Noob needing advice - Power Pod Options:

LightBringer

Junior Member
I'm totally new to RC in general. I just got my radio (Turnigy 9X) in and I plan to do a bunch of Swappable builds. I've watched a bunch of videos and I've been trying to pickup as much as I can online. Making heads or tails of all the options has been daunting. Basically I need to buy the electronics for the power pod, but I want to choose parts that will allow me to use the pod for some of the more intermediate (FT Racer), as well as beginner builds (FT Flyer). I've picked a few parts I thought would be okay... but would like some advice on them.

Motor:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__12916__D2822_14_Brushless_Outrunner_1450kv.html
ESC:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__15202__Hobby_King_20A_ESC_3A_UBEC.html
Battery:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__21334__ZIPPY_Compact_1000mAh_3S_25C_Lipo_Pack.html

Any advice or guidance would be appreciated.
Thank you!
 

slyke

Junior Member
One way to go is to buy a power pack that has most of the things (no receiver, battery connection, etc.) you need like the ones from Altitude Hobbies

http://www.altitudehobbies.com/flitetest-combo-flight-packs/airplane-power-packs

If you plan to build a couple of planes you can add some extra servos and optionally a second motor. I think keeping the motor and battery size on the small side will help you as a beginner because the plane will be lighter.

From what you listed:
Motor looks like a good midsized choice
I prefer the Turnigy Plush ESCs
Battery is well matched to the motor size but you may want to get several.

You still would need a charger, battery connections, servo, receiver ....
-Stephen
 

PeterGregory

CrossThread Industries
Hi LightBringer,
A couple of recommendations.

If you are just starting building/flying, I suggest building the FT Flyer, Nutball, and Speedster to get started. Once you build your first plane, the others are easy. Those are good planes just to have around. Throw in the Delta to fly one with elevons (mixing on your radio). All of those fly great with the hextronic 24g, ~50W, 1700kv blue wonder. I would get a couple or three of those. Add 3mm bullet connectors to the ESC.

I second the motion on Plush ESC's - get the 18A, I recommend. In one early video you will hear Josh B. mention he loves those 18A Plush's. I have burned out 12A Plush ones in windy conditions with the Speedster.

Your stated Turnigy motor is 3x as powerful as the blue wonders - 160W. HK doesn't show an amperage rating for it, unfortunately but peak may be above 18A of the ESC. A comparable motor states 30A peak with that (http://rctimer.com/product-109.html), and so you may want to get a 30A Plush ESC. The Plush are robust ESC's, I can attest. I think this motor would be good for the Baby Blender, the Racer/Slinger, maybe a powerful speedster which has a lot of drag from being a fairly large plane.

Sounds interesting, keep us posted.
 

Povvercrazy

Senior Member
I have been looking at motors for a standard power pod myself, and I think I went a bit too powerful,
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=35175

Its a Turnigy Aerodrive D2826-10 1400 Kv, I think its a bit too much for the nutball etc
but should be ok for bigger models?
I also have a D2822-14 ready to go in a Bix2 when I finally build it which is slightly smaller but might be better.
It looks to me like theres really 2 sizes of swappables so I wanted to get a motor to cover both sizes (im cheaper than josh).

I do have a smaller 2230 motor but that only put out 100w and the built in prop adapter wont fit big props very well.
 
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herk1

Trash Hauler emeritus
Hi and welcome LightBringer,

I think those links in your first post are good and well-matched choices, with the possible tweak that I personally would go for the 35C version of the LiPo instead of the 25C. That's what I use on most of my powerpod planes -- Zippy compact 1000 mAh 35C. I have several of them. Yes it is technically true that a 1000mAh/25C "should" be good for 25 amps, but in my experience it is not; batteries tend not to be good for pushing anywhere near their full rated load. It's always nice to have extra grunt in the battery to stave off excessive voltage drop under power, or excess heat buildup. The tradeoff is a little extra weight and cost.

The motor you linked to is a a good one...I have that motor in my Hobbyking Reactor and it's terrific. And it will have enough power for your goal of transitioning to the intermediate planes. The 20A ESC is just the right size to use with it. I do agree with the good words that others have said about the Plush line of ESCs (I have several of those in my fleet, and some of the associated HobbyWing ones as well), but I also have two of the type you linked to and they have also been just fine. One advantage of the Plush/HobbyWing line is that you can get a programming card for them that makes it easier to make changes (like timing or brake). But an advantage of the type you linked to is the "UBEC" presumably means switchmode (but they don't actually confirm that in the specs), which is better to have than the linear BEC in the Plush ESCs.

The 3.5mm bullet connectors that you linked to are definitely the way to go, because down the road when you start acquiring more gear, motors of parkflier size that come with bullet connectors already soldered on typically have the 3.5mm size (the motor you linked to is one such example). So if you start standardizing your ESCs and motors to that size now, it will save you some work, and your gear will be more interchangeable.
 
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Povvercrazy

Senior Member
The charger you selected is dc only so it will only run off a car battery or dc power supply ?
Not sure if that's exactly what you wanted? there are DC only, AC only or AC/DC chargers
I would recommend one that runs on both AC and DC so you can use it at home and in the field.

Also you don't need a separate balancer if the charger has one built in, unless of cause you want to
use it just to check the cells,
I use these, they also double as a low voltage alarm;
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18588__HobbyKing_8482_Cell_Checker_with_Low_Voltage_Alarm_2S_8S_.html
 

Povvercrazy

Senior Member
Also if you only running under 20 amps I would stick to 20C or 25C batteries,
1000Mah 35C is capable of discharging 35-45 Amps, bit ott plus there a bit heavier :p
Not sure if its a risk to the esc or motor, I know a motor will only draw what it needs
but a nice balanced system is always better :)

I love the plush escs got 4 or 5 of em, I would recommend getting a programming card
for which ever esc you do buy, I have the one for the plush and its so much easier.

unfortunately yr links for motor and connectors aren't working for me but just look
on motor specs for max amp then multiply that number by 1.2 and look for an esc over that
ie motor max amp 10, 10x1.2=12, a 12 amp esc isn't giving you a lot of room so next up would be 18A Esc
I hope I have explained that ok haha
 
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slyke

Junior Member

If you want to use one esc across multiple models then get the 25amp Plush. The price and weight differences are small. I have converged on two esc for my builds: Turnigy Plush 10A for the minis and Plush 30A for everything else. I also got a programming card. This is much easier than trying to remember the morse code programming sequences for multiple brands of esc.
-Stephen
 

LightBringer

Junior Member
Thank you kindly. I fixed the links...
The motor doesn't list the max amps, but it does list 11 volts and a wattage of 160, so maybe amps at about 14.5? I don't know if that's the way it works or not.
 

herk1

Trash Hauler emeritus
Also if you only running under 20 amps I would stick to 20C or 25C batteries,
1000Mah 35C is capable of discharging 35-45 Amps, bit ott plus there a bit heavier :p
Not sure if its a risk to the esc or motor, I know a motor will only draw what it needs
but a nice balanced system is always better :)

Did you read the whole thread? Because you are telling him the reverse of what I just said. I could give you countless examples of where I have tried to push LiPos to even 80 or 90 percent of their rated discharge rate and all that happened was less-than-expected power (due to voltage sag), excess heat, and in some cases even batteries puffing up and ultimately, being ruined. Have you ever actually tried to push "35-45 Amps" into a puny little 1000 mAh/35C LiPo (or some equivalent LiPo abuse)? If you haven't, my advice is not to try...unless you can afford to eat the cost of the battery. (and keep an ice pack and a fire extinguisher handy when you do it!) My current practice is to go for an "on paper" discharge rate of about 30% higher than what I really need. The sad truth of the situation is that most battery manufacturers are not entirely candid when it comes to the C rating of their product.
 
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Povvercrazy

Senior Member
Lightbringer, I have that exact motor to go in my Bix2, 18 amp esc wont be man enough,
if you read the reviews most recommend 30-40 amp esc depending on prop and cell count,
I've just checked data sheet;
D2822-14 7.4-11.1v 160W 30A esc 2s=8x6 prop 3s=7x4.5 prop
those are the recommendations,
So if you stick with that get a 30A Plush :)
The battery recommendation I made was based on only 18A esc so ignore that :p
Here's the link for the Plush programmer if you go with plush esc;
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__29330__TURNIGY_BESC_Programming_Card_UK_Warehouse_.html
 

herk1

Trash Hauler emeritus
Lightbringer, like I said I have that motor in my Hobbyking Reaktor. According to my records, I have 97 flights with that motor in the plane (I actually have 123 flights on the plane, but that motor was the third motor I tried in it, and the best one). The ESC I have in it is an 18-amp Plush.

I am using a GWS 8x4DD prop with it, and my records also indicate that the ground wattmeter test I did on it with that prop and motor showed 12.3 amps, 140 watts, voltage drop from full charge (12.6V) to 11.4 V. That was using a Zippy compact 850 mAh 3S, 35C.

Since you indicated interest in using a GWS slowfly 8x4.3 prop, I checked my records and yes, I do have a couple of those in my prop collection (I've got probably over 100 different sizes/kinds of props that I've collected over the years in there...). I fished out the prop from the bin, then ran the motor on the Reaktor up with that prop, together with one of my Zippy compact 1000 mAh 35C LiPos. It pulled almost exactly the same amps and watts as the 8x4DD.

Usually motor specs include a suggested max amps. In this case though, they just give watts -- 160W. Simple math shows that with the expected voltage under load of a 3S LiPo of 11.1 volts: 160 divided by 11.1 equals about 14.4 amps. So an 18-amp ESC would do the job with room to spare (as it has for me, for well over a year). A 20A would be fine too, if you want to go with that UBEC (hopefully switchmode BEC) ESC.
 

LightBringer

Junior Member
Herk1, thank you so much for testing that! Very helpful

I think you guys have given me enough to build my first parts list. Again, thank you for your advice. Also, thanks for welcoming me to the forums, and the hobby. :)
 

Povvercrazy

Senior Member
I second the IMAX B6AC, its fantastic (make sure you get a genuine one)
I use it to charge 6s NiCad car packs, all my lipos, my AA and AAA nimh's and even a lead acid (pb)
can plug it into our pc to see pretty graphs aswell. :)
I got mine from hobbyking they now sell the V2 version,
 

LightBringer

Junior Member
Thank you for the suggestion! I got a cheap one... I think I'll upgrade to that when I have the $$ Looks like a good one.