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3D printed firewall

sprzout

Knower of useless information
Mentor
#7
I'd make sure you print it at least 25% infill, especially if it's a Versa Wing firewall, and watch the heat/sun - if it's printed in PLA, it'll warp in higher heat temps. I had one that warped from sitting in my car last summer...
 
#10
Heard of folks using printed firewalls and control horns. I get my ply at Menards. But depends where you live. Good luck, let us know how it goes!
will do but may be some time as I am waiting for electronics. and the 540 build will start after the mini mustang, but mini mustang has printed firewall and horns, just waiting on servos. will update with both.
 

Wildthing

Well-known member
#11
I print all my firewalls, usually 3.5mm thick and 40% infill . If I am using the X mount and servo screws I will put a drop of ca glue onto the threads . Yes you have to watch how hot you get the motors, I have landed after a hard flight and watched my motor starting to sag down, had to hold it inplace until the plastic got hard again :D :D . But I have also adjusted my thrust angle using a heat gun and warming up the motor until the plastic got soft and then held it where I wanted it to be.
 

CapnBry

Well-known member
#15
I 3D print all my firewalls and most of my control horns. Usually something like this with a little lip to center it in the foam. I usually only print 15-20% infill (rectilinear doesn't add much strength anyway) and 3 perimeters at 0.63mm extrusion width. Any material works. I'd prefer ABS but it takes like 10 minutes for my print bed to stabilize to 105C so I rarely have the patience. PETG is good but a little flexy. PLA is the only think I'll print control horns in for its stiffness, and almost all of my PLA firewalls have been OK. I don't have a setup that pulls more than 15A wide open though so my motors always come down warm but not much more than if they were just left in the Florida sun for half an hour. Even that is a bit close to PLA deformation temperature though.

firewall-galleon.png


I used to 3D print the whole power pod, but it was always a challenge to get the skewers to go through at the exact right spot that lined up with the designed holes and the right height/depth for where the motor should end up. DTFB power pods have worked out better and I just poke the holes and then reinforce them with either 3D printed plates or just some cut polypropylene strips cut from chinese takeout lids.
 
#16
I 3D print all my firewalls and most of my control horns. Usually something like this with a little lip to center it in the foam. I usually only print 15-20% infill (rectilinear doesn't add much strength anyway) and 3 perimeters at 0.63mm extrusion width. Any material works. I'd prefer ABS but it takes like 10 minutes for my print bed to stabilize to 105C so I rarely have the patience. PETG is good but a little flexy. PLA is the only think I'll print control horns in for its stiffness, and almost all of my PLA firewalls have been OK. I don't have a setup that pulls more than 15A wide open though so my motors always come down warm but not much more than if they were just left in the Florida sun for half an hour. Even that is a bit close to PLA deformation temperature though.

View attachment 167247

I used to 3D print the whole power pod, but it was always a challenge to get the skewers to go through at the exact right spot that lined up with the designed holes and the right height/depth for where the motor should end up. DTFB power pods have worked out better and I just poke the holes and then reinforce them with either 3D printed plates or just some cut polypropylene strips cut from chinese takeout lids.
Great info thank you.
 

dehager

Well-known member
#18
I print a lot of firewalls and primarily use PETG. You can eliminate hardware by threading into the plastic, no need for nuts and washers if you size the holes properly. The only down side is weight depending on the design. Sometimes a plywood mount may be lighter in weight for the application. Not all weight is bad as long as it is functional weight. An example would be its better to have a heaver firewall than to have to add nose weight to balance the CG.

This is a FRCFoamies A-10 MK2 motor mount hot off the printer weighing in at 5.64g (0.199oz).

Motor Mount.JPG
IMG_1743.jpg
 

Sero

Well-known member
#19
I print a lot of firewalls and primarily use PETG. You can eliminate hardware by threading into the plastic, no need for nuts and washers if you size the holes properly. The only down side is weight depending on the design. Sometimes a plywood mount may be lighter in weight for the application. Not all weight is bad as long as it is functional weight. An example would be its better to have a heaver firewall than to have to add nose weight to balance the CG.

This is a FRCFoamies A-10 MK2 motor mount hot off the printer weighing in at 5.64g (0.199oz).

View attachment 167618 View attachment 167619
Looks good! I've been using PLA with good results but I have my first spool of PETG coming on Monday, anxious to try. I use screws to mount my motors to the firewalls, will that work with PETG or do you make threads in and use bolts? I'm just wondering if PETG is too flexy for screws.
I've tried ABS and I haven't been able to get good adhesion, I think I need to build an enclosure to get the results I would like.
 

dehager

Well-known member
#20
Looks good! I've been using PLA with good results but I have my first spool of PETG coming on Monday, anxious to try. I use screws to mount my motors to the firewalls, will that work with PETG or do you make threads in and use bolts? I'm just wondering if PETG is too flexy for screws.
I've tried ABS and I haven't been able to get good adhesion, I think I need to build an enclosure to get the results I would like.
The higher temp rating and flexibility is what makes it well suited for motor mounts. It is not rubbery and will not crack under stress. You can either drill and tap threads or self thread if you size the hole properly for the screw.

Screw Drill and Tap Size
M3 - 2.5mm (0.098")
M4 - 3.3mm (0.130")

2-56 - #50 (0.070")
4-40 - #43 (0.089")