XT60 Connector Issues

[SOOFLY]

I've been using 4mm bullet connectors on my batteries and ESC's for a while now. Between the 3.5 bullet connectors on the motor side and the 4mm on the battery I've probably soldered at least 50 of these connectors. They are so easy because there is a small hole in the side that allows you to stick the tip of the iron in and heat the solder. It makes it very easy to heat the solder and push the wire into the hole at the same time, making a perfect solder job every time.

I decided to switch everything over to XT60's last night and after about an hour of messing with them I had only solder two XT60 connectors. I could have done a bunch of bullets connections in that time. First, the bullets on the XT60 are cut length wise in half so they don't hold solder like a normal bullet connector does. Also, there is no hole in the side to push the iron through to heat the connector so you have to heat both the wire and the connector at the same time and then push the wire into the connector. I am tinning both the connector and the wire before joining them like your supposed to do. I've watched 4 videos on youtube on soldering the XT60's and I guess I just don't have a strong enough soldering iron to transfer enough heat through the wire and connector at the same time. I'm using a cheap 25 watt iron that doesn't have any adjustments or settings. Maybe its time to invest in a soldering station.

Any of you guys having success soldering XT60's with a cheap 25 watt iron?

 

[BridgeInspector]

I have 25 watt iron and have no issue with xt60 or bullets as long as I add a bit of solder to the iron tip each time I touch it to the metal.

 

[SOOFLY]

I have 25 watt iron and have no issue with xt60 or bullets as long as I add a bit of solder to the iron tip each time I touch it to the metal.

Do you add solder to the iron tip before you touch it to the metal or at the same time? Thanks for the tips

 

[BridgeInspector]

Just before. It helps conduct heat. What solder do you use? I think mine is 60/40 with flux core , or something like that.

Usally takes about 5 secs for connector to heat enough to fill well with solder. If you put tinned wire in at same time or shortly after it remelts solder quickly while it is still hot.

 

[SOOFLY]

Just before. It helps conduct heat. What solder do you use? I think mine is 60/40 with flux core , or something like that.

I'm using some cheap electrical solder I bought from Ace Hardware. I think it says rosin core, but doesn't give any ratios. I've never had any problems until now. I'm going to see if radio shack has some decent solder this weekend.

I will definitely put some solder on the tip of the iron and see if that helps. Thanks.

 

[mikemacwillie]

One suggestion I have is to get a larger tip for your iron, if you're using a pointed tip currently. A 1/4" or so chisel tip will make it much easier to solder, because the increased mass in the tip will help transfer heat more quickly. Always keep your tip clean and tinned.

 

[HawkMan]

No matter what connector you are soldering both the wire and connector needs to be heated for a good solder, this is actually harder on the bullets, especially if you want the insulation all the way into the connector. So if you just heat the connector and feed the solder into the hole, you actually get a bad solder.

 

[HawkMan]

XT60 needs a strong set of helping hands though(tighten those screws good), best is a good jig, but I haven't gouda cheap and good jig yet

 

[willsonman]

Meh, I use a pen butane torch for them. Soldering takes about 5 seconds. a bit of a tip for doing this is to plug in a black to the other side. This will prevent the plastic from deforming so much that your metal connectors will be askew.

 

[BridgeInspector]

 

[Mostly Harmless]

Lacking a small table-top vise, I use a pair of pliers with a rubber band around the grips to hold them closed -- This holds the XT60 connectors steady enough, but allows me to shift them easily to get to the other side. (The connectors are just a bit too wide to fit easily in my "helping hands" holder -- they keep popping loose as I put pressure on them). I use a 35 watt soldering iron with a medium tip. If I'm in a hurry, I use the large Weller soldering gun, but must be careful not to apply so much heat as to melt the plastic.

As mentioned by BridgeInspector, a little solder at the tip increases the surface area to conduct more heat to the connectors.

 

[joshuabardwell]

25 watts is enough heat. Definitely get a chisel tip instead of a pointy tip, if that's the issue. The size of the contact point influences the heat transfer. What I do is this:

1. Get out the helping hands and put the XT60 in the helping hands.
2. Heat the bullet near the tip (where the wire will go in) and quickly put in a big glob of solder. Have to be quick about it to keep it from flowing deeper into the bullet. Don't use the flat part of the chisel-tip of the iron. Use the narrow tip so that heat transfer is minimized. I want a blob of solder waiting to flow onto the wire. It helps to be right there as soon as the metal hits the flow temperature, and to feed quickly so as to cool the puddle more.
3. Tin the wire.
4. Set the (cold) wire into the crook of the bullet. Lay the chisel tip of the iron so that it touches both the wire and the top of the half-open part of the bullet. Wait until the wire and the blob of solder in the bullet flow, then jam the wire the rest of the way in.
5. Continue to hold it in place until it cools.

 

[whiskeyjack]

Joshua has some really good advice there. If you want to get a real good tutorial on soldering check out "RC Model Reviews". Bruce Simpson is a great teacher and takes you though the different tips, wattage of the iron, types of solder and so on.
The right tool always makes the job easier. Your 25w iron is fine for delicate work but it will take longer to heat up something with a lot of mass like an XT60.
I also have a "Weller Soldering Gun" dual heat, but care must be taken since it will heat the connector quickly and the plastic around the pin. If you melt that your XT60 is more or less garbage.
Consider an iron in the 40-60 watt range and set your 25w aside for more delicate work. I prefer a fine tip and "electronic" solder for soldering connections of any type. Avoid using general purpose solder from a hardware store as it is meant for copper joints in plumbing applications. The resin is corrosive and eventually your solder joint will fail and you would not want that to happen on short final on a windy day. WJ.

 

[SOOFLY]

I really appreciate all the suggestions guys!

My dad introduced me to flying 20 years ago when I was 10 years old. We had 3-4 gas planes and were members of some local fields. One of the seasoned members took us under his wing and for about a year straight he met us out at the field every weekend and buddy boxed both my dad and I. We both soloed under this instructor, but for some reason we stopped flying a couple years later. I got back into the hobby a couple years ago and have been using all my dads old hobby stuff. Going through the old hobby stuff, I can't believe how much he invested in the hobby back then. Long story short.... my soldering iron and tips are 20 years old, solid black and would not tin or hold solder. Until your suggestions I had not even thought about the condition of my solder tips or worried about tinning the tip of my iron. I went and picked up a new tip, some 60/40 rosin core solder and rosin flux (i had never used flux).

I can't believe the difference. The new tip actual tins and the heat transfer is unbelievable, even with my 25watt weller iron. The XT60's are really easy like all of you have said. I had never seen the solder actually flow through the joint like it supposed to.

 

[BridgeInspector]

Great!

 

[Gryf]

When soldering XT-60s, I always plug the connector into another one so the pins stay aligned if the plastic softens. And I use a Helping Hands setup I picked up cheap at Harbor Freight... Works great, and even has a magnifying glass and lights.

Gryf

 

[xray328]

I'm using the cheap hobbico unit and it works great. Like others have said, wipe the tip, melt some solder on it and touch the connector. mine gets hot enough to get the solder flowing within 2-3 seconds. just melt a little into the connector. Same thing with the wire. Then just slip the wire into the connector, wipe the tip, add a little solder to the tip to conduct the heat better and touch it to the connector. The solder in the connector melts along with the solder on the wire, all done.

And yeah, the old rubber band around the plier handles works like a charm for holding the connector as your third hand.