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36" Northern Pike - 3D Printed Cuda Clone (It Flies & STL's are Posted!)

I got this problem with the first wing section. I'm printing @230c and 50mm/sec and followed the guides for the settings as far as i could find.
The laers don't seem to stick only on that place.

[edit] I will try to print at 0.2 first as this is mentioned as one of the issues printing at 0.25.
print.jpg
 
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On Thingiverse there is a profile called thinwallAirplanePLA.curaprofile that I have tried to use but it does not seem to work on my Ender 3. Maybe you will have better luck.
This Cura profile for my Ender 3 does slice it but see my post above. It seems i'm nearly there just a small issue with the layer adhesion i think.

[edit] I just read that this could be caused by the layer hight. I have now set it to 0.2 in the profile below.
 

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localfiend

I like 3D printers...
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That part can be a bit tricky to print depending on the filament. Some prints it perfectly, others have issues, and if you have issues with white filament it's far more obvious than on transparent colored stuff.

It's one of the reasons I really like simplify3d. For trouble filaments I can slow down the printer, widen the print width, and incrementally decrease the layer height to .15 just for that one tricky section.

Of course, the other thing you can do with white is add a bit of the back side to seal it up and make it invisible.

When I designed the plane, I planned for PETG, but the first prints were clear PLA, so that being a trouble spot didn't show up until I was too far into the design to lessen the slope.
 
That part can be a bit tricky to print depending on the filament. Some prints it perfectly, others have issues, and if you have issues with white filament it's far more obvious than on transparent colored stuff.
I will try it again at 0.2.
The thing is that Simplify3d costs money and if you are on a budget printer of 200 dollars and you have to spent another 149 on the software... ;-)

Now that the budget times are over i will probably end up buying it.
 

waur

New member
@localfiend

Any chance you've had time to do S3D Factory Files or i3 gcode for the 27" version?

I'm trying to print a little brother for my big pike but am struggling getting the settings tuned in for a few pieces of the wing.
 

localfiend

I like 3D printers...
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@localfiend

Any chance you've had time to do S3D Factory Files or i3 gcode for the 27" version?

I'm trying to print a little brother for my big pike but am struggling getting the settings tuned in for a few pieces of the wing.
I have not. I can help out if you post pictures of what you're having trouble with though.
 

waur

New member
I was able to print the fuselage pieces and the first wing pieces at 235/70 but the other wing pieces printed poorly. I've used these settings on 5-6kg of this brand PETG, including on the 36" N. Pike, so I'm not sure if something changed or if it's related to printing with the 0.3mm nozzle.

After spending some time printing temp towers and stringing tests I found I was printing too cold (or I need to calibrate the hotend thermistor) and had some retraction settings I needed to adjust.

I'm only 1.5hrs into a 9hr wing part print but it's looking a lot better.
 
This Cura profile for my Ender 3 does slice it but see my post above. It seems i'm nearly there just a small issue with the layer adhesion i think.

[edit] I just read that this could be caused by the layer hight. I have now set it to 0.2 in the profile below.
Unfortunately after I download and unzip it I get an error message: Contains incorrect data, could not import.

It's very strange. When I process a part with 0% infill I can see the internal structure, but it just won't print. I keep getting a hollow part. If I use and infill percentage I have to then choose a pattern which is not what I want.
 
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localfiend

I like 3D printers...
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Unfortunately after I download and unzip it I get an error message: Contains incorrect data, could not import.

It's very strange. When I process a part with 0% infill I can see the internal structure, but it just won't print. I keep getting a hollow part. If I use and infill percentage I have to then choose a pattern which is not what I want.
Use the 3.6 version of Cura. Apparently the new update doesn't like profiles from the previous version anymore.
 
OK, got it all figured out. First of all, I think I should have mentioned I am on a UBUNTU machine running CURA 4.1.0.

Anyway I downloaded the new 4.3.0 version and used the original CURA profile provided in Thingiverse and it's printing! Some minor stringing issues but I'll just tweak the settings here and there.

Thanks for all the help! It was appreciated!
 
Has anybody printed this on an Ender 3 using Cura? I cant seem to find the setting that will slice the inner rib structures. If so, i would really appreciate it if you could send me your cura print profile that I could import to make it work. Thanks for any help you can lend.
I just started. I had to upgrade to the latest version of CURA (4.3 - UBUNTU version). First attempt looked promising, then I changed the layer height to .2 ...bad choice. Stringing everywhere. Will continue working on this project for the next week or so as time allows.
 
hello i want to print this plane then mold it to cast it with expensive foam in order to make him lighter an easy to reproduce in case of damage and i wanted to know if i can scale down the model (by 2x or 2.5x) because is too big and it will cost me a lot to print it (i don't have printer and it cost like 0,11 euro/g in the fablab of my university) and i also need to thicken the wall of the plane so it will be easier to print but i don't know how to do it . So if some one can help me ill be really thanksfull . Thanks you .
 

localfiend

I like 3D printers...
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hello i want to print this plane then mold it to cast it with expensive foam in order to make him lighter an easy to reproduce in case of damage and i wanted to know if i can scale down the model (by 2x or 2.5x) because is too big and it will cost me a lot to print it (i don't have printer and it cost like 0,11 euro/g in the fablab of my university) and i also need to thicken the wall of the plane so it will be easier to print but i don't know how to do it . So if some one can help me ill be really thanksfull . Thanks you .
Because of the way the plane is drawn in CAD, if you want to increase the thickness, all you need to do is print with more perimeters. Keep in mind that adding a perimeter will double the weight of the plane, so you really wouldn't want to do this if the plan was to fly the plane. Also, it'l cost more if you're paying by the gram. The wing pieces are quite strong, so if you planned to use the shape for casting, you probably don't need to thicken them. There's more flex in the fuselage though, so you could add plastic there.

Shrinking the plane by 2x would make for a very tiny airframe. I don't know what kind of foam and electronics you'd want to use at that size, but it would need to be really light to keep the wing loading down. I don't know what kind of printer you have access to, or if you can swap out nozzles, but the 27" version of this plane is quite a bit lighter, and you use a .3mm nozzle.
 
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Because of the way the plan is drawn in CAD, if you want to increase the thickness, all you need to do is print with more perimeters. Keep in mind that adding a perimeter will double the weight of the plane, so you really wouldn't want to do this if the plan was to fly the plane. Also, it'l cost more if you're paying by the gram. The wing pieces are quite strong, so if you planned to use the shape for casting, you probably don't need to thicken them. There's more flex in the fuselage though, so you could add plastic there.

Shrinking the plane by 2x would make for a very tiny airframe. I don't know what kind of foam and electronics you'd want to use at that size, but it would need to be really light to keep the wing loading down. I don't know what kind of printer you have access to, or if you can swap out nozzles, but the 27" version of this plane is quite a bit lighter, and you use a .3mm nozzle.
Ok thank you i will try without Shrinking it and my plan is to mold it with silicon and cast it with expending foam . For the propultion i think i will use a cheap aliexpress brushless motor
 

localfiend

I like 3D printers...
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almost there, 72" Northern Pike scaled 200%, printed with 0.8 nozzle in PLA, nose motormount and firewall in PETG. All in weight 6.5kg +- including dualsky XM6360EA-12, 12S Lipo, Camera / Landing Gear / Wheels. ESC, Ardupilot, RaspberryPI and Satellite comms w/ Glonass/GPS.
Hah. That's gigantic. I'm betting it'l fly amazing at that size. You planning on fixed gear of some sort?
 
@localfiend great job on the design man. Kudos from me! But im having a big problem - for all the parts one corner is always like this... the bad part is always at the front left corner of the heated bed even when object is rotated) For some parts its worse, for some its not that bad. I thought bed leveling is the issue but this happens even after bed is levelled. This is 27 inch model btw. Thanks in advance!
 

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localfiend

I like 3D printers...
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@localfiend great job on the design man. Kudos from me! But im having a big problem - for all the parts one corner is always like this... the bad part is always at the front left corner of the heated bed even when object is rotated) For some parts its worse, for some its not that bad. I thought bed leveling is the issue but this happens even after bed is levelled. This is 27 inch model btw. Thanks in advance!
Yeah, that's not a leveling issue, it's a retraction problem. What printer, settings, and slicer are you using?

What's going on is your printing is sucking up too much filament at the end of a layer, and you get a blank bit at the start of the next one. You can reduce the retraction, but if that leads to stringing, another fix is to add some extra restart distance.
 
Yeah, that's not a leveling issue, it's a retraction problem. What printer, settings, and slicer are you using?

What's going on is your printing is sucking up too much filament at the end of a layer, and you get a blank bit at the start of the next one. You can reduce the retraction, but if that leads to stringing, another fix is to add some extra restart distance.
Printer is cheapo Anet A8 plywood edition lol. the prints actually come out pretty good... except for the part in the picture. Im using cura and settings are Yours from the thingverse ( retraction specifically is set to 0.8mm) PLA is devil design.