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Dat Rhino

Namactual

Well-known member
You certainly can combine the parts, but there is no way to easily remove the motor if you need to work on it or replace it.

The idea behind the separate parts:
1: Screw the motor to the mount.
2: Zip-Tie the mount between the mount plates.
3: Glue the assembly to the wing plates focusing the glue on the mount plates rather than the mount proper.
Now If you had to take the motor off for whatever reason, you would just cut the Zip-Ties, do what you need to do then Zip-Tie it back into place.

It would work either way though.
 

Namactual

Well-known member
No problem brother.
If someone wants to have a removable motor, they can just make one out of wood.

I'm packing the truck up now and headed to FF.
It must be nice...:cry:

Update:
Here is the maiden flight of the VFA-103 skin...
Actually, this is the second toss of the first battery. The first throw was a single slow pass during which I found out as soon as it left my hand the Elevon mixing had too much elevator bias and not enough aileron. It was still easy to fly, I just did not like the feel.

With the 75-80% throttle cap it seemed to fly about the same as the skinless Rhino which is much lighter. This is also running on 3s. I will do a 4s test run at some point.

Sorry about the commentary. I had a couple of spectators and I did not feel like editing the vid.
 

Namactual

Well-known member
The VFA-103 Jolly Rogers version 1 skins are now live.(y)
See the second post in this thread.

I changed the formatting a bit on the full sized prints.
There are (4) 32x22" sheets with a 30x20" border.
Sheets 01-03 are to be glued to foamboard and then cut to shape.
Sheet 04 is backside skins which are NOT glued to foamboard, but rather cut out and glued to the back of already cut parts.

The tiled prints are formatted to make the least amount of seams, not the least amount of sheets. You will have a lot of waste if you do not cut the shapes down before you glue them to foam. The Online Labels self adhesive paper makes the tiled prints a breeze if you are printing these yourself.

As always, if you have any questions just ask.
 

PsyBorg

Fly Angry
Mentor
Hey Nam. I got the special delivery at ffo. AMAZING!!!!!

Sadly the humidity took a toll on the pre skinned pre cut boards. I am in the process of flattening them so I can still do a static build. I may be able to rub the wrinkles out as well.

I do how ever at least have a few pics of one of the honor flights for you. Some have the Blue Angels some have the Rhinos. I hope they are clear enough after downsizing.

Angels 5.jpg

Angels 3.jpg

Angels 6.jpg
 

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Namactual

Well-known member
Sorry to hear about the kit, that sucks. I am glad you liked the skin though. Hopefully you can get the majority of the wrinkles out and built at least. We will just have to get you flying your very own Rhino next year.(y)

We have to give a big thank you to @kilroy07 as well. He did all of the work. All I did was paint some pixels on a digital canvas. Here I ask the guy for a set of prints and he goes off and hooks people up with pre skinned laser cut kits.(y)(y)(y)

That's the best thing about Flite Test. It's not the plans, speedbuild kits or entertainment, it's the people that it seems to pull into it's orbit.
 

kilroy07

Well-known member
That's the best thing about Flite Test. It's not the plans, speedbuild kits or entertainment, it's the people that it seems to pull into it's orbit.
Amen Brother.

@PsyBorg Someone just posted over in the FB fans group to use a hairdryer to un-warp foamboard, that might do the trick for your Rhino Kit.

He did all of the work.
On this point we're gonna argue! ;) Without your crazy awesome design and skins, I wouldn't have had anything to print/cut.
Besides it challenged me to learn a some new skills, I like challenges where I learn.
(Athough, now... I don't think I can build "just" a plain white bare foamboard airplane... so... "THANKS" for that!! :mad:) :LOL::ROFLMAO:
 

PsyBorg

Fly Angry
Mentor
I will try the dryer trick after the kit sits a day or two on the floor with a folding work table on it for weight.

The kit that was cut will be fine for a static model and I will save the spare skin for the actual build. Either waythere will be pics posted when each has been assembled.

I still cant get over the sqadron logo and every one I show LOVES it.
 

Namactual

Well-known member
I am using these guys here...
EMAX RSII 2306-2400kv @ Amazon

Battery 3s 1550mAh
1550mAh 3s Tattu @ Amazon

The ESC I am using currently on 3s
Lumenier 30A ESC @ FliteTest Store

External BEC
Hobbywing BEC @ Amazon

5x4x6 Props
RAYCorp 5040x6 @ Amazon

Up until the new motors I have been just running the EMAX RS 2205 2300kv Red Bottoms, which have been great on the lighter skinless builds. With the extra weight from the skins I wanted a little more power, but no too much to drain the battery in seconds. These RSII's are a perfect fit on 3s with the hex blades.
 

Namactual

Well-known member
One last thing I never did document was the elevon mixing bias.

Using the recommended control rod/horn placement, I set the Ailerons to 100%, and the Elevators to 66%. It will fly with anything really, but I found that bias just "feels" right.
 

Namactual

Well-known member
Another tip for you @PsyBorg and others who might build this...

When dealing with black parts, I use a black permanent marker to "paint" the white cross section before gluing.
Tip1.jpg
It is especially noticeable on the nose skin glue joints.
 

Namactual

Well-known member
Sorry, I forgot to upload the .stl files for the AIM9x's and Wingtip Missile Rails. I have attached them below.

There are both an Imperial and Metric version included in the file as well as a reference picture of the proper print orientation for each part.

I printed mine using Cura as the slicer and used a .6 nozzle. The settings I used are listed below.

All missile pieces were printed using a 2 pass wall thickness of 1.2mm as well a a 1.2mm top and bottom layer. These are also hollow so use zero infill. The Ultimaker had no issues printing these parts using these settings, but YMMV.

The Pylon I printed with the same settings, except I used support material and printed it solid. 100% infill. It is such a thin part making it hollow made it susceptible to warping and it really did not save much weight.

Let me know if you have any issues or questions.

Technically these could work on any aircraft as the rail is fairly simple. These are 1:20 scale to fit the Rhino, but you could scale them to match anything really.
 

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