130mm quadcopter build

[Nathan_116]

Hey FliteTest community!!!!!

So, after Building and flying my 250mm quad, I wanted something a little bit smaller. Something easier to fly around my tiny backyard. I didn't want to get a nano qx fpv or something like that though as I wanted a little more power for when I get good. I also wanted some more experience building a craft. So, after doing a lot of research, I have compiled a list of parts for my build and would like for someone to review and give feedback before I order. I am planning on making this a 3s build so all my parts are gonna be based around 3s.

One last thing, I am trying to do this on a college budget, aka as cheap as possible, so please don't suggest that I swap out one of my budget parts for a variant that costs $100. If its a few bucks more I may consider though. This is more about making sure I have everything, but if you have first hand experience on an specific part let me know!!!

Frame: RCX H130 frame

Motors: RCX 1407 5000kv (I was told that the higher the KV the better for these small machines. I am also planning on making this 3s)

ESC: RCX 20A (FVT Little Bee Pro) 4-In-1 ESC with EBC 5V-1A (Easier to mount than individual escs on the arms. Also, lighter and less expensive than individual escs)

Flight Controller: SP Racing F3

OSD: FPV OSD - This may be changed to the normal Minim OSD as a lot of people are having issues with them as they have like no documentation on them.

Camera: Eachine 700TVL 2.6mm Lens 1/3 CMOS 110 Degree FPV Mini Camera

Video TX: Eachine 700tvl ET200 5.8G 32CH 200mW Mini Transmitter - I already own this, its on my 250. I'm planning on upgrading the 2590 to a 600mw VTX.

Antenna: 5.8G FPV

Receiver: Tiny Frsky 8CH Receiver - I believe this has Telemetry, but I'm not sure. Gonna use it in conjunction with my Turnigy 9x with the FrSky DJT module.

Battery: Turnigy Graphene 800mAh 3S 45C Lipo Pack w/XT60 - gonne be getting the 1500mah 3s for my 250 quad too.

Prop: 3030 triblades - let me know where you get your from. I want something durable but cheap. I always got my rpops from theblukpropguy, but he appears to be done selling for right now.

There you go, have fun!!

 

[Razrielle]

I'm gonna touch on the FC. Is there a reason your going for a full SP3 instead of a SP Evo? It's $2 more but I hear the build quality of them is a bit better and you also get to use a microSD for blackbox logging.

Also, I see you don't have a power distro board. Here's one that looks like it might be good for you http://www.myrcmart.com/f3f3-evo-pdb-with-5v-12v-bec-p-9940.html

 

[Nathan_116]

I'm gonna touch on the FC. Is there a reason your going for a full SP3 instead of a SP Evo? It's $2 more but I hear the build quality of them is a bit better and you also get to use a microSD for blackbox logging.

Also, I see you don't have a power distro board. Here's one that looks like it might be good for you http://www.myrcmart.com/f3f3-evo-pdb-with-5v-12v-bec-p-9940.html

Will have to look into the SP Evo. Quite frankly just picked the Full SP3 because it was on sale. I wonder what the difference is?

As for the PDB, I though that my chosen 4in1 ESC had a BEC built in and all, but it doesn't (good catch). I'm gonna change it to this: LittleBee PRO 20Ax4 ESC With 5V BEC. I like the 4in1 option with built in BEC to save space and weight.

 

[Ocean]

Have you seen this?

Cheaper than the little bee one and better performance. Only issue is no 5V bec.

Also I wouldn't run those RCX's on more than 3S, even then might be pushing it. When I mean't high kV i mean't more the 4000kV mark, my bad for not making it clear. You can probably still run 3S though, but might be inefficient. I noticed they also do a deal where for $3 less you get no warranty or support, seems worth it IMO since those Chinese companies are unlikely to give you warranty or support anyway!

 

[Nathan_116]

Have you seen this?

Cheaper than the little bee one and better performance. Only issue is no 5V bec.

Also I wouldn't run those RCX's on more than 3S, even then might be pushing it. When I mean't high kV i mean't more the 4000kV mark, my bad for not making it clear. You can probably still run 3S though, but might be inefficient. I noticed they also do a deal where for $3 less you get no warranty or support, seems worth it IMO since those Chinese companies are unlikely to give you warranty or support anyway!

I actually originally had that 4in1 picked out, but went instead for the other just for the BEC. Might switch to individual ESCs to fit in a PDF with voltage regulators. I don't know though. I anyone out there has built a 130mm quad and you know, please share you knowledge.

Also, the motors are speced for 3s using 3030 props, 2s for anything smaller.

 

[LitterBug]

I've been using DYS BX1306 4000kv and EMAX RS1306 4000kv motors with RotorX RX3040T triblade props and beating the snot out of them on 4S with no issues. They are pretty tame on 3S but really wake up on 4S. Their price is not that much more than what you are considering. Tested quite a few different 3" props and the RX are the lightest and worked the best for my setup.

Cheers!
LitterBug

EDIT: I used a 4in1 20A esc with BEC on one micro build and have never regretted it. It simplified the build and made it much cleaner and lighter without having to have a PDB in addition to the ESCs.

 

[Ocean]

I use the HGLRC F3 V2.0 on my atom, works good but the micro jst are a pain. The V2.1 uses more solder pads however which is good.

BTW littlebug do you prefer the DYS or EMAX motors?

 

[LitterBug]

I use the HGLRC F3 V2.0 on my atom, works good but the micro jst are a pain. The V2.1 uses more solder pads however which is good.

BTW littlebug do you prefer the DYS or EMAX motors?

I absolutely HATE the micro connectors on FCs and I always try to direct solder everything. Especially on micro builds with tight tolerances where the props tend to whack anything sticking out. I have one micro build with a 4in1 ESC that was necessary to use the micro connector and I'm always paranoid it will get knocked loose at the wrong time.

My Gut instinct tells me the EMAX motors run smoother, but it could all be in my head. The EMAX run cooler, are a buck cheaper, and look better. Both have been very durable even under the extreme torture I put them through with my heavy micro setup (300+grams). I was practically trying to burn the DYS up last week doing long punch out battery testing one battery after another without any time to cool. Even ran one test with top heavy, imbalanced, 400grams WOT trying to get speed readings with my bike GPS just for Shiggles. https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/1319896313 Was getting ready to swap the DYS out for the T-Motor F20s so didn't really care and was cooking the living snot out of them. They just kept asking for more.


Cheers!
LitterBug