Here's my 2 cents on it, do not worry about weight foreword of the cg because it's always been really tail heavy for me, try to keep it light behind it. With glue and such, I always used epoxy on the firewall, and either wood or CA on anything else besides maybe the wing spar or gear mount. Building up the front with ply may be a really good idea, as if it hits nice and hard, you may salvage it easier than balsa bits all over. Do try to glue the fuel tank even or above the carb and wrap the receiver and battery in foam to save vibration damage. All the servos should already have rubber mounts. That engine only has the idle needle and air less screw but NO low idle needle. If you get it ready before I or another pilot could help tune it up, this is basically what the manual said, I remember cus I lived by it trying to prep it every single wreck lol
Start by setting your linkage so that no trim is no throttle so you can cut the engine in an emergency or for convenience. Set your idle stop needle (stops the carb from closing all the way its the needle on top the carb) so that it closes but just barely. Then I ususally I turn the idle needle (long needle on the side) clock ways all the way in. This is as lean as it goes, then give it 2 or three turns out, richer, and attempt to start it. Cover the carb hole (without the glow plug starter) and spin it till the fuel line is full of fuel and no air. Then put the glow starter on and spin it up with the electric starter. If it won't start turn the needle out a little (remember to do this all with the idle at half trim and no throttle and priming the fuel lined is done at full throttle) once it starts Set the idle needle first by starting the motor, run it up to full throttle and find where the motor runs at peak rpm, you can tell by the engine noise, the louder the faster. DO NOT run the motor at this setting. Turn the needle out to make the fuel richer until you notice a slight drop in rpm. This is optimal running mixture.
Then the fun part (this took me hours to get right the first time or two it does get easier tho I promise!) set the air bleed screw (small screw at the front of the carb on the right side looking at the front) you want to be able to have the engine idle so it sits still on the ground, but idling really low is not necessary and if you dead stick it because of the idle it's no fun. Set the air bleed so that it idles as smoothe as possible. Then pick it up, at idle you should be able to pitch the nose 45 degrees up and down, your engine should remain smoothe the whole time. Tweak the air bleed, and If you run out of air bleed you may need to use the idle needle and then turn the air bleed back to where it was. And repeat the air bleed headache till it works.
Once it idles happy at 45degrees up and down you can fly. Fuel it up and go, I flew 5 minutes at 1/3 stick and used just under 1/4 tank. And then wrecked it landing hahaha
I do not know if that motor was ever broke in right looking back at it. I always took it for granted.
Try breaking it in before you fly even tho I did fly it.
To break it it simply secure the plane, start it, set it at full throttle and run it really rich, so it blows smoke from the exhaust. Run a full tank thru it at full throttle. Then do it again but this time every 2~ minutes return the stick to idle then full throttle 5-6 times. And repeat until you kill a tank of gas. It might tune easier for you that way and be an overall better experience!
If you want help I can walk you thru it whenever you want till I leave. Hope that all helped you out!!!
