Monster sized Fock-Wulf FW-42

rockyboy

Skill Collector
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Thanks Psyborg - I was overthinking things as usual :)

I cut the fuselage free this morning. Dang thats big.
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I started cutting the canard pieces next.
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But in the middle of my third cut my hot wire stopped working. Fuse is fine breaker didn't pop - need to get out the multimeter and poke around to see what happened.
 

rockyboy

Skill Collector
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As I was looking at my hotwire in frustration, I spotted this wing set on my shelf - picked them up at a swap meet for $2 :)

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Each one is 18" long - a perfect match for the length of the canards. They are tapered with a straight leading edge instead of a tapered leading edge and straight back edge like the FW-42's prototype.

Thinking I might either just get over the lack of scale alignment. Or make a mounting wedge and trim off some of the control surface... actually I like that idea.

Canards solved! Just need to do the work now :applause:
 
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rockyboy

Skill Collector
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While I've been distracted for a couple weeks on other projects (almost done with the balsa framing on the mini tele) and fun (more Tiny Whoop racing), this project keeps percolating in the back of my mind. And after discussion of ideas with Mason on a long drive up to the AMA expo this weekend, I've got updates to the internal structure plan and some new energy to get back onto this project. :applause:

First the canard. It keeps bugging me how using those balsa wings as canards just doesn't match the scale outline enough. And I still haven't got my longer hot-wire working via the transformer power supply. But after a quick experiment with just plugging in a 3s 2200 mah lipo directly to the wire, I'm cutting fine again! So I am going to go back to hot wire cut canard panels with fiberglass arrow shaft spars up front.

For the fuselage internal structure, I'm going to cut plywood interior side walls and floor with some lightning holes and a little bit of cross bracing. Glued together and to the foam body with Great Stuff expanding foam insulation. It seems the simplest path to good structural integrity down the fuselage length. Not the lightest solution, but still having a high chance of success at the primary job of not letting the fuselage fold in half when carried or landed for the first time.

On the wings, I'm going away from the two 48" wing panels mounted to the fuselage sides. Instead there will be a center wing section permanently installed through the fuselage that is long enough to contain both the landing gear and the engine nacelles. Then two smaller wing tip panels with ailerons will complete the full 100". I still need to do some measuring, and a quick mock up to make sure I can load it into my car this way. But this greatly simplifies the spars and bracing concerns at the fuselage - I can now do plywood I beam or T beam spars that stay in place. It also really cleans up the wiring and field setup - just add battery at the field and connect the ailerons instead of all the esc and gear connections too.

So with the new plan and some renewed energy, I'm entering the FW-42 into the March Madness challenge to finish up a stalled project in the month of March. With some focus, I should be able to get her maiden ready by the end of the month. But that also means I need to figure out and source the power plants in time... so maybe that's more like April... but hey - journey of a thousand miles starts with one step, right? :)
 
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thenated0g

Drinker of coffee, Maker of things
Mentor
i have been hot cutting for a year or two now and i still just power it straight off of either a 2-4s lipo or straight off of a 12v power supply. I really do need to get some kind of adjustable power supply, but straight off the lipo totally works. I have tried making my own power supply with a dimmer switch using a couple different transformers, even tried using my old HO train controller. Just not as happy with the setup as straight power.
 

rockyboy

Skill Collector
Mentor
Thanks for the confirmation that what I'm doing is not (likely) to cause my lipo to burst into flames, wrecking my workshop, attached house, and marriage in one giant cloud of foul spelling flames. :p
 

thenated0g

Drinker of coffee, Maker of things
Mentor
Thanks for the confirmation that what I'm doing is not (likely) to cause my lipo to burst into flames, wrecking my workshop, attached house, and marriage in one giant cloud of foul spelling flames. :p

nah, its actually a very low amp draw. I have xt60's on all my connections so its very easy to put a rc amp meter in between. I think on 4s i am drawing less tha 4amps and on my big 4000mah pack thats a run time of like an hour straight usage. If your worried about it put a lipo alarm on the balance.

fyi the 4 amps is with about a 50-60" section being heated up of steel fishing wire when i was doing one side of my 90" wing. Each wire type and length should be a little different. On andrew newton's channel (where i learned from) he is now using an adjustable power supply and i think he sets it around 14-16v and 4 amps, so i think this is not going to go much higher unless your doing some crazy long cut.
 

FoamyDM

Building Fool-Flying Noob
Moderator
FTF-March Madness ENTRY 3

BTW - I'm glad to have this project as part of the FTFMM '18 Challenge.

I hope you use those wings as canards. (and paint the whole craft to match! :p ) I can't wait to see how it turns out.

And thank you for being the first non-me entry.
 
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rockyboy

Skill Collector
Mentor
First time trying to hot wire an airfoil since FF16. Going to need some more practice before I can get something worth using I think.
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rockyboy

Skill Collector
Mentor
First time trying to hot wire an airfoil since FF16. Going to need some more practice before I can get something worth using I think.

The weight I used in this pull was way too much - and when I did the second one I used a quart can instead of a gallon and I think it was still too much based on the uneven cut. The other thing that might be a problem is if my bow is too loose - will try next time with more tension and a large enough piece of foam that I can anchor it to the table some other way than with a weight from the top.

I think I'm also experiencing a bit much on the heat - but this is the longer wire than my dimmable power unit won't run so I'm just plugging in a 3s lipo directly for the moment.

View attachment 103584

Yep - it's going to be big. :)

In this picture you can see the waviness in the airfoil that I need to deal with before having a usable piece. But I'm excited to figure out this new skill!

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wilmracer

I build things that fly (sometimes)
Mentor
Not bad for being so out of practice :p

You might add a skewer to on the centerline of each airfoil template to act like a shelf. You can rest your bow on that and get everything lined up before starting the cut.
 

Fluburtur

Cardboard Boy
My templates have a stick sticking out of both ends, this way you can rest the bow on it and the wire won't fall down if you finish one end first. You have to sand the leading edge a bit but it is well worth it.
 

rockyboy

Skill Collector
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That's going to take a big hole. Luckily it's a big plane :)

I'll post pictures of much better looking canard pieces underway later.

Dealing with AMA/FAA drama tonight. :mad:
 

PsyBorg

Wake up! Time to fly!
Two FPV gun turrets front and rear that will be connected to a camera switch operated by head tracking, a VTX, a PDB, an 8 channel receiver and a digital 3 camera switch. A third camera will be in the cockpit with OSD from the pdb and will also tilt down to act as a bomb sight with an 8x telephoto lens for extra distance and accuracy.

The plan is having a two operator two radio system. One for the pilot and one for the bombardier who will have (hopefully) control of the rudder system thru the trainer port for steering the plane while the pilot holds speed and altitude for the bomb drop like a real bomber of that era if all works out.