I.A.R 80 build, with plans

[leaded50]

Its a few warbirds from WW2 who differs from others, with beautiful lines propotional with their work. I.A.R. 80 is one of theese. Because tank was mounted between engine and cockpit... it got its sleek fuselage and powerful "long hood". As a fighter,it wasnt a superb one, aka approx 15-20 mph slower than the ME 109.
Romanian enginebuilding wasnt quite up to date (there too) but they had some god wins in fights. Its prototype first flew in 1938, and was produced in 250 ex.

This time i will try "go slow", and made also detailed plans of each part in the build thread. By use of Adobe Acrobat Reader set in given propotions you will get exact parts as i use building. Its a lovely bird....and one of the only plane, it seem they didnt care much on camo.... sharp yellow nose, bands , wingtips...

 

[leaded50]

here is the 3Ddrawing im using to build this plane. A few things aint changed yet on this drawings to fit 5mm foamboard, but it will come by it self in build, and related parts. (resize in AAR to ( 440% size) and the plane will be 800mm wingspan, 605mm long, aka a "mini - style" plane

 

[Ketchup]

That plane does look beautiful!

 

[leaded50]

WING: (resize in AAR to 170% size) glue in the spar (in doble height) remove the necessary paper of top-skin, make "V" shaped cut in where noted, but NOT through, keep paper under, UNdamaged.

Then you are stuck with this at picture: Make one more, turned around, to get correct profile (top and under when put together.)

 

[leaded50]

when made both wing halfs, find a table edge, and do same thing as shown in many of FT ´s videos on Master-builds. Make a smooth curb the first 60mm from the "V" cut.

2.
Glue together the two wing halves, only at the bottom part where spar are. And if smart, use the tip from FT, put on a piece of packingtape .

 

[leaded50]

That plane does look beautiful!

I know!! been on perhaps buildlist a long time here,

 

[leaded50]

if youre followed how FT make a "Masterbuild wing, by glued in spars, and reinforcement angled brace (of plywood or similar), careful more and more bending of overparskint to under for compressing the foam in the "V" cut, to make a bit rounded leaded edge of wing. Then glued the top and under skin together. And make a minor cut in middle, approx 3mm wide from first 1/3 from rear, to front, and pressed down in middle till glue is dry.... you will something smiliar as the wing at picture. It dont have a high dihedral angle. Tips are approx 25- 28mm higher than at middle.

 

[Rhaps]

Really cool plane but the nose is quite short. Getting GC right might be difficult

 

[leaded50]

Really cool plane but the nose is quite short. Getting GC right might be difficult

in fact, not so short. The painting at start here lies some.

 

[Rhaps]

I stand corrected, from blueprints it's not that different from for eample FW-190.

 

[leaded50]

I stand corrected, from blueprints it's not that different from for eample FW-190.

its like adds on US cars at the 40-50´s painted, all look longer and lower than they were. Eg on this picture, its not looks as exaggerated.

 

[leaded50]

Internals. Still in 170% zoom in Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

[leaded50]

then together it will look as this. Be shure, measure correct to get the internals straight! I got mine at first, 5mm bowed sideways, and needed rework a little on connection on former B to the batterybox.

cut off bottom part on former B, + to rear at main fuselage spar. (keep it for later use on belly skin.

 

[leaded50]

Im not gonna make it with FT interchangable powerpod, plans have possibility for working it with ordinary FT power pod though

 

[leaded50]

here is working with the rear skins... belly part is on, top rear skin soon. I decided use some 3mm depron i had for the top, its softness is ok here. In plans i recommend cardboard.
I also decided put elevator servo under the cockpit, but if want it further back, mount before top skin.

 

[leaded50]

Rear skins: (zoom to 170% in Adobe Acrobat Reader)

 

[leaded50]

here its even close too before cowling are ready, one "ring" more missing.
Hole frontpart is a single cylinder. Cowl is one turn with foamboard outside (i used the depron, need get reed of it..) and sanding on edge of depron against the cowl ring in front there, and at rear of depron (sanded down to 0) its not put any glue on the top, where hatch is. And that needs cut out first of the cyindrical front part. Then hatch will slide under the rear cowl ring, and keet in place, or just need one magnet at rear.


with hatch closed:

hatch slided back, open. :

 

[leaded50]

Front skin, cowl parts and tail stabilizer: still use zoom to 170% at Adobe Acrobat Reader for size.

 

[leaded50]

 

[leaded50]

up in one of last picturepost i make a note that " sanding on edge of depron against the cowl ring in front there, and at rear of depron (sanded down to 0) "
Reason for that is, if see on the profiledrawing here, its a curbed shape all around the cowl, not just the front.. and its not flat!. If sands fore and aft it will give similaritys of how it is on the plane.
Then you get a sanded paperedge, and foam. When spraypaint on that you get problems!
At the thread : https://forum.flitetest.com/index.php?threads/my-way-of-scratchbuilding-from-ground-up.65375/page-3 , last post, i make a note on such. Use woodglue, smear over and let dry, then foam and paper spraypainting will not be any problem, and will give a uniform even gradually shape.
Yes, its more work, but the 5min extra, and some hours drying is worth it, to get a even nicer plane.

the "squares" at rear of cowl, i did just used a standard ballpen, and drawed a bit hard the lines. It will depress the foam (paper is sanded away here anyway) and make the ridges, to give the effect of this parts. Just be careful to not do it as hard so tear the foam of. Start from rear at thinnest edge, and go forward to thicker foam.

PS! at this plane, remember no glue in center on top...inside or on hatch. The hatch shall have a possibillity to be gliding forward under the cowl part.
The extra layer with foamboard here, will also help on CG, to get some weight a touch more forward, a thing some of the warbirds eg. have problem with, they get to tailheavy.