L-19, 27% from Hostetler Plans, 116" span

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
With fiberglassing being done on some parts of the plane I need to start considering parts that I don't have yet, so I ordered the elevator pushrods, the 5" wheels, some more fiberglass cloth, and the tail wheel I'll need. The tail wheel is an odd design, and I've only found the one company suggested by the plan designer that makes it. Ohio Superstar it is then! It's pretty accurate to the full scale design. I'll still need to order the landing gear struts and pretty soon it can stand on its own feet!
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
There's a small "chin" area that needs to be built, which goes between the landing gear and the cowl. The Pitts-style exhaust will exit in front of this chin, behind the rear edge of the cowl.

IMG_3934.JPG


Next up the attention is turned back to the elevators. One side has sheeting clamped/pinned in place to dry while the other gets a second coat of finishing epoxy. Here's it just been applied and I haven't gone over it yet with a playing card to smooth it and remove the excess. I normally thin my Z-poxy a bit so it "works" longer and flows a little better. It's been used on a couple models of mine so far and I really like it.

IMG_3930.JPG


After sanding the epoxy finish I thinned some automotive spot filling putty and spread it on with an old playing card. After letting it cure it was sanded to this finish - nice & smooth.

IMG_3935.JPG


With some primer it's looking good, although there is one area in the lower left that will need a little filler/primer and sanding as the seam between the sheets is visible. Then again, the paint is still wet so maybe it won't be too bad once it dries. Or maybe it'll be worse...!

IMG_3936.JPG
 
You are a building machine! You must have some singular focus! I just ran down another rabbit hole, and bought a 3D printer kit. I was so enthralled by the FT episode with the P-38, I couldn't help myself. I had been considering one for a while, but that put me over the top.

The L-19 is looking spectacular! I actually just cleaned off the build table so I can finish my little Dumas L-19. Belive it or not, my elevator control horn interferes with my rudder pull-pull as well! I need to move the hole in the rudder so I can lower the toothpick to get it out of the way of the elevator horn.
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
The other L-19 I built also had clearance issues. Strange that it keep coming up as a problem!

I'll be joining you with the 3D printer stuff soon. I like the idea of printing planes but most want to use it for printing jigs and fixtures for building planes.
 

jsknockoff

Active member
Mentor
Looking good Joker! I'm a little jealous of your giant scale build. The finishing part of any balsa build, great or small, is what makes me the most nervous so my planes always seem to stall at this point.
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
I know what you mean, for me it's all the little details at this point which slow things down. I haven't even started the wing yet, and am pushing for the build to continue so it doesn't stall. For the wing I'm pricing a short kit instead of doing it all from scratch. That should help keep it very uniform and speed the process.
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
For this fuselage all parts were cut with a #11 blade, scroll saw, bandsaw, sanders, etc. nothing laser cut (yet).
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
One elevator has has been 'glassed, sanded, filled, sanded, primered, sanded, etc and is getting close! Before things go too far I wanted to get the hinge pockets cut and aligned for smooth operation. Straight reference lines were drawn and the pockets were then cut for the 2-part hinges. Once cut in both the elevator and stab I put the hinges in place and ran one wire through all 4 of them to make sure they were all aligned properly. The pockets were then tweaked a little here and there as needed.

These hinges include brass cotter pins, but I may just use a single wire for each elevator and rudder instead. I like hinge styles like this because it allows me to easily (?) remove the control surface for work in the future if needed. I went this route on my 1/4 scale Pietenpol and like how it worked out.

Once both elevators are hinged and set in place I can turn attention back to the rudder to figure out how I'll handle the control horns. I should also probably get the horns needed for the elevators...! On that same note, it wasn't shown in previous pictures but I added some ply inside each elevator for the control horn to mount to.

IMG_3940.JPG

IMG_3942.JPG

IMG_3946.JPG
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3943.JPG
    IMG_3943.JPG
    506.7 KB · Views: 1

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
Dust in my shop is really going to be a problem soon, once I start finishing the fuselage or start construction on the wing. All the balsa dust, sanding of the primer and body filler, etc, it'll really make a mess. While most of it ends up on the floor, plenty still remains airborne or clogs up my furnace filters. To FINALLY start addressing the problem I spent some time wading through YouTube videos for homemade air filtration ideas. Most of them are made by woodworkers with nice big shops, table saws, router tables, etc, none of which I have, so I kept looking at options.

Then I found a very basic filtration device that was simple, cheap, and worth a quick trial. It all starts with a $1.00 filter that probably isn't necessary. The balsa dust or sanding dust is typically too small to get caught in here, but I'm trying it anyway. You can see my hand through the filter. If you plan to use a filter system in an area with a lot of pets this filter would probably keep the hair from making it to the main filter, so use your judgement.

IMG_3968.JPG


The next filter is the main one that'll pick up most of the dust. It's not expensive, only a few dollars, but it's got a much tighter filter fabric than the pre-filter. From what I've learned, the real expensive filters aren't worth the extra cost as they get clogged fairly quickly with this type of application. It's better to buy a bunch of cheap ones and replace them regularly.

IMG_3969.JPG


Note that on the pleated filters there is a specific installation direction, so be sure to install it so air flows properly. The pre-filter doesn't matter.

IMG_3970.JPG


Here we go, filters are stacked and I ran a couple pieces of painters tape to hold them together

IMG_3971.JPG


It's fairly half-assed, but again this was just a test to see if it was going to work. The filters were taped to an old box fan. These are just barely big enough to cover the face of this old box fan. If it works, the setup is very portable (note the handle!) and cheap. Many of us have these old fans laying around doing nothing for the past few decades. This one was sitting in my garage unloved for at least a decade. The other one I tested is even older. I have a slight concern that the filter will block airflow to the point where the motor overheats, although if the filter is replaced regularly I don't imagine it'd be an issue. Hopefully. NOTE: I say that after the other older fan died after about 10 minutes on high speed with the filters on. It was an old unit and I knew it was somewhat temperamental, so this may have just given it that final push over the edge...

IMG_3972.JPG


Here's the result of my test. I set the fan on the floor under my workbench and sanded the spot primer off of one of the elevator halves. I wasn't sanding over the bench, but in my hands so the dust would fall directly down towards the floor. Obviously much of it was pulled into the filter, and about that same amount ended up on the floor. This dust is heavier than balsa dust, and when I tested with balsa most of the dust got sucked into the filter, far less was floating around than usual.

IMG_3973.JPG


I see some promise with this and will continue testing it for a while. I can envision incorporating it into a sanding booth or into a down-draft table for sanding, although a bigger fan unit would be required. It would require a different type of fan for painting, but again there is promise.
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
Rough planking was done on the nose today after the inside was coated with epoxy to fuel-proof it. There is a TON of space inside the nose for a big gas tank!

IMG_3963.JPG

IMG_3964.JPG


With the glue dried the ends were trimmed to shape and again the cowl was test-fit. It seems slightly big, although once installed on the finished fuselage it should allow for plenty of airflow out the bottom from the hot engine, and that may have been the goal with the shape and size.

The elevators are just about finished as far as I can take them for a while. They need a final light coat of primer and sanding before getting the panel lines done.

IMG_3967.JPG
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
It took some digging to come up with good drawing and pictures showing the panel lines and rivet details. I'm not going for super-detail, but am settling for "good enough to make people who don't know any better assume it's scale" detail. :)

Since I'm doing the body work on the elevators first, I needed a good reference picture. This is one of them, which shows the corrugated metal used for the tail control surfaces. There are a couple ways to do this, and I'd do things differently if I were to re-build the elevators. In my case, I'm just going to add 1/16" hardwood strips to simulate the raised sections. Note that there is a trim tab on the elevator, although it's only on the right half.

IMG_3950.JPG


More and more I'm leaning towards the Hi-Vis Orange for my color scheme. There are more common colors out there, but this should be very visible and a real attention-grabber at the field!

IMG_3961.JPG


Here are some of the drawings I was able to find, which should help out on panel lines, rivets, lights, etc. There are a few good sites that also show the actual plane in detail which will be useful.

Cessna_OE-1_Sheet_A.jpg

Cessna_OE-1_Sheet_B.jpg

Cessna_OE-1_Sheet_C.jpg
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
Following up on the panel lines mentioned earlier, I'm following the method used by Wilmracer on his big P-40, where he uses Chartpak tape to mask off where the panel lines will be. I ordered 1/64", 1/32", and 1/16" wide rolls from Art Supply Warehouse as their shipping cost was very reasonable and the cost per roll was very low.

I'm expecting that most lines will either be 1/64" or 1/32", but since it was only about $6.00 per roll I figured I should just order a few sizes to be safe.
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
Although I trust my ability to keep most of the gas in the fuel tank, all the connecting points and splices inside there have me concerned. The fuel tank has a bung that could leak, a vent line and supply line that could leak, there can be fuel leaking from the fill line on the side of the plane, or at the "T" used to splice the fill line to the supply, or the two lines connecting the fuel filter, much less the fuel filter itself, and also the possibility of a fuel leak at the carb wicking back into the fuselage. So that's 11-ish spots off the top of my head that could possibly leak gas into the nose of the fuselage, which means I've got a 214% chance of it happening to my plane! :eek: That many points of potential failure is why people get very picky about how they safety wire connections, the quality of fuel tube used, etc. Good times...
 

CaptBill

New member
Very impressive project.
I hope this is not in poor taste or rude but I will ask and hope not to offend.
What is the cost, both in dollars and in time, to complete a project like this. Frankly I blown away by it.
Thanks
Bill
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
I've been married for over 20 years and have two teenagers at home, you'll have to try a LOT harder than that to offend me! :)

For time... no idea. I work on it as time permits, a little here and there and eventually it starts looking like an airplane. It could have gotten this far much more quickly if I had purchased a laser-cut short-kit, but I decided to do all my own work on it. However, I priced a short kit for the wing and am planning to order that this coming weekend. Not that I can't cut ribs, but it's a huge wing and I want it as accurate as possible.

Regarding monetary cost, it isn't cheap, but I spread it out over months and order parts as needed. The balsa and ply to scratch build the entire plane is in the $150-200 range. A new gas engine in the 50cc size can run $250 and up, although I found a used Quadra 50 locally for $100. All the other electronics, custom-made cowl, gas lines, hardware, wheels, etc probably adds on another $400 or so. Once completed and figuring in fiberglass, paint, and everything else I can't remember it won't surprise me a bit to find out I've dumped $1,000 into it. Not to mention I haven't brought it up from the basement yet to see if it even fits inside my Expedition or not, so maybe there is finally a trailer in my future. If I wake up tomorrow morning I'll know my wife isn't reading this! :)

It's not cheap by any stretch, but this is my way of winding-down and relaxing, and it keeps me out of the bars. Most of the planes I've built are nowhere near this size, meaning their costs are much lower.
 

willsonman

Builder Extraordinare
Mentor
By comparison, my scratch-build Sikorsky S-39 was built in the $500 range. For a model this size and complexity, its quite affordable. Models of this size can be many thousands of dollars if you buy them built or as ARFs.
 

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
True, and if you start going nuts on details like a finished interior, navigation lights, etc it can also spike. Oh, I'm doing nav lights on this one, so there goes more money. :(

Depending on the add-ons, the cost per square foot isn't bad on a plane like this, in fact it's CHEAPER than most of my other planes. I'll need to remember that argument in case my wife ever quizzes me on cost. :)
 
Last edited:

Joker 53150

Mmmmmmm, balsa.
Mentor
As mentioned a while back, the rudder pull-pull control arms were interfering with the elevators. After finally having the hinge slots all cut and the parts fit I found that by moving the arms down by 1/2" I was able to get full deflection again. I'll need to patch the holes from the previous mount which will be easy enough. I'll also be able to get control horns on the elevators, pushrods mounted, etc.