[Build Log] Cheap 250 racing quadcopter

[OPO]

Well... where should I start.. This was a fun build.

A few weeks back I asked a few questions on this forum about the parts I bought for this build. I quickly came to the conclusion that I had no idea what I got myself into it... But thankfully two members(cranialrectosis and jhitesma) stepped in and gave me a lot of tips and suggestions.

So... let's begin with the build I used the following :

• MT1806 2280kv Brushless Motor (EMax)
• 12A Simonk ESC (Unknown brand)
• CC3D Flight Controller
• Props are still in order
• And a cheap 250 frame

I started with building the frame, this part was probably the easiest part in the build.

After that I hooked up the motors and ESCs(I watched some videos on how to do this properly)

At this part I had some struggles, I had to solder all the ESCs together, I got a power board that would make it easy for me to solder it in and make it work but I have seen some people wire it all together on the wire that goes to the battery, since I had no idea on how safe it was I just used the powerboard.

Hookinh up the flightcontroller was a nightmare..... I tried using my Orange RX for it but the cheap reseller didn't include the wires with the servo leads they were not labeled it was just a big mess. I ended up using my Lemon RX PPM receiver.

The finished quad:

So the quad went together pretty good considering I only got mad twice and I burned myself once with the soldering iron... I still have to wait for hobbyking to deliverer my props and Lipos.

Do you guys have any suggestions on how I could place the powerboard better? I don't like the way it's placed right now. Also I have read online that the Naza flight controllers are perfect for racing quads, what do you guys recommend?

(If I posted this in the wrong section please forgive me)

 

[Quad]

Very Nice! Congrats and thanks for sharing!

 

[OPO]

Very Nice! Congrats and thanks for sharing!

Thanks!

I 3d printed some nice legs that I found on thingiverse

 

[cranialrectosis]

I would mount the power distro board under the CC3D. Use nylon standoffs to raise the power board above the center plate. Use a second set of nylon standoffs with O rings to moun the CC3D. That will also raise the flight controller closer to the plane of the rotors.

You might try liquid electrical tape or some other insulator to prevent shorts on that power board.

 

[OPO]

I would mount the power distro board under the CC3D. Use nylon standoffs to raise the power board above the center plate. Use a second set of nylon standoffs with O rings to moun the CC3D. That will also raise the flight controller closer to the plane of the rotors.

You might try liquid electrical tape or some other insulator to prevent shorts on that power board.

Thanks for the suggestion! I didn't place it in the middle because the frame actually is carbon so it would short out, but I will order some liquid electrical tape. Do you have an example of the standoffs you mean? And should I keep the CC3D and buy a correct wiring harness or buy a different flight controller?

 

[cranialrectosis]

I don't use a PDB. I find them limiting.

I do build my own power harnesses and like to tuck all the wires up under the flight controller. About midway down the page you can see how I have mounted my Naze32:
http://forum.flitetest.com/showthread.php?10239-CranialRectosis-Twitchity-Mini-Hex-build

Similar concept here but in this case I am using the proper nylon screws to mount the board:
http://forum.flitetest.com/showthread.php?14472-CranialRectosis-Twitchity-Mini-Tricopter-build

The WarpQuad has a top plate that is mounted on standoffs above the flight controller. I would simply use shorter standoffs and the same concept. You can see in the photos mid-way down the page.
http://forum.flitetest.com/showthread.php?8934-Cranialrectosis-WarpQuad-String-Theory-build

Everything electrical is isolated from the carbon fiber by insulation, heatshrink and in some cases also two sided non-conductive tape and mesh or nylon sleeving to prevent abrasion. The tighter my wiring, the less chance I have of something coming loose and getting caught up in a rotor. This is important on these little copters where the rotors are spinning within an inch of the flight controller.

For optimal results, you want the flight controller on the same plane as the rotors. You must also mitigate vibrations from the motors/rotors from interfering with the operations of the accelerometers on your flight controller, this is why I use standoffs and an O ring sandwich to mount my flight controllers.

I then use the pocket below the flight controller to route wires and create a cleaner build.

 

[OPO]

I don't use a PDB. I find them limiting.

I do build my own power harnesses and like to tuck all the wires up under the flight controller. About midway down the page you can see how I have mounted my Naze32:
http://forum.flitetest.com/showthread.php?10239-CranialRectosis-Twitchity-Mini-Hex-build

Similar concept here but in this case I am using the proper nylon screws to mount the board:
http://forum.flitetest.com/showthread.php?14472-CranialRectosis-Twitchity-Mini-Tricopter-build

The WarpQuad has a top plate that is mounted on standoffs above the flight controller. I would simply use shorter standoffs and the same concept. You can see in the photos mid-way down the page.
http://forum.flitetest.com/showthread.php?8934-Cranialrectosis-WarpQuad-String-Theory-build

Everything electrical is isolated from the carbon fiber by insulation, heatshrink and in some cases also two sided non-conductive tape and mesh or nylon sleeving to prevent abrasion. The tighter my wiring, the less chance I have of something coming loose and getting caught up in a rotor. This is important on these little copters where the rotors are spinning within an inch of the flight controller.

For optimal results, you want the flight controller on the same plane as the rotors. You must also mitigate vibrations from the motors/rotors from interfering with the operations of the accelerometers on your flight controller, this is why I use standoffs and an O ring sandwich to mount my flight controllers.

I then use the pocket below the flight controller to route wires and create a cleaner build.

Thanks a lot for all your help, I get what you mean with having the flightcontroller on the same plane as the rotors, I will be getting a Naze FC whenever I get some money.

After I maiden this quad I want to remove the PDB since It's a but bulky and not needed, I will be making my own harness using this wire: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9674__Turnigy_Pure_Silicone_Wire_12AWG_1mtr_BLACK.html (I think it's the correct AWG)? The frame I got has two bottom plates that bold together, I can put the harness inbetween those plates.

Is it recommended to shorten the motor wires so they are the correct length? Or is this not worth doing?

 

[xuzme720]

Thanks a lot for all your help, I get what you mean with having the flightcontroller on the same plane as the rotors, I will be getting a Naze FC whenever I get some money.

After I maiden this quad I want to remove the PDB since It's a but bulky and not needed, I will be making my own harness using this wire: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9674__Turnigy_Pure_Silicone_Wire_12AWG_1mtr_BLACK.html (I think it's the correct AWG)? The frame I got has two bottom plates that bold together, I can put the harness inbetween those plates.

Is it recommended to shorten the motor wires so they are the correct length? Or is this not worth doing?

At the lengths we use, it's not a major deal. There have been many discussions back and forth over whether it needs to be done or not due to voltage loss, wire resistance, etc, etc. Over longer lengths it can be a major factor, but on the lengths we use on our models, it's not a major concern as long as you use the correct gauge wire, which you are, as long as you use the same gauge as what's on there stock(a bit larger is also acceptable).

 

[cranialrectosis]

The acro Naze32s are great boards and cheap. Skip the full version and save the money. If you want GPS look elsewhere.

I like building my own harness. It adds to the complexity and I believe I can do a better job than the guy in the factory.

If you plan to put the harness between the plates, you have limitations that will make the harness more fun (harder) to build. Specifically, your solder joints WITH heatshrink need to fit in the space allowed which is usually pretty small.

Twitchity has posted a photo here somewhere showing a flat solder joint custom made to fit in a tiny foldy quad.

I use 20awg wire to fit between the plates and 16awg wire to connect to the lipo on a mini. Think tiny and take your time. Routing wiring is a challenging aspect to a clean build and has performance ramifications on a 250.

For larger motors such as my 1450s, I run thicker wire, but for a mini every gram counts and the space in between plates is minimal.

I cut my motor leads to length. I sleeve my wires in color coordinated nylon paracord sleeving or heatshrink and I use signal wires from the ESCs to the flight controller that are color coordinated as well. All my colors match my LEDs and where I can also matches my rotors. I have been known to paint rotors to make the copter I want. I often paint the white LED backing strips black with a Sharpie and paint the entire strip with a little clear laquer so the Sharpie doesn't rub off. You won't find any off color capacitors on my ESCs either.

It isn't necessarry to do any of this. But to me it sure is fun.

 

[OPO]

The acro Naze32s are great boards and cheap. Skip the full version and save the money. If you want GPS look elsewhere.

I like building my own harness. It adds to the complexity and I believe I can do a better job than the guy in the factory.

If you plan to put the harness between the plates, you have limitations that will make the harness more fun (harder) to build. Specifically, your solder joints WITH heatshrink need to fit in the space allowed which is usually pretty small.

Twitchity has posted a photo here somewhere showing a flat solder joint custom made to fit in a tiny foldy quad.

I use 22awg wire to fit between the plates and 18awg wire to connect to the lipo on a mini. Think tiny and take your time. Routing wiring is a challenging aspect to a clean build and has performance ramifications on a 250.

For larger motors such as my 1450s, I run thicker wire, but for a mini every gram counts and the space in between plates is minimal.

I cut my motor leads to length. I sleeve my wires in color coordinated nylon paracord sleeving or heatshrink and I use signal wires from the ESCs to the flight controller that are color coordinated as well. All my colors match my LEDs and where I can also matches my rotors. I have been known to paint rotors to make the copter I want. I often paint the white LED backing strips black with a Sharpie and paint the entire strip with a little clear laquer so the Sharpie doesn't rub off. You won't find any off color capacitors on my ESCs either.

It isn't necessarry to do any of this. But to me it sure is fun.

The only problem I see with the harness is insulating the soldering points, I have seen someone to it like this;

so it's like 5 wires (Top 2, middle one and bottom two) you solder them together and use heatshrink on them and fill it with a glue gun.

Yeah, your builds are amazing, I hope my builds will become that nice in time.

 

[cranialrectosis]

Yeah, your builds are amazing, I hope my builds will become that nice in time.

Thank you. They are fun.


12awg wire is pretty freaking beefy for a 250. I wonder if it will fit between the plates. Consider 20awg between the plates and 16awg from the XT60 to the frame of the copter.

How you figure out the wiring harness is one of the most challenging aspects of building a mini. When it works, it is also one of the most rewarding because it is custom power for your copter.

Don't forget power for any LEDs and a voltage alarm on the flight controller.

 

[jhitesma]

The hardare on the OP board isn't much different than that on the Naze32. In fact I believe some people have customized baseflight or cleanflight to run on it. And I know Tau will run on it and is a fairly easy setup since Tau is a fork of OP.

As for the wiring...I get a laugh from Cranial saying he doesn't use PDB's after how much he hounded me to get going on helping Twitchity design one for his hex How quickly our opinions change in this hobby

You could always do something like I did on my Knuckle Tau or like Chad did on the quad he designed for Make magazine and do a power buss. I made mine from two strips of printed circuit material (You can pick it up at radio shack) but I've seen people just buy some 1/8" or 1/4" copper tube and hammer it into flat strips and use that. Chad used pieces cut off a copper reducer to make a ring in a ring separated with something insulating so all grounds attached to one and all positives attached to another. If done right it can give 90% of the convenience of a PDB along with 90% of the flexibility of a traditional harness. Best of both worlds in many ways.

Here's how I did it on my knuckle: http://forum.flitetest.com/showthre...FC-experiments&p=143505&viewfull=1#post143505

 

[joshuabardwell]

You definitely don't want the PDB on the bottom of the quad like you have it. One landing in wet grass and you will have shorts.

 

[cranialrectosis]

As for the wiring...I get a laugh from Cranial saying he doesn't use PDB's after how much he hounded me to get going on helping Twitchity design one for his hex How quickly our opinions change in this hobby

I only have the one I hounded you for. It's a beautiful thing and better than I can build.

The one from Hobby King was not.

 

[jhitesma]

I only have the one I hounded you for. It's a beautiful thing and better than I can build.

You can thank Twitchity for that - I merely advised as the took the reigns and ran off to the races before I realized we had a horse

The one from Hobby King was not.

Ah, ok. I agree generic PDB's don't really make a lot of sense to me. Though I was pleasantly surprised by the afro power board I used on my emax 250 build. It still wasn't as nice as a purpose build board but beat making a harness which I just despise

 

[OPO]

I actually like the look of a harness better than a PDB, I was not sure if I should have used the board or not...

But it´s good that I used it, this way I can make sure everything works and after that I can start making adjustments. I have placed an order for 20AWG, 16AWG and 12AWG.

The only thing that is sucks with the flightcontroller that I got came with a shitty harness Maybe I am just being a huge noob here but... are these the correct channel numbers?(See red numbers)