So I am about 90% through my first build (mustang) and thought I would post some things that worked well form me:
- I used a PDF editor to copy each of the pieces to cut to 11x17 paper for most everything so I could print cheaper than printing poster size. A few of the pieces (fuselage, turtle deck, etc.) were too big for 11x7 so I put them in a custom sized PDF bigger than 11x17 and printed tiled. This approach minimizes the taping of tiled pieces together. Also, when your tiled piece is done separately it is easier that if there are multiple pieces/lines to line up.
- I used the "cut lines" option for printing an tiled pieces which allows you to accurately cut that side of tiled plan off right at where the plan stops.
- I used Scotch Restickable/Repositionable Glue Sticks to adhere the plans temporarily to the foam board (http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Acid-F...sr=8-2&keywords=scotch+restickable+glue+stick). This way you can easily remove and move if you need to and the plans are not glued to the board. Just use the stick lightly (one light pass) and let it dry a minute or to for a minute or two before putting paper on the board and there will be no residue. I also just apply the glue where the outer perimeter cut lines are for the piece I am working on...that's all that is typically needed to hold it securely while I cut.
- I used one of these Harbor Freights utility knives for most of the cutting (http://www.harborfreight.com/color-snap-blade-utility-knife-60828.html). I started with an 18mm knife but the smaller blades seem to slice better through the foam. The smaller blade was also better for cutting curves. These types of utility knives are great as you can easily break off the end and have a new sharp blade. You can also extend them to the right depth for score cuts or make them longer to do relief cuts at an excessive angle. (I also saw similar utility knives for 3 for a $1 at Dollar Tree)
- I used an Exacto knife for the very small cuts like the pop out rectangles for inserting tabs to joining pieces (http://www.amazon.com/X-Acto-XZ3601...8&qid=1438034335&sr=8-1&keywords=exacto+knife). It helps to put a spare piece of foam underneath the cut to allow the knife blade to fully penetrate the paper on the bottom side of the foam board.
- Walmart the long Ad Tech 10" glue sticks for a reasonable price (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Ad-tech-Multi-Temp-Standard-10-Glue-Sticks-24-ct/17404362).
- When cutting relief cuts on control surfaces or the leading edge of the wing, I folded the control surface over as done in the video and used a straightedge a few mm from the edge to guide the razor blade to get a nice straight cut vs. freehand.
- I used the $0.88 Walmart Ross foam board which worked well (very sturdy, paper stays on foam and does not de-laminate even when it gets wet), but is thicker than the DTFB by about 1mm (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Ross-20-x-30-White-Foam-Board/44640661). You really should edit the plans to compensate for this. For example, an A fold will end up 1mm taller. A B fold will end up 2mm wider if you don't. Same thing for any holes cutout for gluing pieces together, for the wings to insert into the fuselage, etc.
- For any curved poster board, roll the poster board first over a piece of 3/4 PVC or something round like that to get it to start forming in a curve, when you curve it when mounting the poster board it will help to prevent creases.
- When doing your cutouts, be sure to punch through any indicated holes for skewers as once the pieces are assembled it may be difficult to find the exact spot again as the plans are removed from the board.
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