Help! Power Pack C Questions

[Gr8folded]

Brand new to the forum and am just finishing my first FT plane. Never really installed or had to replace a propeller as usually do a lot of unpowered slope soaring, so these are complete newbie questions.

1) Are plastic spacers/washer needed to attach the 10 x 4.5 CCW to the Radial C motor? It seems as if the prop snuggly slides on past the threaded portion of the shaft, but runs into resistance where the threads stop. I don't want to force it further unless that is how you seat the prop snug up against the front of the motor.

2) Which nut should I use? The is a nylon lined lock nut or a spinner shaped nut with no nylon. I won't be using an additional spinner, is the spinner shaped nut safe with out the nylon lock liner?

3) Does the ESC have a way to program a safe feature so if the TX is turned on and the throttle happens to not be all the way down it will not immediately start the prop. Tested this on the Power Pack C with my old Spektrum DX6i and AR410 receiver and with the throttle stick at half way, the prop started shortly after I turned on my TX. Flew old park zone planes back in the day and they had a feature that required you to bottom out the throttle stick require to arm the motor.

4) I really enjoyed my building this first plane and ordered 2 more, one being the Simple Stick. Anyone fly this with the Power Pack C Power Pod?
Bonus Question: Do light coats of acrylic rattle can paint work on the new white foam in the kits (Krylon Fusion, Etc?)

Thanks for any help you all can provide!

 

[Foamforce]

1. Props come with a set of adapter bushings for various size motor shafts. You pick the smallest one that fits the shaft and then press for it into the back of the prop. I noticed on my FT C pack motors that it was a tight fit, just like you described. I held the bell housing on the motor with one hand while I twisted the prop on with the other.

2. I think you use one or the other. I’m guessing they include the regular nut if you’re using a spinner. Use the pointy one if you’re not.

3. That’s surprising. I thought all ESCs had that safety feature. I’ll try one is mine later.

4. I haven’t flown the Stick yet, but with regards to painting, if you’re using the Flite Test foam, you can paint it just like you said.

Good luck!

 

[Gr8folded]

1. Props come with a set of adapter bushings for various size motor shafts. You pick the smallest one that fits the shaft and then press for it into the back of the prop. I noticed on my FT C pack motors that it was a tight fit, just like you described. I held the bell housing on the motor with one hand while I twisted the prop on with the other.

2. I think you use one or the other. I’m guessing they include the regular nut if you’re using a spinner. Use the pointy one if you’re not.

3. That’s surprising. I thought all ESCs had that safety feature. I’ll try one is mine later.

4. I haven’t flown the Stick yet, but with regards to painting, if you’re using the Flite Test foam, you can paint it just like you said.

Good luck!

Thanks a bunch foamforce, appreciate it! I've got the proper bushing size, just wanted to make sure that it was correct to gently push the prop down until it was snugly seat against the face of the bell housing. The tight fit made me not want to force it and break the motor.

 

[Draftman1]

All of the ESC’s I ever have, wouldn’t totaly engage if the throttle was in the wrong position.

 

[vhandon]

Use the nylon lock washer if you are going to run the motor clockwise instead of counter-clockwise.

 

[Gr8folded]

Use the nylon lock washer if you are going to run the motor clockwise instead of counter-clockwise.

Thanks Vhandon. Makes sense adding the locking washer for more security on CW motors. This one spins CCW so I'll go with the spinner shaped nut.

I'll re-bind the plane and see if that does the trick on the ESC motor arming.

Real appreciate everyone's input.

Thanks!

 

[dap35]

Brand new to the forum and am just finishing my first FT plane. Never really installed or had to replace a propeller as usually do a lot of unpowered slope soaring, so these are complete newbie questions.

1) Are plastic spacers/washer needed to attach the 10 x 4.5 CCW to the Radial C motor? It seems as if the prop snuggly slides on past the threaded portion of the shaft, but runs into resistance where the threads stop. I don't want to force it further unless that is how you seat the prop snug up against the front of the motor.

2) Which nut should I use? The is a nylon lined lock nut or a spinner shaped nut with no nylon. I won't be using an additional spinner, is the spinner shaped nut safe with out the nylon lock liner?

3) Does the ESC have a way to program a safe feature so if the TX is turned on and the throttle happens to not be all the way down it will not immediately start the prop. Tested this on the Power Pack C with my old Spektrum DX6i and AR410 receiver and with the throttle stick at half way, the prop started shortly after I turned on my TX. Flew old park zone planes back in the day and they had a feature that required you to bottom out the throttle stick require to arm the motor.

4) I really enjoyed my building this first plane and ordered 2 more, one being the Simple Stick. Anyone fly this with the Power Pack C Power Pod?
Bonus Question: Do light coats of acrylic rattle can paint work on the new white foam in the kits (Krylon Fusion, Etc?)

Thanks for any help you all can provide!

The C-pak motor works great on the Simple Stick.

 

[Gr8folded]

The C-pak motor works great on the Simple Stick.

Thanks!
Simple Stick kit arrived today and plan to swap C pack between the Mustang and Simple Stick. Will the C pack 10x4.5 prop will work with the Simple Stick or should I down size?

I'm guessing with a little bit more power it might be a good idea to reinforce the wings with a wooden or carbon fiber wings spars.

 

[dap35]

Thanks!
Simple Stick kit arrived today and plan to swap C pack between the Mustang and Simple Stick. Will the C pack 10x4.5 prop will work with the Simple Stick or should I down size?

I'm guessing with a little bit more power it might be a good idea to reinforce the wings with a wooden or carbon fiber wings spars.

I have an APC 9x6 prop on mine, but it could be that is what I had on hand. I have reinforced my wing with 1/64" plywood over the center joint of the wing that also helps avoid rubber band dents. I also glued an inexpensive graphite arrow shaft in the nose of the wing. I have had this plane for at least 2 seasons, maybe longer.

 

[Gr8folded]

I have an APC 9x6 prop on mine, but it could be that is what I had on hand. I have reinforced my wing with 1/64" plywood over the center joint of the wing that also helps avoid rubber band dents. I also glued an inexpensive graphite arrow shaft in the nose of the wing. I have had this plane for at least 2 seasons, maybe longer.

Thanks Dap35. So if I understand you correctly, the arrow shaft is glued just back from the LE/nose fold line prior to folding over the wing?

 

[dap35]

I put mine in after the fold, tucked into the V of the nose. But either way should work.