The Great 2020 Quarantine Build-Off?
- Thread starter Hoomi
- Start date
CustomRCMods
Elite member
I’ve found it pretty much impossible to prevent the warpage of foam board in general. Yes I would reccomend laying it flat, but usually once the damage is done you don’t have many options. Just gotta suck it up and use it sometimes!
Wildthing
Legendary member
Instant stitches,Multiple beveling cuts in the same spot right at the edge of your thumbnail from the razor ‘cause you ain’t even smart enough to keep yer’ thumb outta the way !!
Now I just Zap the cuts with CA glue to keep the blood off the build.
correct me if I am wrong but I think it was originally designed for soldiers out in the field to seal up wounds.
Wildthing
Legendary member
Looking good, you might make a MS builder yet
Crawford Bros. Aeroplanes
Legendary member
I'm not sure if that what it was designed for but it's certainly what it's used for. I always keep a trauma kit in my car, right in the front pocket is few tubes of superglue.Instant stitches,
Wildthing
Legendary member
I think it was the first forms of Crazy Glue
Figure9
Elite member
We used it in Vietnam.Instant stitches,
I haven’t had that issue with my ft foam...
Vimana89
Legendary member
The warping isn't extreme and its even along the foam. It could have been the way I let the box stand up for a few days before opening, or it could have already happened in the shipping process. It wasn't cheap but I'm making it work. If a few days under the bags of books doesn't improve it, I can always build more of this (lazy KFM) airfoil with my little hack to make straight wings. Fuses should come out more or less good after doing the folds.
I think some time I'll have to order another 25 sheets and open them immediately and see what they look like. If they are good it was my bad, if they already have some warpage I'll know its probably just unavoidable.
Figure9
Elite member
I have found the same issue with my DTFB. I now stand it as perfectly vertical as I can to prevent that warpage. Storage was the issue with mine. It did not affect my build’s since the accuracy & precision of my cuts & joinery are so far off.
BATTLEAXE
Legendary member
Done some more forming of the skins this morning, this is the under side of the fuse where the wing slots into...
I was gonna do this in two separate pieces with the airfoil profile already cut out but i soon came to the realization that this would just create more problems like fit to the wing or to the fuse, and just by trying to form smaller pieces lends itself to causing wrinkles
I had to slap in some formers just in behind the third former to help line up the fir of this new section and to help the top and bottom skins form a clean seam
The third former will take the back half of the nose up a slight incline to the front of the canopy, yet to be formed as a hatch. I may do something similar where i build the back of the hatch opening at an angle to be able to remove the hatch easily and will be secured with magnets
Most of this bottom section will be cut away for the wing to index into. You can also get a good look at the reliefs that are made for the exhaust ports would be on the scale plane, and a decent look at how long the fuse will be. Now to salvage out the servos and install them into the wing and the tail section
I was gonna do this in two separate pieces with the airfoil profile already cut out but i soon came to the realization that this would just create more problems like fit to the wing or to the fuse, and just by trying to form smaller pieces lends itself to causing wrinkles
I had to slap in some formers just in behind the third former to help line up the fir of this new section and to help the top and bottom skins form a clean seam
The third former will take the back half of the nose up a slight incline to the front of the canopy, yet to be formed as a hatch. I may do something similar where i build the back of the hatch opening at an angle to be able to remove the hatch easily and will be secured with magnets
Most of this bottom section will be cut away for the wing to index into. You can also get a good look at the reliefs that are made for the exhaust ports would be on the scale plane, and a decent look at how long the fuse will be. Now to salvage out the servos and install them into the wing and the tail section
CustomRCMods
Elite member
Ive just accepted the warpage in my DTFB. Its unfortunate, But I have yet to find a way to prevent it.
Madspadder
Well-known member
Started putting the Fokker together. The fuse is 60” long with a wingspan of 77”. I am going to use aluminum screen frame for the 3 wing spars. The screen frame is super strong on edge and light weight. Set the wings on the fuse to show how big this is going to be.
Grifflyer
WWII fanatic
That thing is huge...I love it!!
Madspadder
Well-known member
I think it's going to go together nice. I have to figure out all of the plywood for landing gear and supports for the cabanes. I ordered a 1/4 scale pilot that will go nice . I painted this one last year one of these for my friends
The Fopster
Master member
I'm repairing my prototype Master Series Sea Fury tonight. After a tree related incident on only third flight (!) I'm doing a very rough fix. I'll fly it for a while, capture any needed modifications then build a clean V2.0. Could be air worthy tomorrow...
Well I got the wing completed and the rear turtle deck done on the maker foam edge! I absolutely love the edge build - it’s awesome! And also I’m loving the maker foam - it has such a good feel to it.
Figure9
Elite member
Our local RC club flying field has recently been plagued by herds of jumping trees lurking near the runway.
Crawford Bros. Aeroplanes
Legendary member
My trees are magnetic, they have magnets hidden in the bark to attract motors
ScratchBuildMast
Elite member
Are you suggesting they were made by the government???