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Solved Pusher prop or normal?

#1
Hello! My son and I are building an FT Explorer, which has a pusher prop. The only pusher props I could find are the gas ones, which I know are heavier. Does anyone see a problem with just taking a normal electric prop and installing it backwards? I don’t think that would do anything bad, but if thats the case, I wonder why they even make pusher props. Thanks in advance!
 

The Hangar

Well-known member
#2
Nope - nothing wrong with reversing the direction of the motor and using a normal CW prop. The reason for the CCW props is when you build twin motored planes, you want the props counter-rotating. Have fun!
 
#5
Here’s another question. I was looking for a certain size and pitch prop. The only one I could find were called “slow flyer.” When I got them, they were significantly more light weight than the normal electric props. I started to wonder if they were safe for the B and C packs or if they would fly apart at high RPMs. They seem to be low RPM props, so I haven‘t used them yet.
 

quorneng

Well-known member
#6
My solution for using a conventional prop on the pusher was to use two nuts.
LockNut.JPG

Do the first nut up to 'normal' tightness then using a second spanner but keeping the first spanner on the first nut do the second one up tight.
The prop is still held on without over excess force but the pair of nuts will be extremely hard to undo unless the outer nut is removed first.
That's a 250 W motor turning a 10" prop. With one nut it came off in flight and I lost the prop. The two nuts have been on for nearly 2 years now!
 
#7
My solution for using a conventional prop on the pusher was to use two nuts.
View attachment 168228
Do the first nut up to 'normal' tightness then using a second spanner but keeping the first spanner on the first nut do the second one up tight.
The prop is still held on without over excess force but the pair of nuts will be extremely hard to undo unless the outer nut is removed first.
That's a 250 W motor turning a 10" prop. With one nut it came off in flight and I lost the prop. The two nuts have been on for nearly 2 years now!
I’ll have to see if two nuts will fit. I‘m not sure there is enough thread. You think I will have a problem with one even if I tighten it well?
 

Merv

Well-known member
#8
Does anyone see a problem with just taking a normal electric prop and installing it backwards?
Just to clarify, the number on the prop ALWAYS go facing the direction of travel. Then adjust the rotation of the motor as needed. If you put a prop on backwards, the numbers facing where the plane has been, you will only get about 40% of the thrust.
 

The Hangar

Well-known member
#10
Here’s another question. I was looking for a certain size and pitch prop. The only one I could find were called “slow flyer.” When I got them, they were significantly more light weight than the normal electric props. I started to wonder if they were safe for the B and C packs or if they would fly apart at high RPMs. They seem to be low RPM props, so I haven‘t used them yet.
They will work fine.
 
#13
Just to clarify, the number on the prop ALWAYS go facing the direction of travel. Then adjust the rotation of the motor as needed. If you put a prop on backwards, the numbers facing where the plane has been, you will only get about 40% of the thrust.
Got it. I’ll install with numbers facing forward and make the rotation to give me forward thrust. Thank you!
 

Indy durtdigger

Well-known member
#14
I found myself in the same pinch with an explorer just at all this virus crud started going down in my area. The nylock nut on the FT radials will hold just fine. As others have said just make sure the numbers on the prop are facing forward.
 

Indy durtdigger

Well-known member
#19
The instructions in the build video won't match that radial C motor, they used the older one and mounted it different. Use tape and trial fit everything to make sure there is good prop clearance before ya glue the engine pod together. That plane flies pretty good as a 3 channel and even better with the sport wing. One more thing I ran into on final prep. If your using batteries from a smaller plane like 3s 1300mah lipos they are a bit light and you may need to add some nose weight to get the CG right.
 
#20
The instructions in the build video won't match that radial C motor, they used the older one and mounted it different. Use tape and trial fit everything to make sure there is good prop clearance before ya glue the engine pod together. That plane flies pretty good as a 3 channel and even better with the sport wing. One more thing I ran into on final prep. If your using batteries from a smaller plane like 3s 1300mah lipos they are a bit light and you may need to add some nose weight to get the CG right.
It’s funny, we just finished building and I experienced everything you said. We have a 1300 and a 1550. It took both in the nose to balance it.