foamboardflyer
Active member
I think your right, this is where the line is.
Mirage 2000 mk2, 64mm edf jet
- Thread starter Flitedesign 3d
- Start date
Flitedesign 3d
Elite member
Green means reference/aligment line, dashed means its on the opposite side. That particular line is where the wing meets the gap piece that connects the wing to the fuselage.
Baron VonHelton
Elite member
foamboardflyer
Active member
Baron VonHelton
Elite member
You don't remember "Reading Rainbow" with Levar Burton ( Lt Jordy LA Forge in Star Trek the Next Generation)???
foamboardflyer
Active member
I’ve only seen the first three OG Star Trek movies and got extremely bored. Rather be flying or building rc planes.You don't remember "Reading Rainbow" with Levar Burton ( Lt Jordy LA Forge in Star Trek the Next Generation)???
dap35
Elite member
So sad.... Reading Rainbow is a great treasure... .you should go back and watch some of these.I’ve only seen the first three OG Star Trek movies and got extremely bored. Rather be flying or building rc planes.
dap35
Elite member
OK, I'm a bit confused on the fwd fuselage section. This section with the diagonal cuts doesn't make sense to me. Does it wrap underneath? Where do the diagonal pieces go? If this is rounded underneath, shouldn't there be a former on that side as well?
The top piece seems to make sense to me, but his other part seems like it should have been cut separately .
Pictures or other clarification greatly appreciated.
The top piece seems to make sense to me, but his other part seems like it should have been cut separately .
Pictures or other clarification greatly appreciated.
Flitedesign 3d
Elite member
Seems like you have the main floor peace the wrong way around. The skin piece attached to it that you are asking about is the bottom skin. The pink lines in the gap edges are bewel lines.
That is the top piece indeed, it slots to the main intake/fuselage pieces I1-I3
dap35
Elite member
Finally figured it out. This needs the paper removed on one side and curled along the length - almost like a turtle deck.
I also built one in black foamboard that I found locally. The foamboard is probably a bit heavier but I like it because it's possible to peel the paper off of it (which isn't always the case with white foam board in my experience). I haven't flown it yet but I plan to do so soon.
@Flitedesign 3d & @Captain Jay : Big thanks for this design & plans; the build is not easy but the end result is very nice indeed. Congrats.
I took some pictures and also had some notes during the build:
I plan to fly it with an FMS 64mm 3900kV on a 2200 mAh 4S on an 80 amp ESC (i.e. a tiny bit irresponsibly since the fan unit is built for 3S, so we'll see how long that lasts). Total flying weight will be 800g, which could be too heavy.
@Flitedesign 3d & @Captain Jay : Big thanks for this design & plans; the build is not easy but the end result is very nice indeed. Congrats.
I took some pictures and also had some notes during the build:
- all the curved pieces need the inside paper of the foamboard removed. After removing the foamboard, it is easiest if you can bend the foamboard around something hard & round (e.g. a broomstick). Then use lots of painter's tape.
- When folding the wing, add extra reinforcements to the wing leading edge. Do it while the foamboard is still flat, before folding it. Otherwise, you risk having a tear in the leading edge like me. I think this could be fixed on the plans by having a circular relief cutout in the square concave corner.
- when building the nose section, the first piece that is bent is the belly of the plane. Make sure you insert the supports correctly (NOT like in the pictures a few posts above this one; refer to my first pic instead)
- I think it may be better to glue the nose assembly onto the wing assembly only after having installed the full fuselage (last part being I2) on top of the wing. It was hard for me to fit I2 and the intakes because I probably pushed the nose assembly a few millimeters too far back.
- when building the exhaust tube, be absolutely certain that the two slots for the tail fin align. If the fit isn't perfect, fix it later by enlarging the slots before gluing in the tail fin. Attention: the seams on both parts of the tube don't align! (see picture)
Suggestion for the plans: It could be great to have some sort of notches in both parts to help with the alignment. - I 3D printed a canopy holder and used the templates from the plan to cut pieces from a PET bottle. I needed this because the battery I intend to use needs more vertical space. I have shared the STL in case anyone wants it. It could use some further refinement so if anyone can do better: please share your design (PS: to properly fit my design, you 'll have to cut a bit of foam where the canopy is resting on the fuselage)
- I used mainly hot glue but also some foam safe CA. The CA is especially handy for the assembly of the fuselage where a paper lip must overlap another shape
- At the end of the exhaust tube, I made a foamboard ring between the exhaust tube and the fuselage.
- Center your servo's before mounting them. And use a decent servo tester and not a botched one like I did.
- If you want to use the intake lip of your EDF unit (like I did), you'll have to cut a slot in the wing as well as in the top fuselage (see picture).
I plan to fly it with an FMS 64mm 3900kV on a 2200 mAh 4S on an 80 amp ESC (i.e. a tiny bit irresponsibly since the fan unit is built for 3S, so we'll see how long that lasts). Total flying weight will be 800g, which could be too heavy.
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Flitedesign 3d
Elite member
Thank you for the pictures and for taking the time to write these detailed notes, you had a lot of good points there. I hope you enjoyed the build. I think 800 g is still acceptable weight, only hand launching might get a bit trickier. Good luck on the maiden, I hope to see a videoI also built one in black foamboard that I found locally. The foamboard is probably a bit heavier but I like it because it's possible to peel the paper off of it (which isn't always the case with white foam board in my experience). I haven't flown it yet but I plan to do so soon.
@Flitedesign 3d & @Captain Jay : Big thanks for this design & plans; the build is not easy but the end result is very nice indeed. Congrats.
I took some pictures and also had some notes during the build:
- all the curved pieces need the inside paper of the foamboard removed. After removing the foamboard, it is easiest if you can bend the foamboard around something hard & round (e.g. a broomstick). Then use lots of painter's tape.
- When folding the wing, add extra reinforcements to the wing leading edge. Do it while the foamboard is still flat, before folding it. Otherwise, you risk having a tear in the leading edge like me. I think this could be fixed on the plans by having a circular relief cutout in the square concave corner.
- when building the nose section, the first piece that is bent is the belly of the plane. Make sure you insert the supports correctly (NOT like in the pictures a few posts above this one; refer to my first pic instead)
- I think it may be better to glue the nose assembly onto the wing assembly only after having installed the full fuselage (last part being I2) on top of the wing. It was hard for me to fit I2 and the intakes because I probably pushed the nose assembly a few millimeters too far back.
- when building the exhaust tube, be absolutely certain that the two slots for the tail fin align. If the fit isn't perfect, fix it later by enlarging the slots before gluing in the tail fin. Attention: the seams on both parts of the tube don't align! (see picture)
Suggestion for the plans: It could be great to have some sort of notches in both parts to help with the alignment.- I 3D printed a canopy holder and used the templates from the plan to cut pieces from a PET bottle. I needed this because the battery I intend to use needs more vertical space. I have shared the STL in case anyone wants it. It could use some further refinement so if anyone can do better: please share your design
- I used mainly hot glue but also some foam safe CA. The CA is especially handy for the assembly of the fuselage where a paper lip must overlap another shape
- At the end of the exhaust tube, I made a foamboard ring between the exhaust tube and the fuselage.
- Center your servo's before mounting them. And use a decent servo tester and not a botched one like I did.
- If you want to use the intake lip of your EDF unit (like I did), you'll have to cut a slot in the wing as well as in the top fuselage (see picture).
I plan to fly it with an FMS 64mm 3900kV on a 2200 mAh 4S on an 80 amp ESC (i.e. a tiny bit irresponsibly since the fan unit is built for 3S, so we'll see how long that lasts). Total flying weight will be 800g, which could be too heavy.
Thank you for the pictures and for taking the time to write these detailed notes, you had a lot of good points there. I hope you enjoyed the build. I think 800 g is still acceptable weight, only hand launching might get a bit trickier. Good luck on the maiden, I hope to see a video
Tried a first flight with the CG at roughly 14,5cm from the intakes.
Straight line flying went fine but she was definitely very very nose heavy since she wasn't able to bank & yank through the first 180° turn. Long story short: I now have to rebuild the nose section and will have to re-maiden it. This time with with some extra lead in the butt to get the CG somewhere between 16 or 17 cm.
