They're killing scratch building.....

[Cookmatt67]

I was very much looking forward to scratch building the "old speedster" so My Jeep and I rambled our way to town to the wal-mart for foam board. That cost me $6 bucks a sheet! (so from now on ill buy it from the flitetest store. Then we headed over to staples to get the full size plan printed, I figured I'd get 2 copies made. (one for the build it now, and one to make templates with) well Imagine my surprise when i get to the counter with plans in hand, and they charge me $20 a sheet for a total of $80 for 2 sets. From now on if flitetest makes a quick build kit, I'm buying it and if not I will tile the plans together myself and save about $19.95 per sheet.
Not here crying about getting (what I feel) is a real good workover, but to let the rest of you folks know If your planning to build from these plans make sure you know what its gonna cost you up front.

 

[luvmy40]

Dolar General has Adams Redi Board for $1.00 per sheet and Dollar Tree has it for $1.25 ea. DT has different colors sometimes. The Walmart board is likely heavier than the Adams stuff too.

Printing tiles and putting them together is quite easy once get your system down pat.

Or, for a couple hundred dollars and a few headaches, you can build a CNC needle cutter and work from the full size PDFs without needing to print them.

 

[Mr NCT]

Last time I checked at staples the blue print copies of pans were $6 each but not all the summer help knows about blue prints, they only know poster quality.

 

[Cookmatt67]

Dollar General has Adams Redi Board for $1.00 per sheet and Dollar Tree has it for $1.25 ea. DT has different colors sometimes. The Walmart board is likely heavier than the Adams stuff too.

Printing tiles and putting them together is quite easy once get your system down pat.

Or, for a couple hundred dollars and a few headaches, you can build a CNC needle cutter and work from the full size PDFs without needing to print them.

yes I went to several of the "dollar sore" shops last week and you are right, they are cheaper but I couldn't find one sheet that didn't look like it was beat with a baseball bat! I think tiling is the way for me to go, gonna get a good paper cutter and a scotch tape dispenser.

 

[Cookmatt67]

Last time I checked at staples the blue print copies of pans were $6 each but not all the summer help knows about blue prints, they only know poster quality.

i did ask about cheaper options, but the peeps in there had no idea...

 

[Hondo76251]

Time is worth something too.
For me I find it easiest to buy the speed build kit, but rather than build with it i use the pieces and trace them to dollar store or FT FT foamboard and then save the kit itself to make repairs or a whole new plane later if I want.

 

[dap35]

I was very much looking forward to scratch building the "old speedster" so My Jeep and I rambled our way to town to the wal-mart for foam board. That cost me $6 bucks a sheet! (so from now on ill buy it from the flitetest store. Then we headed over to staples to get the full size plan printed, I figured I'd get 2 copies made. (one for the build it now, and one to make templates with) well Imagine my surprise when i get to the counter with plans in hand, and they charge me $20 a sheet for a total of $80 for 2 sets. From now on if flitetest makes a quick build kit, I'm buying it and if not I will tile the plans together myself and save about $19.95 per sheet.
Not here crying about getting (what I feel) is a real good workover, but to let the rest of you folks know If your planning to build from these plans make sure you know what its gonna cost you up front.

It's been a couple of months since I went to WM for foam board, but the last time I went it was less than $1 for a sheet of Ross. As for printing, if you have a standard printer, you can tile the print onto 8 1/2 x 11 and tape them together. It has yet to fail me.

Update... FB still 88 cents a sheet at WM : https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ross-Foam-Board-White-20-x-30/44640661?athbdg=L1200

 

[Bo123]

You really don't know what I have to go though. Either I can get foam from the store = $15 a sheet. Or Flite test foam, which is only $7 a sheet accounting shipping and conversion prices. But then I have to get it in 50 sheets, which is $400. This is australian dollars.

 

[Aslansmonkey]

Walmart foam board is over twice the weight of dollar tree stuff. It's WAY more dense. The FT plans are designed based on the DT stuff so if you attempt to make something with Walmart foam board it's going to be VERY tail heavy. Most of my early stuff I made with Walmart board and NONE of it flew right. The pinnacle was a P-40 that I didn't even bother putting electronics in because it was very apparent I'd need more than twice the battery weight all the way in the nose just to balance it. Don't use Walmart (or craft store) foam board for RC planes...Period.

Yeah, some of the DT stuff looks beat up, but you won't notice that nearly as much once the plane is built and you won't notice it at all when the plane is flying, which is something you'll have a hard time doing with the Walmart stuff.

Making planes with tiled plans is a pain, I agree. It's the part I hate the most to be honest. But it's a few hours in the evening that you can do in front of the television to tape them together and is well worth the reduction in cost. Frankly, I think Flite Test should sell prints of the plans in addition to the kits. It'd be a good addition to their business I think.

In my case I bought a printer capable of 11x17 printing, so I at least have fewer pages to print per sheet of foam board, but I built plenty on the 8.5x11 stuff.

 

[Piotrsko]

The secret for not beat up foamboard is to avoid crowded stores near elementary schools. If the store has nice empty aisles with items properly in their bins, it probably has decent FB. If the display rack is full, some of it is pristine. If there are toys everywhere on the floor, don't buy supplies there.

 

[Hondo76251]

The secret for not beat up foamboard is to avoid crowded stores near elementary schools. If the store has nice empty aisles with items properly in their bins, it probably has decent FB. If the display rack is full, some of it is pristine. If there are toys everywhere on the floor, don't buy supplies there.

I dont usually have a problem finding good foam at my local dollar store (we still call 50 miles "local" where i live lol) but I would like to know where you find these mystical clean and organized dollar stores! 🤣

 

[Yankee2003]

Time is worth something too.
For me I find it easiest to buy the speed build kit, but rather than build with it i use the pieces and trace them to dollar store or FT FT foamboard and then save the kit itself to make repairs or a whole new plane later if I want.

I have only built the Bloody Baron and the FT P-40 from DTFB. I love your idea about buying a kit and tracing it.
Do you use the actual part? How do you store the “templates” for the next build?
I want take on fully built Bloody Baron to Flitefest next year, and two airframes completed to the point of servos installed to be combat ready as quickly as possible. This year my Bloody Baron only made it through two combat events. A couple spares might last the entire weekend. 🤞
Your method sounds ideal.

 

[Hondo76251]

@Yankee2003, I always keep the pieces of the speed build kit as templates and then cut my own.

I actually prefer the way the hand cut pieces fit together and i find its easier to seal the edges and prevent delamination of the foam because the paper doesnt protrude past the foam the way laser cut pieces do.

I usualy just store them in a plastic trash/grocery bag with the pieces labeled by model. I've thought of going a step farther for models I'd like to be able to keep around and replace a lot. Ive thought about tracing them onto posterboard and keeping them saved that way as it would take less space.

Just some tips for this method:

Keep in mind what side of the line you've traced on. IE- when you trace a piece outline remember to cut on the inside edge of the line.

To do interal cuts and such where the piece you're tracing doesnt go all the way through just use a needle to mark the 4 corners and then a ruler to finish the lines on the working piece.

Also helps to write build notes on your actual pieces, if done correctly you'll find you dont even need the build video for them anymore.


I think tracing pieces onto posterboard would be awesome for what you're talking about. Excellent way to make them more transportable!

 

[Yankee2003]

@Yankee2003, I always keep the pieces of the speed build kit as templates and then cut my own.

I actually prefer the way the hand cut pieces fit together and i find its easier to seal the edges and prevent delamination of the foam because the paper doesnt protrude past the foam the way laser cut pieces do.

I usualy just store them in a plastic trash/grocery bag with the pieces labeled by model. I've thought of going a step farther for models I'd like to be able to keep around and replace a lot. Ive thought about tracing them onto posterboard and keeping them saved that way as it would take less space.

Just some tips for this method:

Keep in mind what side of the line you've traced on. IE- when you trace a piece outline remember to cut on the inside edge of the line.

To do interal cuts and such where the piece you're tracing doesnt go all the way through just use a needle to mark the 4 corners and then a ruler to finish the lines on the working piece.

Also helps to write build notes on your actual pieces, if done correctly you'll find you dont even need the build video for them anymore.


I think tracing pieces onto posterboard would be awesome for what you're talking about. Excellent way to make them more transportable!

Thank you man, I appreciate the quick feedback. I am going to start a thread on my 10 month journey to Flitefest 2023 in part, using you method and hopefully future guidance outlining easy and repeatable finished airframes that anyone can bring to Flitefest next year. There is a lot of great builders out there and my hope is that some of them will share their ideas. In my opinion, the thing that makes Flitefest so great, is that it is a participation event. The more you participate the better your experience will be.
Thank you for taking the time to share your idea. I look forward to learning from you in the next year.

I noticed the Marine symbol….I am an Army veteran…and I thank you for your service brother.

 

[dap35]

Walmart foam board is over twice the weight of dollar tree stuff. It's WAY more dense. The FT plans are designed based on the DT stuff so if you attempt to make something with Walmart foam board it's going to be VERY tail heavy. Most of my early stuff I made with Walmart board and NONE of it flew right. The pinnacle was a P-40 that I didn't even bother putting electronics in because it was very apparent I'd need more than twice the battery weight all the way in the nose just to balance it. Don't use Walmart (or craft store) foam board for RC planes...Period.

Yeah, some of the DT stuff looks beat up, but you won't notice that nearly as much once the plane is built and you won't notice it at all when the plane is flying, which is something you'll have a hard time doing with the Walmart stuff.

Making planes with tiled plans is a pain, I agree. It's the part I hate the most to be honest. But it's a few hours in the evening that you can do in front of the television to tape them together and is well worth the reduction in cost. Frankly, I think Flite Test should sell prints of the plans in addition to the kits. It'd be a good addition to their business I think.

In my case I bought a printer capable of 11x17 printing, so I at least have fewer pages to print per sheet of foam board, but I built plenty on the 8.5x11 stuff.

WM carries several brands of FB. While the Ross might be slightly higher in weight, it isn't far off. I have built with both FT and Ross FB and not seen any appreciable impact.

 

[Draftman1]

for good foambaord, at dollar tree, I ask the counter person if they have any boxes in the back, yeah, its 50 sheets but you can never enough foam board in the house, lol

 

[Yankee2003]

@Yankee2003, I always keep the pieces of the speed build kit as templates and then cut my own.

I actually prefer the way the hand cut pieces fit together and i find its easier to seal the edges and prevent delamination of the foam because the paper doesnt protrude past the foam the way laser cut pieces do.

I usualy just store them in a plastic trash/grocery bag with the pieces labeled by model. I've thought of going a step farther for models I'd like to be able to keep around and replace a lot. Ive thought about tracing them onto posterboard and keeping them saved that way as it would take less space.

Just some tips for this method:

Keep in mind what side of the line you've traced on. IE- when you trace a piece outline remember to cut on the inside edge of the line.

To do interal cuts and such where the piece you're tracing doesnt go all the way through just use a needle to mark the 4 corners and then a ruler to finish the lines on the working piece.

Also helps to write build notes on your actual pieces, if done correctly you'll find you dont even need the build video for them anymore.


I think tracing pieces onto posterboard would be awesome for what you're talking about. Excellent way to make them more transportable!

When you trace out the parts, do you use a spray adhesive to steady the parts on the Foamboard? I’m guessing that pinning them down would cause confusion with the pin holes marking score lines.

 

[Piotrsko]

I dont usually have a problem finding good foam at my local dollar store (we still call 50 miles "local" where i live lol) but I would like to know where you find these mystical clean and organized dollar stores! 🤣

I dunno lucky I guess... there's a couple of high volume ones in odd, out of the way shopping centers which cater to the office trade downtown. Feel your pain, grocery shopping was 50 miles by road, ten miles flying, away, never went home without stopping to fill the gas tank.

 

[Hondo76251]

When you trace out the parts, do you use a spray adhesive to steady the parts on the Foamboard? I’m guessing that pinning them down would cause confusion with the pin holes marking score lines.

Generally dont have too much trouble with them sliding around. Never felt like i needed to attach them.

 

[Tench745]

WM carries several brands of FB. While the Ross might be slightly higher in weight, it isn't far off. I have built with both FT and Ross FB and not seen any appreciable impact.

I had been using Ross foam as well, but they've changed it recently and it is much heavier than it used to be. Still not Elmers heavy, but at least twice the weight of Adams