What have I gotten myself into?

[brian79cj]

I have been flying electric since I started a long time ago( 6 months) so you know I have tons of experiance.sic...

So I was looking in my local Craigslist adds and came across a Tower Hobbies Tower Trainer 40 complete for $50. I thought wow a complete nitro plane for $50. When I went to look at it, it appeared to be mostly there. The guy said it ran good the last he took it out almost 4 years ago. Well I just had to have it. So after paying him $50 for the plane I picked up another several boxes of assorted goodies. Can't go wrong on an assorted box right? I got it home and out on my bench and that's when the "Oh no what have I done" moment set in. I have no idea where to start with this fossil fuel burning beast.
Things I can see so far. The monkote is in great shape just dirty. Quick whipe down with Mean Green Degreaser and now it's looking better. 2 dead reciever batteries ,gummed up fuel in the tank, the rattle ball on the fuel line won't move. It has a tower hobbies .40R/C ABC engine it spins freely but the carb won't move.

Where do I go from here?
I got a what looks to be new in the box Fox 40BBRC W/LAPPED IRON PISTON 24096
What should be my first thing to do to give this the best chance of breathing again?
I will try to post some pics when I figure out how.

 

[FAI-F1D]

First off, I would highly recommend finding a local R/C club and taking the model out there to get some advice on how to make it go. I say that because although I've got experience with power models, I have yet to run any of my own. Electric has become the path of least resistance...

Things I can tell you:
1. Get a new fuel tank. If that one is gummed up, it's easier to just buy a new one. Get some fuel tubing at the same time. Neither is particularly expensive.
2. Order a UBEC and a receiver Lipo from Hobbyking or some place like that. If you've got a spare lying around, an ESC will provide full UBEC function--just make sure the output cables are insulated from touching each other. Any 500 mah or larger Lipo will provide enough power to run your electrical system for longer than the fuel tank can last and then some.
3. Get some nitro fuel and wash the engine in it. If you have access to it, avgas works just as well (but wash the lead off your hands when you're done). Typically, letting the engine sit in old nitro fuel for a few days will free it up. Since the engine itself turns freely, you should have no trouble getting it operational. Make sure you have spare glowplugs...they die quickly when you're learning. Make sure you have a glowplug starter that works. If not, get one at the hobby shop...they're cheap.
4. Do some bench testing to make sure everything works. Take the model out in your yard and do a few test runs, making sure the model is firmly secured, and keep your hands well away from the prop arc. You'll have to develop a finesse for getting to the needle valve for tuning while the engine is running. There are videos on youtube showing how. In the process, make sure you have your throttle trim set so that idle position doesn't shut down the engine. Don't ask how I know about this. Further, do a fair bit of testing that engine across various throttle settings to make sure it won't shut down on you when you open the throttle quickly because you got into a bad situation--a friend of mine had the engine shut down on his 80" Cub just as he had pulled up after an aborted landing--the resulting impact was, well, loud. And lots of pieces. And a small crater.

5. Bear in mind that you'll need a place to fly where you have plenty of space an no noise constraints. Depending upon what kind of electrics you've been flying, this model probably has a higher stall speed than what you're used to. Give it enough space that you can make a few mistakes without hitting a tree.

Bottom line, power models are FUN, and you'll enjoy the model. You got it at a good price, especially considering the spare parts and NIB engine that came along with it.

 

[brian79cj]

First off, I would highly recommend finding a local R/C club and taking the model out there to get some advice on how to make it go. I say that because although I've got experience with power models, I have yet to run any of my own. Electric has become the path of least resistance...

Things I can tell you:
1. Get a new fuel tank. If that one is gummed up, it's easier to just buy a new one. Get some fuel tubing at the same time. Neither is particularly expensive.
2. Order a UBEC and a receiver Lipo from Hobbyking or some place like that. If you've got a spare lying around, an ESC will provide full UBEC function--just make sure the output cables are insulated from touching each other. Any 500 mah or larger Lipo will provide enough power to run your electrical system for longer than the fuel tank can last and then some.
3. Get some nitro fuel and wash the engine in it. If you have access to it, avgas works just as well (but wash the lead off your hands when you're done). Typically, letting the engine sit in old nitro fuel for a few days will free it up. Since the engine itself turns freely, you should have no trouble getting it operational. Make sure you have spare glowplugs...they die quickly when you're learning. Make sure you have a glowplug starter that works. If not, get one at the hobby shop...they're cheap.
4. Do some bench testing to make sure everything works. Take the model out in your yard and do a few test runs, making sure the model is firmly secured, and keep your hands well away from the prop arc. You'll have to develop a finesse for getting to the needle valve for tuning while the engine is running. There are videos on youtube showing how. In the process, make sure you have your throttle trim set so that idle position doesn't shut down the engine. Don't ask how I know about this. Further, do a fair bit of testing that engine across various throttle settings to make sure it won't shut down on you when you open the throttle quickly because you got into a bad situation--a friend of mine had the engine shut down on his 80" Cub just as he had pulled up after an aborted landing--the resulting impact was, well, loud. And lots of pieces. And a small crater.

5. Bear in mind that you'll need a place to fly where you have plenty of space an no noise constraints. Depending upon what kind of electrics you've been flying, this model probably has a higher stall speed than what you're used to. Give it enough space that you can make a few mistakes without hitting a tree.

Bottom line, power models are FUN, and you'll enjoy the model. You got it at a good price, especially considering the spare parts and NIB engine that came along with it.

Thanks FAI-F1D,
I sure I will stick with electric but this is just something to tinker with. I joined a club A couple months ago and there is plenty of room there to fly. This is my winter project and seems a lot to ask of guys I have just met. I wanted to see how far I can get on it before I ask for their help.

I got the carb all cleaned and freed up last night.

Should i just scrap the original RX and tX? Switch it over to 2.4? At the very least I will have to buy all new batteries for Tx and Rx.

 

[AkimboGlueGuns]

Should i just scrap the original RX and tX? Switch it over to 2.4?

From what i've read 2.4 is the superior system for ease of use but has less range than a 72mhz radio. I guess it would really depend on how you fly it, if you just plan an flying line of sight then 2.4 is probably the easiest and cheapest option for you.

 

[pgerts]

..came across a Tower Hobbies Tower Trainer 40 complete for $50.
.. this fossil fuel burning beast.
.. 2 dead reciever batteries ,
....gummed up fuel in the tank, the rattle ball on the fuel line won't move. It
....I got a what looks to be new in the box Fox 40BBRC
...I will try to post some pics when I figure out how.

You will have a great time with a really fun plane to fly.
You will learn a lot that you probably have missed.

Sorry - Alcohol and oil are not fossil fuel - you are still able to fly environmentally clean - unless your car runs on fossil fuel.

My suggestion is to use a 2 cell lipo (without any ubec) or a 4 cell LSD NiMh and a 2,4 radio.

Technial alcohol used for any cleaning will get your carb free and your tank up to date after some exercise ;-)

I envy your new FOX 40 - I do only have a really old 15 and a CL 35 50 anniversary version with the new top and back.

PLEASE - we want to see your pictures.
Did you get a fuel pump? It will help you clean the tank and fuel lines.

 

[brian79cj]

I finally got to take some pictures.

 

[brian79cj]

The last pic of the firewall is the only damage I see. I hope the firewall is okay.

 

[Blue02TJ]

The firewall looks ok in the picture. It's not uncommon to knock the firewall off on a trainer like this when learning to fly. I've defiantly done it my fair share of times. Just make sure it's not loose if so epoxy it back. You will want to wrap the receiver and batteries in foam. To get the COG right you might have to put the batteries under the fuel tank. Nitro is allot of fun if you know how to tune it ect if not it can be very frustrating. Best thing to do is find someone to help and show you how to tune it. I pulled one of my nitro planes out of the closet and flew it for the first time in at least 5 years. It started right up so if you store them correctly it's no problem letting them sit a few years.

 

[pgerts]

I would have replaced the old RC-gear with new 2,4.
There is a lot to think about with the old long antenna equipment.
Oxides on the boards and connectors. Dirt on the antenna giving bad output.
The flux and solder used on the old Hitecs have caused a lot of strange "rolls" on my old school planes caused by the radios before i realized the problems.
Everyting can be cleaned and tested but a new TX and RX is a lot safer.

 

[brian79cj]

Thanks for the advise guys. I suspect I have a new DX6 under the Christmas tree and it comes with 2 of the AR610 RXs so I will be putting 1 of those in. The motor and tank are all cleaned up and mounted to a motor stand i built to test it. I called a buddy to come over this weekend to help me start it and make sure its going to run ok before I put it back in plane. Snow is starting to happen here so don't know when I will be able to fly it.

 

[adamd]

Great little find. Soak the carb in gas to get it unstuck, then pull apart for cleaning and do as stated above find someone who has some experience with glow. They're temperamental and can bite really good. All else fails EP Conversion

 

[pgerts]

..Snow is starting to happen here so don't know when I will be able to fly it.

Skis!!