Noob post 2


New member
Good afternoon all!

I’m sure this is a bigger thread, but I joined yesterday and I’m still finding my way around. I promise to do better with my next post.

I posted about buying a FT Tutor kit to build with my 12 year old. The response was fantastic. Thank you for help figuring out receivers to pair with the Taranis Qx7 we have (but don’t understand. Mad props to theflyingbritt).

Final noob question (I hope). Which battery charger and line would you purchase to support the FT Tutor.

It is recommended to buy a 1300 mAh 3s or 4s

If you had it to do over (first model build, first flying), which charger and battery would you buy in order to be able to buy a few batteries, increase flight times where possible, and have a reliable charging system?

Again, sorry for the double noob post. I promise to do a better job searching next round.



Participation Award Recipient
A charger isn't going to increase the flight times on your batteries, but they can effect how long the battery lasts.

I would get a smart charger that also has a storage setting (batteries last longer when stored at an appropriate level).

I have a C240 charger [example], which has worked fairly well for me.

from the FT store, something like this:
Flite Test M8 DC Battery Charger Workstation which also needs something like this: Power Supply - 400w/16.7a/24v - For M8 & ISDT Chargers (as it needs power input).


Legendary member
I have 2 chargers, both are iMax B6 80 watt models that you can run off mains or a 12 volt battery (ideal for charging at the flying venue). As most of them on the market are clones of the original B6, you can pick them up quite cheaply. They work for 1s all the way up to 6s Lipo batteries and you can use the store option, to put your Lipo's into storage mode when not using them.
There are options to charging: Lipo, Liion, LiFe, NiMh, NiCd and lead acid batteries too.


As for Lipo choice that's a mine field obviously your given specifications with a model ie 3s or 4s which denotes the number of cells, then the second number is the current output in mAh.
For an example: The specification may state a 3s 1300 mAh battery.
The 3s denotes the voltage supply each cell can provide, a working of a typical Lipo cell voltage is between 3.2 and 4.2 volts. Below 3.2 volts it can irreparably damage the cell, above 4.2 it can burst into flame.
Cell number / Voltage / Full charge voltage
1s / 3.7v / 4.2v
2s / 7.4v / 8.4v
3s / 11.1v / 12.6v
4s / 14.8v / 16.8v
The list goes on, but you get the idea.
The current or mAh (milliamps per hour) denotes how much current the battery can supply. The more you use the throttle the quicker you use up your current allocation. The BEC (battery elimination circuit) in your ESC (electronic speed controller), limits your minimum current and you generally will lose power to your motor before reaching the lower threshold of the lipo cell.

(The C rating we can discuss again at a later date. But basically the C rating or capacity of energy the battery can safely discharge, has a value. The higher the value the more energy that battery can deliver. You will find higher rated C values command higher battery costs too.)

So if you want to use a 4s 1300mAh instead of a 3s 1300mAh, you increase the power to the motor by increasing the voltage. If your Just starting off with a trainer you don't need the extra power of a 4s, they are also more expensive to buy than the 3s battery too and because of the extra cell add more weight.

I mentioned earlier its a mine field, that's because having decided what size you want/need, the tricky bit comes. Which make do you buy, there are lots out there to choose from. Some are very expensive, but reliable and efficient others are utter :poop: and useless. I go for mid price range myself, reliable but not top of the range.
I would take recommendations from members of the forum on which makes to buy.
I would also read up on the safe use of Lipo batteries, as they can be very dangerous if not used in a safe manner.
Finally you need to study the impact of battery size and motor versus prop size. The prop size used with a specific motor and 3s battery will be larger, than the same motor using a 4s battery. This will also be a topic for discussion at later date but worth knowing.
As you progress in the hobby a good investment is a power (watt) meter, it will tell you what the power output, current draw is of your motor with a specific prop size and battery etc. Its a good tool to ensure you don't burn out your gear by under specifying your equipment at the build stage.

Don't want to bog you down too much at this stage, so lets leave it there for the time being. Please feel free to ask more questions.
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Elite member
i have the b6 as well. very happy with it. i was a noobie a year ago, and it was recommended to me. i'm thinking of a second one so i can charge two batteries simultaneously, and also to have a back up.

i got mine here:

and you'll need this adapter to connect the charger tothe battery of your choice:

they also have batteries:

pick the correct connector for your esc. i would stick with 3s for now, 4s would be for more power, not more flight time.
i use this in the simple cub.


Legendary member
I am considering buying a 3rd B6 iMax charger in the New Year. I am planning to attach it permanently to my flight box which I take with me flying. This will be used with my 12 volt supply at the field for charging batteries. The other two will be permanently set up at home, with mains power for charging lipo's and placing my lipo's in store when not being used.
A good tip someone gave me was to use a car 12 volt headlamp to discharge lipo's faster. As your probably aware these B6 units tend to get hot when your discharging batteries, particularly the bigger ones. The headlamp bulb helps to discharge the battery and reduces heat impact on the discharge part of the unit.
The only key point is you need a volt meter in-between the lamp and battery to ensure you don't over drain the battery and to monitor the actual voltage drain this will ensure it doesn't reach the 3.2 volt min voltage for each cell.
I would drain the lipo to approx. 4.0 volts per cell with the lamp then use the B6 to reduce the cell voltages to the 3.8v storage level. Using the balance lead will help maintain a consistent balanced voltage across all the cells.

The Hangar

Fly harder!
I’m a huge fan of my venom pro duo, I highly recommend it but it is a bit on the pricy side at $110. As far as batteries go, I would definitely stick to 3s for starters, and I would go for Tattu, Lumineer, or Spektrum smart (G1) packs. I have nothing but good to say about those three brands.


Active member
Is this the Lipo charger I saw from the Flite Test store? I think they sell this online Amazon or eBay for $29.99 dollars. And this affects the life of the battery, not the flying time. How big is this? Lipo Balance charger.


Elite member
1 x 4 x 6 make sure the power supply is included.

it does not affect the life of the battery

flying time is determined by mah, it's a function of storage capacity


Participation Award Recipient
how you charge and store a battery does effect the usable life time (how many charge cycles, now how long an individual flight lasts).


Elite member
with power supply? same price as value hobby here, but $4.00 freight i think, unless you're over a hundred


Master member
I’m a huge fan of my venom pro duo, I highly recommend it but it is a bit on the pricy side at $110. As far as batteries go, I would definitely stick to 3s for starters, and I would go for Tattu, Lumineer, or Spektrum smart (G1) packs. I have nothing but good to say about those three brands.

That Venom is a nice charger if I ever replace my Hyperion dual that is probably the one I would buy. Nice thing about a larger output charger is faster charging times.