Need soldering advice and help with wiring

[ElectriSean]

Yup, lead free. Terrible, terrible solder for home use.

Get yourself some 63/37 or 60/40 and save that stuff for plumbing

https://www.amazon.ca/MG-Chemicals-...&keywords=63/37+solder&qid=1593087624&sr=8-14

 

[Merv]

I agree with @ElectriSean, lead free solder is much more difficult to use. For electronics, use leaded solder.
Save the lead free for plumbing, where it needed.

 

["Corpse"]

Just personal preference, but I use solder with 1% silver in it. It just comes out shinier and it doesn't make those "cones" as easily.

 

[Kvn_chn]

So if I get a lead free solder would it melt the battery wire pad that I’ve been having trouble soldering?

 

[Merv]

So if I get a lead free solder would it melt the battery wire pad that I’ve been having trouble soldering?

What you are using is lead free, that is part of the problem you are having.

Try using solder with lead. I agree with @corpse, silver solder is better than leaded solder, both are far better than lead free solder

 

[sprzout]

i dont have a digital thermometer but the iron doesn't seem to heat up as well as it did when i first got it. if i return this and get a new on is there on that you would recommend?

This is the iron I've got. Made a WORLD of difference in my soldering:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWUFVY8/?tag=lstir-20

This particular package comes with some nice cutters, something mine didn't have - and I paid $90 via a sale at the local Fry's Electronics. The price on it fluctuates anywhere from $90-$120, but it is perhaps the best investment I've made for this hobby - it heats up quickly, it has fast recovery, it is VERY precise, it comes with the brass cleaning tool and sponge to help clean your tips, it has the ability to change out tips to larger or smaller sizes (unlike the cheapie Harbor Freight jobs that do NOT work for electronics work), it's got a solid, well balanced iron stand that's hard to knock over (and has protection for the tip, so you can't easily and accidentally bump it and burn yourself like you can with many of the cheapie irons), AND it's well reviewed.

If you are going to do any sort of more precise soldering, such as on an FC or 4 in 1 ESC, the soldering iron is NOT something you want to skimp on at all, otherwise you're going to end up with lots of frustration and potentially destroyed parts due to too much heat going through it. I'd return the iron you have, spend the extra what, $25-$30 for this one - you WON'T regret it one bit. If you don't get this one, I'd recommend a Weller, albeit the Weller soldering irons are usually analog, using a potentiometer to dial in the temperature, as opposed to the more precise digital settings of the Hakko.

 

["Corpse"]

This is the iron I've got. Made a WORLD of difference in my soldering:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWUFVY8/?tag=lstir-20

This particular package comes with some nice cutters, something mine didn't have - and I paid $90 via a sale at the local Fry's Electronics. The price on it fluctuates anywhere from $90-$120, but it is perhaps the best investment I've made for this hobby - it heats up quickly, it has fast recovery, it is VERY precise, it comes with the brass cleaning tool and sponge to help clean your tips, it has the ability to change out tips to larger or smaller sizes (unlike the cheapie Harbor Freight jobs that do NOT work for electronics work), it's got a solid, well balanced iron stand that's hard to knock over (and has protection for the tip, so you can't easily and accidentally bump it and burn yourself like you can with many of the cheapie irons), AND it's well reviewed.

If you are going to do any sort of more precise soldering, such as on an FC or 4 in 1 ESC, the soldering iron is NOT something you want to skimp on at all, otherwise you're going to end up with lots of frustration and potentially destroyed parts due to too much heat going through it. I'd return the iron you have, spend the extra what, $25-$30 for this one - you WON'T regret it one bit. If you don't get this one, I'd recommend a Weller, albeit the Weller soldering irons are usually analog, using a potentiometer to dial in the temperature, as opposed to the more precise digital settings of the Hakko.

I have a weller and it works great, but I do have to watch the heat very carefully. I have to estimate and see what the solder does at different temperatures.

 

[sprzout]

I have a weller and it works great, but I do have to watch the heat very carefully. I have to estimate and see what the solder does at different temperatures.

My dad has a Weller soldering station and a Weller Soldering Gun, and we've found the same issues - you have to watch and estimate. They're great, they heat up well and they recover quickly, but they're not as accurate as the Hakko and its digital power supply. But, that's also one of the big reasons why the Hakko is more expensive - it can dial it in better and hold it a little more consistently.

Ultimately, it depends on how much you plan to use it. For me, I've used it more than I EVER thought I would, even using it to solder together my wife's necklace when it broke a few weeks back. It's been a godsend for my repairs, and I've never been happier with it. Is it for everyone? No - but if you're doing a lot of work soldering, it's more than worth it.

 

[PsyBorg]

Back in the day when I worked for Harris RF communications we all had Weller stations. They were and still are in many places an industry standard. Doing Military radios we were kept to a very strict standard AND procedure. If you were observed doing a joint without cleaning and tinning your tip EVERY time you were wrote up. After three infractions in six months you were let go or put thru a retraining class depending if you got a long with the biddy bodies on the line talking about soap operas all day long.

Same thing with trimming component leads. If done wrong could put micro fractures in the joint that would show up under xray inspection and could get an entire batch of boards denied and sent back for rework. THEN you were in deep dookie.

 

[Kvn_chn]

thanks guys, ill get that solder. i finally soldered everythign and got it pugged in. however, after a minute, all the components get super hot like almost too hot for me to touch. is that normal?

Edit: actually, only the vtx and part of the flight controller actually get hot. if i leave my finger on the vtx for 10 seconds it's almost too hot for me to touch.

 

[Bricks]

thanks guys, ill get that solder. i finally soldered everythign and got it pugged in. however, after a minute, all the components get super hot like almost too hot for me to touch. is that normal?

Edit: actually, only the vtx and part of the flight controller actually get hot. if i leave my finger on the vtx for 10 seconds it's almost too hot for me to touch.

Don`t tell me you put power to the VTX without the antenna hooked up? If so you may be shopping.

 

[Kvn_chn]

I had the antenna plugged in. Is that what I am supposed to do?

 

[Bricks]

I had the antenna plugged in. Is that what I am supposed to do?

Yes if the VTX is powered up with out the antenna attached it fry`s the transmitter. Sad to say I have done it more then once, working on getting everything hooked up and forgot to install the antenna. when I applied power no more VTX..

 

[Kvn_chn]

Yes if the VTX is powered up with out the antenna attached it fry`s the transmitter.

Ok so I’ll have that plugged in. After I turn it on what do I do? The flight controller has leds that flash and stuff. Do I plug the flight controller into beta flight?