Need help/advice with rotor

[Smurgen]

Hi all.

I'm building the FT Sea Duck. I bought the Power Pack C Twin radial v.2 to power it. Had everything working with diff thrust and had to put my build away to make room for family. When I came back to it one of my rotors wouldn't move. When I throttle up it starts beeping like it just got power.

I swapped sides with the motor and ESC and it seemed to be a bad ESC. I ordered a replacement and got it all hooked up again. Everything was working until I went to reverse the spin by swapping 2 of the leads. The motor is only beeping again when it gets throttle.

Sound familiar to anyone? And how do I fix it?

Thanks!

 

[Smurgen]

I have a video of what it's doing uploaded.

 

[luvmy40]

Have you tried running each motor/ESC with a servo tester? I'm leaning toward something weird with the TX set up or the RX. I have no idea what so ever it might be, but it effects both motor/escs, so it's not likely they're all bad.

 

[quorneng]

I tend to agree withluvmy40.
The transmitter throttle is activating both motors but then the left hand ESC begins its "arming" sequence.
Do both the ESC go through their arming sequence independently when you first connect the battery?
It is as if the differential thrust on the transmitter is interfering with the ESC's "arming".
It is vital that both ESCs see an absolute minimum throttle signal when they are arming. It is a safety feature built into nearly all ESCs
If any throttle differential is present (rudder trim) when the battery is connected one ESC will see a slightly open throttle.
Just a thought.
Are you sure the ESC's are adequate for those motors?

 

[Foamforce]

I’m going to guess a bad solder joint in your battery Y connector going to your right motor.

Every time you throttle up, it sounds like your right ESC re-initializes. That might be because it browns out as soon as it tries turning the motor which could be due to a very bad power connection. Since it’s only on one side and since you already swapped the ESC, that makes me think it’s the Y. Try reversing the battery Y connector and see if the problem moves to the other side.

This is a best guess and probably wing. If that fails, then I definitely agree with others that you should test your motor and ESCs independently with a servo tester. Do you know how to do that?

 

[Smurgen]

Have you tried running each motor/ESC with a servo tester? I'm leaning toward something weird with the TX set up or the RX. I have no idea what so ever it might be, but it effects both motor/escs, so it's not likely they're all bad.

I have not. I'll look for instructions on how.

 

[Foamforce]

I have not. I'll look for instructions on how.

Plug the signal wire from the ESC into the output side of the servo tester. Make sure to turn the servo tester all the way down (counter clockwise). Then plug the ESC battery connector to the battery.

That’s all you need to do, so definitely don’t plug the battery balance lead to the input side of the tester like you do when testing servos because that will let the magic smoke out.

 

[Smurgen]

Set

Plug the signal wire from the ESC into the output side of the servo tester. Make sure to turn the servo tester all the way down (counter clockwise). Then plug the ESC battery connector to the battery.

That’s all you need to do, so definitely don’t plug the battery balance lead to the input side of the tester like you do when testing servos because that will let the magic smoke out.

Set this up and the rotor won't spin with 2 ESCs. I hooked up the working rotor and it spins normally. Bad rotor out of the Power Pack.

Thanks for the help.