Turning motors into fashion statements
I came across this thread while dealing with the identical issue with the Turnigy Park250. This motor was destined for my mini scout and mini speedster.
Some of the ideas here in this thread about heating/freezing seam like good ones, and the other offsite reference was a good one.
Here is a thread on RCG that also has a different method.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...p=100&highlight=turnigy+park+250#post31856342
One difference between the park300 and the park250 is that the Turnigy Park250 is such a cheap knockoff of the e-flite Park250 that the shaft only has one groove for the circlip. You are left hanging if you move the shaft with nowhere to retain the major motor pieces with the circlip. I do believe that the circlip may be redundant - without the circlip you may be able to pull the prop/bell housing off your motor when it has no juice running to it, but once the ESC activates you are pretty much not able to pull it off. Likewise, in flight, the electromotive forces are strong enough that the prop/bell housing doesn't just fling away from your plane.
I think. Someone can confirm this?
So, my first attempt at moving/removing the shaft ended up in this:
Key to Parts Map, above:
A: Jig I made to remove the circlip. These motors can be wiley little guys to hold still while getting that circlip off. I drilled a hole in the center of an approximately 3" x 3" piece of scrap wood. The drill size was close to the diameter of the circular motor shaft supports. I then band-sawed right down the middle, splitting the hole in 2. I made a couple of further cuts with my Dremel mini table saw, as seen in photo.
I hot-glued those two pieces down on another piece of scrap that is about 3/8" thick, just as a support base. Now the motor was more manageable to slip the circlip off with a pair of small needle-nose. Still a bit of a trick, maybe invest in circlip pliers from harbor freight. I have two more motors to practice on!
B: Broken end of shaft
C: Area from whence said broken piece originated. Also note: arrow points to one piece of a two-piece bell housing the motor magnets. This configuration is not normal, or recommended.
D: Part 2 of two-part bell housing rendered as fashion statement. Hoping magnetic field offers some kind of positive physiological effects.
Moral - the Park250 is manufactured pretty cheaply. That makes moving the shaft to take the prop adapter more difficult. But doable. It comes in
The Park300 looks like it is prepped for the prop adapter a little better, with the alternate circlip groove cut into the shaft. This motor comes as 25g, apples to oranges comparison (HK site is inconsistent in data)
1080kv 85W (prop?, voltage?) - 7.4v - 9050 prop - 3.8A - 215g Thrust
1380kv 77W (prop?, voltage?) - no other specific data
1600 KV 85W (prop?, voltage?) 7.4v - 8x4.3 prop - 8.5A - 355g Thrust
For reference, park250
1680 55W - 7.4v - 7035 Prop - 6.4A - 346g Thrust
2050 55w - 7.4v - 7035 Prop - 5.5A - 255g Thrust
2200 50W - no other specific data
Hope this info is helpful,
Poughkeepsie Pete
