Hurricane Wood Power Pod for 60" foam board planes


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This will hold everything, even servos at back. First one was too small.

The foam fuse will be taped to front and top edges of pod after it's painted and am hoping to bolt on the wings. Using some real nice looking hi-tech analog mighty mini MG BB servos

Pilot cockpit picture is my plan size and also have to have rear grip to pull battery hatch, would break the foam.

There's just a little more left, this will hold my lipos and the LIFE packs I built, good for 22mm and 28mm mounts.

Batteries and motor control are planning balance placement and MC will be underneath with hole at the 10" mark.

Center wing chord 12" and polyhedral wing tips like Hurricanes have.

There's some beautiful motors I've wound hpdlrk terminated wye, I want to run in this thing.
Lipos 7.5 oz LIFE 13oz motors 3 to 6 oz all to spin 12" props.

If you try my wind idea, circles are counterclockwise and wye here doubles wire current spec

Warbird Pod 604 level pic 1 cutout 20 cockpit grids battery MC 1-1.jpg


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Where to put hardware
I'm also building a storch but I don't like attaching pieces all over Separately and this pod idea is looking better all the time. Motor, battery, controller, servos all in the pod.
Easy magnetic battery hatch/cockpit.

Pod will be attached too firmly to allow even small movements affecting linkage

I might make a generic pod for a Morane Saulnier type, would have a midwing tube


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For anyone else might've had this throttle problem. I thought it was a bad controller.

Somewhere around 3/4 stick, motor rotates vibrates slowly odd shutdown.

Lucian from told me controller is trying to spin too fast. Changing timing didn't fix it.

Set transmitter wot, plug in controller, at 1st beep controller starts stick programming the upper throttle limit, immediately unplug controller. Done.

The 1st time was tricky and didn't work a few tries. Tried again 2 weeks later disregarding actual single beep, impossible to beat controller but waited for a louder longer more distinct 1st beep, then unplugged, it worked.

Now plug in again and test upper throttle limit, should be OK, no shutdown hysteresis.

It worked. For a few years I thought I had some bad motor controllers, Phoenix, Badass, and one ZTW confused by out of range command from homebuilt servo tester.

Now I'll reset and test those.

Another problem, loose connection because I used a mfrs soldered bullet lead, made me think I made mistake winding motor. Don't trust someone else's soldered joints. Not unless the gear is Really top shelf.


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Motor controller TO battery wire length

I called Lucian back because he's good about limits figures and here it's critical because high current high frequency switching increases a ringing in inductance, need more capacitance if wire gets to long with heavy loading.

Fortunately I buy 40 amp controllers for 5 amp becs but motor loading maximum 25 amps leaving lots of headroom.

Lucian said typically I could go total 24 inches and this low load would allow more.
Control leads were 2.5 inches, I just added 4 more. Life Battery packs I built have 6 or 8 inches.

So 24 inches allowable length.

Just something new I learned


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Hardware's installed 4008 x 8mm think stator multirotor iflight motor 13 turns of 20 awg giving 921 kv, current limit hpdlrk wye = 22 amps.

12v x 22a = 264 watts. Should give 3.5# thrust 65mph at least with LIFE packs
11.1v x 22a = 144 watts lipo

But the motor is 40 mm diameter stator x 8mm wye terminated may give more thrust for watts than mfrs delta motors.

The motor's 5oz weight might be offset with a foam warbird body

I'll try larger 13 n 14 inch props too

Cobra 40a esc, no throttle problems


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I'm looking for ways to seal DTF and that the paper peals too easy.

Just now 3.00 pm put gorilla glue on DTF, covered with wax paper. Looks like it reaches THRU dtf paper and bonds TO the foam. Let's just SEE!

NOW I did this to storch nose and all the edges like el stab and rudder stab. See pictures, so afterwards planning to just paint light coats oil based for sealing. Yes, haste MADE WASTE, I got el stab upside-down.

So at about 1 hour later, let's see IF gorilla glue improves the paper bond to the DTF.
Do you see how gorilla glue seems to penetrate paper, to creep a bond to paper....we hope, we'll see.

Partial quote from XA 3d thread

And also I've been looking into sealing foam board. Yesterday:
1: plasti dip, too many coats, made to be able
to be pealed off ...I don't know but they have white at home depot, how you gonna paint over black anyway?

2: pledge floor wax. Rec by Jetman

3: minwax ...oil or water based
Sponz I think rec this with a heavy brown paper application (over the dtf paper??? Or strip and apply???)

What's least trouble cheap and water proofs a good job???


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Gorilla glue expands (no water used) so I smooth it back down just like wax paper treatment with epoxy....'s 3.30pm

At 4.10 pm test pc in air conditioned room to allow gorilla glue maximum penetration to stick paper to foam


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When I'm sure the gorilla glue cures, my test is to pull at the DTF paper,

you ALL know how easy that pulls free. It's 4.20pm, not cured yet, I smoothed it again. Maybe 5pm


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here's 5.05pm appears cured

Let's tear off wax paper then DTF paper, and see


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OK didn't work

So this, may work just sealing edges

I thought of electric before Biden tried to force us to buy electric cars.

Interesting problem if we had motor large stator 18" (Tesla appears 10" stator) 2:1 ratio 2k rpms for 70mph...something I was working on few years ago. Like if you were satisfied not trying to achieve sporty performance, max speed 80mph. During testing rpms really increase need for power exponentially.


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So here's where my concern for foam integrity is meaningful, the rest of airplane is foam.

After searching, Peter Sponholz recommended WBPU ( water based poly urethane ) on DTF paper like on the inside of a fuselage, it will improve the paper-to-foam bond.

On the outside fuselage, instead of stripping paper, just put WBPU, it will make paper adhere to foam and models won't fall apart from de-lamination,


But I have to be sure I'm done, stuff doesn't stick after WBPU, paper has to be removed to glue something.

Now tricky part, you treat wing, even the hinges reinforced with hot glue, guessing all inside WBPU, hot glued, last thing, glue top of wing trailing edge to bottom to get glue to stick, gorilla glue could be used here and won't melt foam at last place to be glued.

Takes too much work to consider only a few dollars for foam is lost.

Is this the best way to insure paper won't de-laminate and models hold together???

IF this is true, I'm going to treat this storch inside and out


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Looking forward to the results of the WBPU experiment. Also, would you happen to have a link to where he suggest WBPU?


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Hi danskis, it's good to hear from you.

Minwax is Water Based Poly Urethane, WBPU, categorically. I'm starting to figure some of this stuff out.

One is the video alone, the other is the FliteTest article with the video.

There's probably 1000 forum members that already know ALL about this question I brought up, and how to build good foam models that last. Nobody seems to really cover ALL of the bases CLEARLY, like what about inside fuselage, building waterproofing wing and making the paper not de-laminate.

What's your best foamboard construction methods?

Could yall post a comprehensive answer?

Maybe there's some more comprehensive articles and or videos that many of you could post links to right here.
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The rectangle is gloss Behr $20/quart $57/gallon WBPU Home Depot topical application

Crescent moon shaped is WBPU under paper basically glued back down with WBPU

Other 2 Elmer's glue/water 50/50 seems thic, most interesting test is topical application, could you build it and apply topically on interior then later paint seal or your choice

<<<< Dry tear away test on everything >>>>

Let's see how many volts!

Hi Peter Sponholz, ... Leonard

Afterwards Elmer's White Glue AND WPBU with craft masking paper.
We're just gluing the wet brown paper to the bare foam.

I really think that original DTF paper is much stronger than this thin craft masking paper.

In the roofing area there's big $15 paper feels like 3x thickness of small rolls Walmart and Home Depot small roll listed as 54 mill


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Rectangle WBPU topical maybe not thru n thru soaked, but worthless. No sticking at all

Dtf paper pealed n stuck, a little better

White Elmer's glue 50/50 on top, worthless

White Elmer's picked up n glued paper, seems x3 adhesion

Nothing paper to foam is good unless you pick up paper, put glue and press fit paper back onto foam.

I remember a little about Ross foamboard Walmart paper stuck much much better

Bought 4 more sheets, we'll see building and hinge quality on warbird fuselage for wooden pod

Now... if we would share and combine knowledge we have, then it would result in much more progress

Sharing what you know is free.


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I heard that these things in model, so I painted to seal, saw where got carried away, paper did get loose some spots, i spread open poured Elmer's glue.

Took whole Adams sheet flipped and put Elmer's on outside side of paper, planning this'll be the inside of fuselage building

The other test method simply peal paper up halfway, put Elmer's then pull up and glue other half

I think this may be a very good method to keep things connected, but, also paint or seal with something too

Going to pull up and re-glue with Elmer's mixing with Adams glue...felt seemed 3x as strong as stock

Poked holes n flattened

Next peal up glue paper same side down 3x strength


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Two foam projects, wooden warbird power pod and Storch. First time using these baby carriage wheels ( look for these discarded, 8 wheels 1/4" axles ) at just 1 oz each. Little more to finish, using eflite apprentice wing.

The 28 oz is with lipos, other 33.4 oz LIFE pack

Going to make a modular landing gear replacement just mark install same with twisted on copper wire. Make 4 holes 4 inches apart twist on copper wire...or use twist ties...

Sanded axles wheels spin freely, just gluing a wood washer on to hold wheels

Fiberglass reinforced gear not just epoxy, won't crack loose, and that light cheap 2.7mm wood from home depot is great. Cuts good with #11 exacto blades


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Batch processing and modular building:

These firewalls saw cut out of hard 5 laminate 1/4" Plywood from Hobby Lobby can be drilled like Swiss cheese and hold up.

Figured 3 degrees Down and Right, Offset 1/8" both ways,0 depth upper Right, 10 and 4 o'clock depths 2.2/16ths and low 7 o'clock corner 3.1/16ths depth. I really need to see how this flies but I don't like too much compensation anyway.

When I needed another i decided to make 4 of them. The holes are close but fit x mounts 22mm and 28mm. 2 and 5/8" square seems a very good size.

That landing gear another easy build worth copying, putting holes 4" apart keeping square pattern, break one, it's attached with 21ga copper wire twisted. Gonna glue on some Flintstone style wooden washer keepers.

This is nice, look for discarded baby carriages, you get 8 free durable wheels that only weigh 1oz each.

Now what's troubling me is having to attach gear radio controller servos. I want to make a storch-like wooden power pod.

Well you know I found some really nice 2.7mm Plywood so...yall get some n make something with it.

Hi yall
Professor Fate
"Push tha button, Max"

Guess I painted too thick a coat. Look like it'll hold together a good while?


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This wooden power pod is done coming in at 29.55 oz with everything.

I've sure underestimated power needed to fly.
Went out with storch and later switched motor to larger 900kv motor to get around 4# thrust with a 12 inch prop.

So this will need a stronger motor too.
900kv good for 40 amps

This motor is only good for bursts pulling 4# because it pulls 40amps at 7800 rpms. Only needs 4# burst to get it in the air without stalling. Guessing after that 2 - 3# cruise. 2# only uses 120 watts on 3s


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