Charging and connectors compatibility (JST, JST-PH, XT60)

Coersum

Member
I am trying to figure the batteries to order for my FT Flyer, I have most of the parts figured out but trying to make sure everything can connect together.

Here is my shopping list:

On the way from ebay: GoolRC GC6 TX/RX

From Headsuphobby:
Emax CF2805 1300kv
Sky Power 10A ESC with Linear BEC
Power Up 9g AS181NG Analog Sub-Micro Servo
O-Rings for Prop Savers - Pack of Ten

From Hobbyking:
Linkage Stopper D2.1mm (10sets)(already have rods)
GWS Style Slowfly Propeller 10x4.7 Black (CCW) (5pcs)
GWS Style Slowfly Propeller 9x4.7 Black (CCW) (5pcs)
HobbyKing®™ Fire Retardant LiPoly Battery Bag (Flat) (230x140mm) (1pc)
HobbyKing™ Lipo Voltage Checker (2S~8S)
Accucell S60 AC Charger (US Plug)


I want to get a couple 460-500mah and one 1000mah battery, I found a 60gr 1000mah:

Turnigy nano-tech 1000mah 2S 25~50C Lipo Pack
It has an XT60 connector for discharge and JST-XH for balance which works since the Accucel charger has a XT60 to bullet adapter + balance plug.

But as far as using this battery with the ESC that only has a JST connector, I couldn't find anything. All I found was this "XT-60 to JST Charging Adapter (2pc)" but I believe that it is to charge a battery with jst connector to a charger with XT60 connector like this "7.4v 500mah 35C EZ Flite Lipo Battery"

Anyone know an adapter to use that XT60 connector 1000 mah battery with a JST connector ESC ? Maybe I am missing it and it's easy to find.. after a couple weeks researching things, I may be missing the obvious.

Thank you
PS: also if you see something really bad in my setup above, let me know, or if you know a place with light cheap and good batteries :D
 
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JimCR120

Got Lobstah?
Site Moderator
I'm a big fan of XT-60's. I think they're a quality connector. But I came to use them from the EC3's I used to use because of the LiPo batteries. My choices at the time were to buy slightly more expensive batteries with EC3's on them, less expensive batteries with no connector and solder my own, or Hobby King who was selling inexpensive LiPo's with XT-60's already on them. When I looked into them they were very comparable to the EC3's that I already liked. Switching would mean changing all the leads on my ESC's.

Now, years later I don't regret those choices but as I begin to use 2S LiPo's I'm faced with another time to decide if I want the little red JST's or XT-30's. I like the XT-30's but honestly if I'm going to get a better deal on LiPo's that have the JST connectors on them I will probably stick with that until there is a performance issue that raises its ugly head.
 

Coersum

Member
Thanks all for the input!

I would love to be able to have all my connectors the same as I am just starting and it would be the best time to start, but to be completely honest, I am very bad at soldering lol and I wouldn't feel safe charging/discharging batteries with my soldering job on them or esc's (at least for now)...I might do some more practicing soldering and see if I can get better at it.

In the meantime, would this JST Male Plug to XT60 Male Connector Adapter work ? I believe both esc and batteries have female ends right ?

PS: this is in part why my parts list has all connectors already soldered onto them (esc, motor, battery).
 

ElectriSean

Eternal Student
Mentor
Batteries (or any voltage source really) have female ends. ESC's have male ends. This is referring to the pins themselves, not the connector bodies.
 

Montiey

Master Tinkerer
Batteries (or any voltage source really) have female ends. ESC's have male ends. This is referring to the pins themselves, not the connector bodies.


Just remember- you can't short out a battery with a screwdriver. The other end is on the ESC.
 

mrf

Member
I started out with JST connectors as that's what my little 850mAh batteries came with from the shop. However over time I've moved to XT30 for my mighty mini projects, and XT60s for larger setups. Main reasons for choosing them are:

- They are rated for higher current draw
- They will stay connected for most crashes (which means you don't have to spend time looking for where your battery ejected to).
- They are very hard to put on backwards

Soldering them on is very easy - check youtube for videos. There's lugs at the back of the connector which you basically just pump full of solder until they're full. You then apply heat to the lug to re-melt the solder, and while its in a molten state, insert the end of the lead. Remove the heat and let the solder cool, and you should have a fairly solid joint.

Some tips for the conversion are
- Be sure not to cut both of your battery wires in one go as that'll create a short and lots of magic sparks and smoke.
- Remember that the battery is the female connector (someone mentioned it above, it's like a power point, you can't accidentally put something over it to short it out)
- Woodworking clamps make great helpers to hold the connector while you're apply solder to it
- Try and have the connector plugged into its mate when you're soldering it. This prevents the connector from warping while your pumping lots of heat through it to fill the lugs up with solder
- Heat shrink all of your joints to protect them from each other, and provide a bit of a retention strength

Hope that helps!
 
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