Transferring Plans to Foam Board

SOOFLY

Senior Member
I apologize if this has already been discussed, but how do you guys go about transferring the free plans to foam board. I've printed out the "tiled" plans and I see how they go together. Do you just lay the plans on top of the foam and cut or crease through the plans and into the foam board? It seems if you did it like this you would only be able to use the plans once, because they would get shredded. I just wanted to make sure I was going about it the most efficient way.

Great job FliteTest on the designs and giving us free plans!
 

makattack

Winter is coming
Moderator
Mentor
I trace the plans onto posterboard, and cut the posterboard out as a template. You could do the same with the foamboard, but posterboard tends to cost $1.00 for two sheets.
 

ryane67

Junior Member
I've found an interesting new way to do it. I put together the tiled plans then tape them down to a piece of foam. Punch holes through the plans at each intersection of lines (or small spaces between on curves) with a jeweler's screwdriver. Remove the plans and use a straight edge to draw / cut the foam while keeping the plans beside it for reference on which are scores, cut-throughs, reference lines, etc.

I've found this is a much faster way for me to make a plane, it doesn't trash the plans, and it's more accurate for me than cutting the plans, tracing around onto foam, then cutting the foam.

Yeah the plans can only be re-used a couple of times, but I prefer that over how inaccurate my cuts were getting with the other transfer methods.

Another benefit to this method is if you're making plans where a each half of the wing is on its own piece of DTFB you can stack them up and punch through two boards at a time for all the points.. just make sure to flip the second one over before you cut the scores / reference lines or you will have two right sides (or left sides!) of a wing :)
 

TEAJR66

Flite is good
Mentor
I do it just like ryane67 is talking about, except, I use a sharp pencil so that I get contrast from the pencil lead as it pokes through the foam. Then when I line up mu straight edge, I gently place the pencil in the hole and butt the ruler up against the pencil. Keeps everything aligned nicely. Curved lines get drawn over with a dull pencil. That makes an indent in the foam that is easy to follow with my blade.
 

SP0NZ

FT CAD Gremlin
Staff member
Admin
Moderator
Mentor
Here is the method I've been using which works very well and the templates can last indefinitely.

Supplies:
  • White Poster Board
  • Spray Adhesive (3M Super 77 or equivalent)
  • T-Pin(s)
  • Mechanical Pencil
  • Straight Edge
  • X-Acto or Utility Knife

Making Templates:
  • Print full-sized or tiled plans (cut and tape together the individual tiles)
  • Rough cut-out the individual pieces from the paper plans
  • Glue the individual pieces to poster board with spray adhesive (I use 3M Super 77)
  • Cut out the poster board templates for each piece on the cut lines using an X-Acto or utility knife
  • Poke pin holes through the score, fold and reference lines at both ends of the line
  • (Optional) Label each piece with the plane name, part name, quantity, left/right hand, etc.

Transferring to Foam Board:
  • Position the poster board template onto the foam board
  • Pin the template to the foam board using at least 2 pins (only pin through the top layer of paper) to keep it from moving
  • Trace around the template onto the foam board with a mechanical pencil
  • Mark all the holes (score, crease and reference lines) in the template with a mechanical pencil
  • Remove the pins and the poster board template
  • Connect the dots for your score, crease and reference lines using a straight edge and a mechanical pencil
 

Maingear

Flugzeug Liebhaber
I taped my drawings over the foam board and cut both out at the same time. After they are cut out, I tape them over the foam board and drag a pencil from the plans onto the foam board to sketch the outline, then cut with a straight edge using the sketch as a guide.

I haven't tried it on foam yet, but on aluminum I use chalk dust in a cloth bag (snap line type) to get a outline, then very lightly spray fast drying clear spray paint on top. This locked the chalk and gave a blue outline of the part very quickly.

Justin