As someone who has covered literally hundreds of model airplanes with tissue...
Don't coat the tissue with glue. That just adds massive amounts of completely unnecessary weight. Contrary to popular belief, not even dope is needed if you're going to fly in reasonably dry conditions. Weight is the enemy of performance.
Make the whole nose block assembly removable, not just the tiny thrust button up front. You want plenty of room to access the motor and room for it to fit back in as you wind it up. Also lets you have more precise adjustments as you shim in right and down thrust to set your right turning circle and trim away from stalls under power. Use an aluminum tube for the rear peg so you can slide a metal pin through that and then have someone hold it (better, put it in a fixture) while you stretch the motor out to wind it up.
Trim the glide by putting the CG about 40% of root wing chord back from the leading edge and then shimming the stab up or down to eliminate stalls or dives in glide. Never move the CG, and always verify it when changing rubber motors.
Some things worth getting to help this along: go to volareproducts.com and buy a 5:1 or 10:1 winder, a tube of Dow-33 rubber lube, and a small box of 1/8" Tan Super Sport rubber. The latter is by far the most important. The rubber included in most model kits these days is fit only for folding newspapers together. Tan SS is literally the best rubber ever produced in human history in terms of energy capacity.
Oh, trimming for power. Prior to trimming the glide, make a loop of rubber 3 times the length of the distance from the front hook to the rear peg. Attach the loop to something solid and wind in about 75 turns (in the same direction as you would wind the motor for flight). Bring the two ends of the loop together so that it grapvines into a shorter motor of 4 strands (equal to a doubled up loop). This rubber motor will now tension itself to the proper distance from hook to peg without bunching in one spot and shifting your CG. Load the motor aboard... Balance and trim the glide as said before. Get a wide right turn going in the glide using rudder trim. Oppose it slightly with an aileron tab on the right wing tip (left aileron deflection). Now start by cranking in about 100 turns. The model will probably pitch up into a stall. If it does, add a 1/32" shim to the top of the nose opening. If it stalls without any tendency to pull to the right, instead add a shim to the left side of said opening so that the prop points slightly to the left. Add more power. If the model pulls too hard to the right, reduce the right thrust shim (or add left thrust if you haven't added a right thrust shim). If it pitches straight up into a stall, add right thrust. And if it pitches into a stall and yaws to the right without recovering quickly, add downthrust. And on it goes until you've got it flying as long as you safely can in your field.
