these are Ross)
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Weight-wise, the paper on each side constitutes about 22% the total weight of the board. I think it used to be a bit higher from what the Internet says, but I have such a hard time getting the paper off that I never had tested it previously. I wish I would have known how easily it peeled before I built this Arrow, I would have removed the paper from the inside of the wing. I'm concerned about the paper delaminating when I go fly. I live in Florida / a swamp so my field is always wet, sometimes I am standing in a couple inches of water even. The old ross board, I'd just spraypaint it and it wouldn't warp from getting wet. I'm wondering if this is just going to fall apart on my first landing.